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Thread: Thrustmaster T.16000M FCS HOTAS official thread

  1. #1276
    Usually there's a deadzone slider under axis bind options.

  2. #1277
    Originally Posted by Scifimyth View Post (Source)
    I am working with this joystick setup and trying to get everything happy but have one problem with it. The Rocker on the front of the throttle is so oversensitive that if I do anything with the throttle, it moves the rocker and sometimes it just doesn't stop. Is there a way to set a deadzone for it or reduce the sensitivity so it can actually be used? I apologize if it has been discussed but in skimming the thread, I didn't see a mention of this problem.
    Don't have a thrustmaster, (X52pro) but assume most if not all Joysticks can be twiddled in the properties of the controller within windows control panel. (Control panel/devices and printers/Your Controller. Right click choose properties and the world is your oyster in settings!!

  3. #1278
    Case study showing improvements Nyogel 767A damping grease has made to my T.16000 and fcs. They certainly feel more premium products after application.

    https://support.newgatesimms.com/fli...ng-case-study/

  4. #1279
    Now my 2nd stick (which was a replacement) has got the yaw jerks. Starts fine and then all of a sudden, I'm off to the left a couple of degrees. I pull it back into line and it stays there for a bit and then suddenly I'm off again without even touching the stick and the light is off. I can recommend the throttle, but the joystick is a Piece of Crap.

    I'm going with a Logitech Extreme 3D Pro stick. The TWCS throttle though is well nigh perfect and I'll be keeping that. Can't recommend the stick, but definitely recommend the throttle. New stick should be here by Friday.

  5. #1280
    Originally Posted by KellyR View Post (Source)
    Now my 2nd stick (which was a replacement) has got the yaw jerks. Starts fine and then all of a sudden, I'm off to the left a couple of degrees. I pull it back into line and it stays there for a bit and then suddenly I'm off again without even touching the stick and the light is off. I can recommend the throttle, but the joystick is a Piece of Crap.

    I'm going with a Logitech Extreme 3D Pro stick. The TWCS throttle though is well nigh perfect and I'll be keeping that. Can't recommend the stick, but definitely recommend the throttle. New stick should be here by Friday.
    Yes, the same thing happened with my (replacement) stick. Thrustmaster's support on this was poor as they simply said it was out of warranty, despite it being less than a year old.

    I am going to try and clean out the potentiometer using the method provided by 3dog in post #1264 on the previous page. Early attempts failed as I wasn't able to remove the trigger pin, so enlisting the help of a friend with better tools.

    The only upside is that the stick is so cheap that using it as a consumable is sort of possible, but it's very poor on the part of TM to produce something that has such a common point of failure and not fix it. Agree about the throttle, it's great, and disappointing about the stick because other than the potentiometer it is a great stick, very accurate and fits my hand perfectly.

  6. #1281
    It's because you're supposed to use T.Flight Rudder Pedals for yaw

  7. #1282
    Originally Posted by StarLightPL View Post (Source)
    It's because you're supposed to use T.Flight Rudder Pedals for yaw
    Unacceptable. If that were the case then it shouldn't have a twist function on the stick.

    To Faded Glory, I won't open the thing up. I'm not an engineer or a repair girl. Unless you are talking about large quantity preparation of food, I'm an end consumer. End consumers consume and use the product. They don't manufacture or repair those products.

  8. #1283
    Mine developed the same problem along with a flaky trigger. I replaced it with a VKB Gladiator Mk.II which should have much better build quality, and uses a contactless sensor for twist rather than a cheap pot. AFAIK it's the only "high end budget" stick. If you're looking for a replacement that won't break the bank I'd suggest it.

  9. #1284
    The trigger is easily fixed without opening it up by squirting some contact cleaner into the underlying button's seating (with the stick lying on its back) and working it a bit.

  10. #1285
    Originally Posted by VerticalBlank View Post (Source)
    The trigger is easily fixed without opening it up by squirting some contact cleaner into the underlying button's seating (with the stick lying on its back) and working it a bit.
    Yup, I've done that, but unfortunately it doesn't work so well anymore. Buys me a few days before I have to do it again at this point. Really shouldn't have to do it so often either way, and it's clearly a really cheap switch.

  11. #1286
    Looks like my TFlight is slowly dying. Developed ghost rotation inputs and yaw is off center. Have 16000m fcs arriving tomorrow. Greatly appreciated all of your inputs in this thread, will try magnet modification since I'm used to have throttle in full range. I had a look at edrefcard list, would be grateful if anyone that moved from Tflight to 16000m fcs with VR share their mapping link. It would be a good start, since on TFlight i had two modifier keys and still was lacking few mappings, so I had to use keyboard. Mostly using faoff.
    Another thing. I didn't have forward/reverse thrusters, and I saw in this thread that some of you are using rudder for this. (On TFlight I had them as Vertical thrusters). Where do you see for/rev thrusters beeing important?

  12. #1287
    Originally Posted by Iceeye View Post (Source)
    Where do you see for/rev thrusters beeing important?
    I find it gives me much of the flexibility of a two-stick setup. In some close quarters situations such as cargo scooping and cosying up to data points on megaships, zeroing the throttle and using the paddles for fore-and-aft can be easier because they centre on release.

    Conversely I have the landing gear override set up so that the paddles do vertical and the mini-stick does fore-and-aft and lateral. I find that easiest for lining up on the landing pad, plus on high-G worlds it is absolutely vital to have the vertical axis isolated so you don't use it by accicdent. HTH

    With headlook: https://edrefcard.info/binds/ygjfua
    Without headlook: https://edrefcard.info/binds/skekfb

  13. #1288
    Originally Posted by VerticalBlank View Post (Source)
    I find it gives me much of the flexibility of a two-stick setup. In some close quarters situations such as cargo scooping and cosying up to data points on megaships, zeroing the throttle and using the paddles for fore-and-aft can be easier because they centre on release.

    Conversely I have the landing gear override set up so that the paddles do vertical and the mini-stick does fore-and-aft and lateral. I find that easiest for lining up on the landing pad, plus on high-G worlds it is absolutely vital to have the vertical axis isolated so you don't use it by accicdent. HTH

    With headlook: https://edrefcard.info/binds/ygjfua
    Without headlook: https://edrefcard.info/binds/skekfb
    I fly 100% FA-OFF and use Zeroed Throttle with paddles for for/rev, when not in supper-cruise.
    I find this much better than throttle for fa-off, Because of the centre function it aids with the small amounts needed to counter vector.

  14. #1289
    Originally Posted by cmdrrdmc View Post (Source)
    Mine developed the same problem along with a flaky trigger. I replaced it with a VKB Gladiator Mk.II which should have much better build quality, and uses a contactless sensor for twist rather than a cheap pot. AFAIK it's the only "high end budget" stick. If you're looking for a replacement that won't break the bank I'd suggest it.
    I looked up that VKB Gladiator Mk II. That's one whale of a flight stick. Almost is a HOTAS in and of itself. 4 Axes and 29 logical buttons. WOW!!! Plus it can be locked in safe mode with just a flip of the thumb to unlock it. I could still use one more axis, but I guess I could bind a couple of the hat buttons with the shift for the Z axis on the map. Guess I could do the same with the FSS tuning, but I don't normally use that function. I'm a fighter and trader, not an explorer.

    And $99 USD is a great price for the precision that the MaRS sensors provide.

  15. #1290
    Originally Posted by KellyR View Post (Source)
    I looked up that VKB Gladiator Mk II. That's one whale of a flight stick. Almost is a HOTAS in and of itself. 4 Axes and 29 logical buttons. WOW!!! Plus it can be locked in safe mode with just a flip of the thumb to unlock it. I could still use one more axis, but I guess I could bind a couple of the hat buttons with the shift for the Z axis on the map. Guess I could do the same with the FSS tuning, but I don't normally use that function. I'm a fighter and trader, not an explorer.

    And $99 USD is a great price for the precision that the MaRS sensors provide.
    Looks like a great aviation stick, and is tantalisingly close to being a standalone 6DOF stick for space sims, but lacks the left-hand analog mini-stick and paddle axis to be fully 6DOF.

    Pretty impressive though.