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Thread: The C-Pod: A DIY Command seat (build log)

  1. #31
    The durability is actually pretty decent as it's designed to be drawn on with chalk. I've always bought mine from here:

    http://www.mdpsupplies.co.uk/blackboard.asp

    I've used metres and metres of the stuff


  2. #32
    Originally Posted by ThereIs0nly0ne View Post (Source)
    Thanks again for the responses, it really helps!

    @ijam, I'm a relative novice when it comes to woodworking so thanks for the links. The router is my biggest investment and it is treated with a great deal of respect. I have one with a 1/2 inch collet. It's the Trend T5:
    That's a well respected model from what I hear - I've been thinking of getting a smaller one like that myself as my current router (Dewalt DW625EK) is heavy and I don't always need that much power.

    I'm (very) far from expert at woodworking, but do let me know if you need something. I don't know if you already do this, but using a template trim (bearing) cutter in a router is a very powerful tool - if you need to match sides of the cabinet or make two curves the same for example. I use them all the time to ensure I end up with identical parts.

    The pocket hole kit is less useful for MDF than plywood as the screws will not hold well and it splits/tears easily. So ignore that unless you change your mind on material!

    Finally, watch that MDF dust - it's seriously nasty stuff. Be sure to wear a good quality mask, especially when using the router as the dust is fine enough to be highly carcinogenic even without all the formaldehyde.

    Really looking forward to watching your build!

    cheers

    Ian

  3. #33
    Originally Posted by ThereIs0nly0ne View Post (Source)
    The durability is actually pretty decent as it's designed to be drawn on with chalk. I've always bought mine from here:

    http://www.mdpsupplies.co.uk/blackboard.asp

    I've used metres and metres of the stuff

    Excellent, I'll make a note of that for when the perfect storm of enough time, money and space happens

  4. #34
    @ijam - yes, the flush trim router bit is a godsend. I don't know what I'd do without it! I always wear a mask when cutting MDF - as you say, it's nasty stuff.

    @ZZleeZZ, no problem and I hear a storm brewing on the horizon

  5. #35
    Very nice design on the racing set up. I can't wait to see what you come up with for Elite.

  6. #36
    Out of curiosity, why C Pod? is it going to be shaped like a letter 'C' with monitors hanging from the top of the 'C' or?.................

    Apologies for the question but as I said I am curious

    Regards

  7. #37
    Is it a play on words from "seed pod"

  8. #38
    I like to give my project names but this is more of a placeholder really.

    My previous 2 racing rigs were the r-pod (racing pod) mk1 and mk2. The c-pod is short for command pod. I may consider a different name in the future but will be using this for now.

  9. #39
    If you keep a comprehensive set of build plans, you could probably earn a good few quid from quite a few of us here too.
    Looking forward to seeing what design route you go down.

  10. #40

    Lightbulb

    Your previous work is amazing!

    Looking forward to seeing your progress on this project.

  11. #41
    @Demonmaker, I'm fully intending to do that

    @Fenris, thanks. I hope this won't disappoint!


    I've been hunting around for pictures to get a better view of things and found a nice video capturing the seats and took some screen grabs. I'm figuring that integrating the HOTAS into side panels whould make thinks a little too bulky and I didn't want it to end up looking like this:



    This is the seat without the HOTAS. It looks relatively streamlined by comparison:



    Looking at the screen grabs, I can see that the throttle and stick are actually mounted on plates / shelves. This got me thinking that I could do something similar and design it so that it includes hardpoints - this will alow the seat to be customised to accommodate various HOTAS configurations from different manufacturers. Obviously, given the dimensions of the warthog, the shelves / plates will be nothing like as thin (they will need to be about 75mm deep) but it will be possible to construct some nicely shaped boxes to mount them in. These can then slot into the sides of the chair and effectively make them removable. The centre console could also be used for an input device of some description:



    I'm actually considering using this for an office chair so the ability to remove peripherals would be very beneficial. This may not provide enough height to include the suspended pedals (and I don't want to compromise on that) so I will see how things go.

  12. #42
    Originally Posted by ThereIs0nly0ne View Post (Source)
    @Demonmaker, I'm fully intending to do that

    .
    Dibbs on the 1st set of plans

  13. #43
    Mrs wont like this thread at all.

    Subbed.

  14. #44

    Thumbs up Awesome

    I love this kind of dedication to a game and have been fascinated by previous build threads of "game seats." I'll be following this one for sure.

    At most I might make some sort of plank to take my new Saitek X52 Pro, as I'm finding my arms and wrists get a bit sore after a while with them up on the desk.

    Your finished work looks great! I much envy your skills and the time to work on it. As a final point.. It might almost be a shame to get an Oculus Rift as you won't be able to see your own handiwork once you 'strap in'

  15. #45
    @Armante, a 'plank' really is an effective solution!

    Regarding not being able to see the seat - a shame indeed, but I'll know I'm sitting in it.

    Other people will really be able to see the full extent of my sadness, particularly as my games room is at the front of the house in full view of passers by.

    I wonder what sort of example I'm setting to my kids sometimes ...

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