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Thread: Thrustmaster T.16000M FCS HOTAS official thread

  1. #1021
    Originally Posted by GunnerBill View Post (Source)
    We'll it's been three weeks and well over a hundred hours of game play.

    I am happy to report no problems with the grease/throttle.

    To apply I removed the bottom of the throttle and loosened off and removed the rails from the inside. That sounds fiddly but I suspect if you are even in this thread you've probably got the skills to manage this successfully (small dish to keep screws in is essential!). I didn't use a lot of grease just enough to put a film over the rails.

    The effect on throttle control was a massive positive, no judder and a smooth uniform resistance which allows very small and accurate throttle adjustments.

    You can also make quick and extreme throttle movements with ease, such as while interdicting and if anything during these rapid movements the grease seems to lighten up.

    All for less than £10 delivered.

    I used this one: http://www.evelostore.com/en/10836-s...um-grease-150g. Perfect too, very smooth throttle now.

  2. #1022
    Greetings, I'm searching for technical info about potentiometer used for Yaw in T16000 Thrustmaster joystick. Anyone can help? (imo the biggest fail piece in otherwise good hardware) All others included TWCS throttle works well.

  3. #1023
    Don't bother asking TM, Customer Service has 'no access to technical data'. If you do find info please share as I was trying to find out what sort of plastic was used in the internals and eventually got squat and gave up.

  4. #1024
    You could try asking in https://www.reddit.com/r/hotas/ - maybe someone there knows.

  5. #1025
    Best and most common bindings?

  6. #1026
    Originally Posted by Lecitron View Post (Source)
    Best and most common bindings?
    Best is usually the one you made yourself! Easiest to remember too.

    Mine and several others are at https://edrefcard.info/list - lots of examples to get you started.

    Mine uses two modifiers, which isn't to everyone's liking, but it does thus avoid having anything important on the stick's base buttons. Plus it has a landing override that isolates the vertical thrusters onto the paddles, for those high G worlds, and important combat functions are all on separate hat switches. Enjoy!

  7. #1027
    Originally Posted by VerticalBlank View Post (Source)
    Best is usually the one you made yourself! Easiest to remember too.

    Mine and several others are at https://edrefcard.info/list - lots of examples to get you started.

    Mine uses two modifiers, which isn't to everyone's liking, but it does thus avoid having anything important on the stick's base buttons. Plus it has a landing override that isolates the vertical thrusters onto the paddles, for those high G worlds, and important combat functions are all on separate hat switches. Enjoy!
    Thanks! I was seeing your bindings and I prefer one with no modifiers. Thanks again.

  8. #1028
    Hi everyone,

    I'm writing this mostly to complain and calm down as well as gather a bit of information. So here is the story:
    I bought the T.16000m FCS HOTAS System in the beginning of October. Coming from the X T-Flight Stick this hardware was awesome and the precision made it possible to use FA off and fixed weapons at last. Also with the Target software I could manage my power distribution much better and I had a shortcut for automatic docking request and many things more. All very good.

    After about 3-4 weeks I noticed my ship yawing to the left a lot - A glance at the device analyzer (which is included in the target script editor) confirmed my fear: There was crazy ghosting on the z-axis when I didn't touch the stick.
    So I made a recording of the ghosting and sent the stick back to Amazon for replacement - according to them I got a completely different/new HOTAS. I plugged in the new one and all was okay again.

    Now we are again about 4 weeks in and the ghosting reappeared again, becoming worse every day. At first I thought that this is unlikely...maybe the USB port on my MB is broken or at least there is not enough power or something. However I tried out different ports (USB 2.0 and 3.0) and it's all the same, also my MB is relatively new and not really a cheap one (if that matters at all).

    So here is the question:
    Is there a general problem with the z-axis of this model or am I just really unlucky? I mean, I went for thrustmaster to get better quality than SAITEK product, but if that's the case, maybe I'll have to go for the X52pro - which I don't want to, as I really like this stick apart from this problem. I'm not really sure what to do atm. Get a replacement again from Amazon, or just refund it and get a completely different one?


    One last thing for error description:
    The ghosting appears only if I don't move the stick. As soon as there is any input everything seems to be working correct...until I let go of the stick again. So I noticed the problem during exploration (which I have been doing for the last 2 month) I don't know how much of a problem it is during fighting etc.

    What is your take on the issue?

  9. #1029
    Originally Posted by CMDR TCW|Jocki View Post (Source)
    Hi everyone,

    ...

    What is your take on the issue?
    I had similar experience with Logitech Extreme 3D Pro.
    Small(ish) deadzone for Z-axis in game and a 'calibration move set' in the beginning of each session helped a long time. But eventually I went through 3 of those sticks and had to warranty replace or discard them because of incurable Z-axis ghost input, most likely to be those tiny potentiometers developing faults. I also noticed that every time the fault appeared sooner, so the parts quality seems to have become worse recently.

    So, I got fed up with that and bought T.16000m FCS, have been using it for 7 months and still happy with it.
    I do have a small deadzone on Z-axis as a precaution though, as that axis isn't hall sensor controlled but a regular potentiometer in the FCS too.

  10. #1030
    Originally Posted by Zieman View Post (Source)
    I do have a small deadzone on Z-axis as a precaution though, as that axis isn't hall sensor controlled but a regular potentiometer in the FCS too.
    Yeah, deadzone also was the first solution that came to mind, but the ghosting has absolutely random values from 0-100% to the left, so deadzone won't help much here. Also because of this, I don't think the problem is with the potentionmeter...

  11. #1031
    Originally Posted by CMDR TCW|Jocki View Post (Source)
    Yeah, deadzone also was the first solution that came to mind, but the ghosting has absolutely random values from 0-100% to the left, so deadzone won't help much here. Also because of this, I don't think the problem is with the potentionmeter...
    It could well be the wiring that's too short/tight and thus chafing somewhere, developing insulation faults and unintended contact spikes.
    Could also be some dust inside the pot, or a combination of these.

  12. #1032
    If you read through this: https://www.reddit.com/r/hotas/comme...potentiometer/ you will find asap why. Thrustmaster deliberately used cheap potenciometer for z axis ... and it seems like fcs have even poorer quality as previous t16000m (I have them both so can compare).

  13. #1033
    Hmm.. My FCS is almost one year old and has 600 hours in, but so far yaw works as it should work. No funny business here, yet..

  14. #1034
    Originally Posted by Deadmaxx View Post (Source)
    Has anybody else run into this problem?

    I've noticed just recently that my main trigger button on the flight stick isn't responding quite well. I'll hear it 'click' but sometimes it doesn't do anything until I add more pressure and then it will work. So as of now it's kinda working, just paranoid that it's just going to stop working altogether. Is there something I could possibly fix myself or should I contact Thrustmaster for a replacement? Any help would be great. Thanks
    Mine has started to do this now. Oddly, it's intermittent.

  15. #1035

    Broken throttle

    Hello

    I got my new TM FCS, stick and throttle in the mail today.

    I connected it up and tested out the stick, and the ship start to fly away by itself.
    Checked the binding and found out it is the X axis on the throttle that i use to thrust with that are very off.
    To get the ship to stand still, i have to apply much Deadzone as seen in this picture:


    When that much Deadzone i can feel that i have to move the thrust stick so much compare to default that it bothers me.

    Do anyone else have this ?

    Best regards
    CMD Nortonis

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