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Thread: Thrustmaster T.16000M FCS HOTAS official thread

  1. #1186
    Hi,i have some questions, my joystick is first T.16000M model with green light, i read some comments here about new T.16000M and i notice few comments about yaw (rudder) potentiometer from the new joystick, this potentiometer is the same quality with one from first T.16000M model with green light or is worst? i notice some users have problemes with yaw potentiometer from the new joystick,i have tested 15 minutes a used T.16000M FCS joystick from a friend and i notice the base buttons are smaller and when i press them i hear a loud plastic clicking noise,on a new t16000m fcs do you hear that loud plastic clicking noise when you press base buttons?Thanks

  2. #1187
    My T.16000M FCS has fairly quiet buttons, that's about the only good thing about it.

    I think it's a terrible piece of hardware. It looks the part, but how on earth something like this gets through Quality Control is beyond me. What with the horrible sticky throttle and the well known Potentiometer problem it just defies belief.

    I'm going through the process now of getting mine sent back and replaced. I just hope the quality has improved on the replacement when it arrives.

    Thrustmaster can make a sturdy and reliable cheap stick like the T.Flight Hotas-X that never goes wrong, and then they churn out rubbish like the 16000M and charge 3 times the price. Incredible.

    Sorry, rant over!

  3. #1188
    Originally Posted by geoweb35 View Post (Source)
    Hi,i have some questions, my joystick is first T.16000M model with green light, i read some comments here about new T.16000M and i notice few comments about yaw (rudder) potentiometer from the new joystick, this potentiometer is the same quality with one from first T.16000M model with green light or is worst? i notice some users have problemes with yaw potentiometer from the new joystick,i have tested 15 minutes a used T.16000M FCS joystick from a friend and i notice the base buttons are smaller and when i press them i hear a loud plastic clicking noise,on a new t16000m fcs do you hear that loud plastic clicking noise when you press base buttons?Thanks
    First version of T16000 Yaw potentiometer have the same dimensions. I had disassembled both these sticks (old and new) and imo 1st version potentiometer looks as better quality. But to be honest ... both are poor and if I did not maintained these myself, I needed sent this joystick to maintenance every few months. ... It's really sad bcs it is just only one thing which is crap on this hardware ... I use FCS hotas and everything works smoothly all the time .. except Yaw.

  4. #1189
    Originally Posted by Faded Glory View Post (Source)
    If I were you, I would start the support ticket now... The calibration utility (I presume you are referring to the one that I posted in this thread) is only a temporary fix, at least it was for me, lasted a few weeks, and then the drift returned. It sounds like the poster above had a pretty reasonable support experience, it took me over two months to get my replacement (direct from Thrustmaster).
    You were right, it lasted about a week after recalibrating.

    Received my replacement 16000M on Monday. I had a very easy exchange experience with the company I bought it from. I emailed Thrustmaster support to explain the problem, they told me to contact my supplier, so I did. They then asked me to forward the email from Thrustmaster, and then they arranged collection/replacement within 3 days. Result!

    The new throttle is maybe a little smoother than the old one, all is well again. Here's hoping this one goes the distance :-)

  5. #1190
    Hey guys,

    this is not a direct Elite problem but since some here have that throttle and TM seems not to have a proper product forum, maybe someone has an idea. I have the TWCS stand alone, but should be the exact same thing as the FCS.

    So i have an analog axis input problem that stems from the TWCS port connector for the compatible TM TFRP rudder pedals. If you don't have those installed and plugged into that port on the TWCS, the TWCS driver still registers a 50% input for the TFRP rudder axis. Some games, like Arma 3 and HITMAN 2016 for instance, register this constant input. HITMAN 2016 outright refuses to work properly with mouse and keyboard and thinks i've got an Xbox controller plugged in. Arma 3 on the otherhand, adds the TFRP rudder axis input to each keybind i want to remap cause it registers it as being pressed (although this is obviously a false positiv since i don't have the TFRP let alone have it plugged into the port).

    So once i finally tracked this input signal problem down to that TWCS port or better the false rudder pedal input signal, i set up a TARGET profile for the TWCS which does not contain the rudder pedal axes at all. Yep, that sufficiently solves my issue. But i kinda don't like having a TARGET profile running at all. I would have to spend a good deal of time remapping everything for multiple games. Is there any other way i might be able to disable this TFRP rudder pedal input signal without TARGET?

  6. #1191
    Originally Posted by Martind Forlon View Post (Source)
    First version of T16000 Yaw potentiometer have the same dimensions. I had disassembled both these sticks (old and new) and imo 1st version potentiometer looks as better quality. But to be honest ... both are poor and if I did not maintained these myself, I needed sent this joystick to maintenance every few months. ... It's really sad bcs it is just only one thing which is crap on this hardware ... I use FCS hotas and everything works smoothly all the time .. except Yaw.
    Anyone know where to buy these potentiometers? I now have 1 joystick that works fine except for a broken potentiometer.

  7. #1192
    Originally Posted by sc_neo View Post (Source)
    Hey guys,

    this is not a direct Elite problem but since some here have that throttle and TM seems not to have a proper product forum, maybe someone has an idea. I have the TWCS stand alone, but should be the exact same thing as the FCS.

    So i have an analog axis input problem that stems from the TWCS port connector for the compatible TM TFRP rudder pedals. If you don't have those installed and plugged into that port on the TWCS, the TWCS driver still registers a 50% input for the TFRP rudder axis. Some games, like Arma 3 and HITMAN 2016 for instance, register this constant input. HITMAN 2016 outright refuses to work properly with mouse and keyboard and thinks i've got an Xbox controller plugged in. Arma 3 on the otherhand, adds the TFRP rudder axis input to each keybind i want to remap cause it registers it as being pressed (although this is obviously a false positiv since i don't have the TFRP let alone have it plugged into the port).

    So once i finally tracked this input signal problem down to that TWCS port or better the false rudder pedal input signal, i set up a TARGET profile for the TWCS which does not contain the rudder pedal axes at all. Yep, that sufficiently solves my issue. But i kinda don't like having a TARGET profile running at all. I would have to spend a good deal of time remapping everything for multiple games. Is there any other way i might be able to disable this TFRP rudder pedal input signal without TARGET?
    EDIT:
    So what eventually worked for me; the tool DIView (http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index....age=page&id=12 or just google it) allows to view all axes of all game controllers and change saturation, deadzone and min/centre/max values for each axes of each device individually. It automatically saves those changed values in the windows registry for each device, thus you don't need to start or run DIView or a service each time you want to play.

    For my particular problem: both TFRP toe brakes reportead at 100% and with some fiddling around i could get them to report at 50% or as neutral. I actually had to set them to its max value so they report at 50%. Quite goofy! Anyway, neither Arma 3 nor HITMAN take offense anymore.

  8. #1193
    Originally Posted by Bruski View Post (Source)
    Anyone know where to buy these potentiometers? I now have 1 joystick that works fine except for a broken potentiometer.
    https://www.reddit.com/r/hotas/comme...potentiometer/ here is posted some source, but I suggest first try clean this small pot, how to open it is in link. I carefully cleaned this my and its few months when it works good again.

  9. #1194
    Originally Posted by Martind Forlon View Post (Source)
    https://www.reddit.com/r/hotas/comme...potentiometer/ here is posted some source, but I suggest first try clean this small pot, how to open it is in link. I carefully cleaned this my and its few months when it works good again.
    I can confirm that cleaning the potentiometer can help a bit. I about a week without ghost yaw before the problem started again.

  10. #1195
    Hyped up and rushed out and too many corners cut. The game? The Hotas? What do you honestly think?

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