I've toyed with the idea of just buying one of those USB extension numeric keypads and using the PCB with my own switches. That way I get an extra 22 inputs for all the stuff that can't easily be mapped to my HotasX for about a fiver. Much cheaper than the prebuilt switch boards, or even an arduino.
Community Event / Creation DIY Controller and Throttle
- Thread starter Cataclysm72
- Start date
Never got into machining sticks - there are great ones on the market. (yes I'm still running a Logitech 3D Pro)
But custom button boxes - Oh yeah there's a time sink.
Still using the first one I built when I started Flight simming in 2009.
It's based on a $10 au USB keyboard:
The two pods are linked with a 25 pin printer cable.
Cool thing about using a keyboard is I get to have escape, enter and space on there as well as Ctrl, Alt and Shift, and three lights (Scroll Lock, Caps Lock and Num Lock). I've got things mapped like the Track IR recentering key, So usually I don't need the keybaord.
But custom button boxes - Oh yeah there's a time sink.
Still using the first one I built when I started Flight simming in 2009.
It's based on a $10 au USB keyboard:
The two pods are linked with a 25 pin printer cable.
Cool thing about using a keyboard is I get to have escape, enter and space on there as well as Ctrl, Alt and Shift, and three lights (Scroll Lock, Caps Lock and Num Lock). I've got things mapped like the Track IR recentering key, So usually I don't need the keybaord.
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I see you weren’t the only one with that plan. It is a good plan, but there’s no way to get analog sticks working if you go that route. And putting 32 switches on an Arduino can be cheaper than $5, because with a little searching you can get an bare Arduino Mini for less than $3 on Ebay.
Hmm. Palm rest, there’s a thought.Love the symmetrical design...I'm amazed that there isn't a HOTAS out there like that, it would be so much more comfortable. Although, I think I would want a larger palm rest on both sticks
In the meantime i’m learning to hand stitch leather.
oh man, that was fun! The leather work looks awesome and my updated grip design came out very stylish. I needs some time for reassembly but i'll share a few pictures asap.
I've stitched leather, how are your hands?
I've gutted the stick on my Th X, so now have the Throttle (intact) and the guts of the stick. Will pop into Maplin tomorrow and pick up a hobby box, intend to put the guts in the hobby box which will give me all the buttons of the Stick, plus 3 spare pots. Not sure if I'll jerry-rig it to the Throttle or have it as a detached unit, but it means I retain all the controls of the TH X and lose the pain of having the Throttle and Stick separated by not enough cable.
Stick in use now is the Logi 3d Extreme, which is a better stick imo, and now that's going to get the PS4 mod; quite fun this
A good idea to have them. Flying with FA off is as hard to control as driving a manual clutch, gated stick shift. Man, the steel ones are terrible.
Big needles and using a plier to grab/pull the needle helped tremendously. My hands feel ok. A little hand lotion after work does wonders. About the stitching pattern: I searched on YouTube how to do it. The thing with ‘pulling the thread along with the needle' (to stop the needle from going through the thread) was an absolute eye-opener.I’ve stitched leather, how are your hands?
Sounds like a solid plan.I've gutted the stick on my Th X, so now have the Throttle (intact) and the guts of the stick. Will pop into Maplin tomorrow and pick up a hobby box, intend to put the guts in the hobby box which will give me all the buttons of the Stick, plus 3 spare pots. Not sure if I'll jerry-rig it to the Throttle or have it as a detached unit, but it means I retain all the controls of the TH X and lose the pain of having the Throttle and Stick separated by not enough cable.
Stick in use now is the Logi 3d Extreme, which is a better stick imo, and now that’s going to get the PS4 mod; quite fun this
Hi guys, me again..
I’ve finished stitching up the leather and made some new parts to tuck the edges away. It totally looks awesome I think! While i’m slowly reaching what I had in mind I can move towards the housing and the buttons for the console. To battle the potmeter anxiety i’ve ordered some affordable hall effect sensors, magnets and ball bearings and the lighting plan is almost complete. I wish I could hook everything up so I can start playing again but I’m waiting on some IO expansion chips. I simply do not have enough IO ports on the Arduino micro to hook it all up.
I’ve finished stitching up the leather and made some new parts to tuck the edges away. It totally looks awesome I think! While i’m slowly reaching what I had in mind I can move towards the housing and the buttons for the console. To battle the potmeter anxiety i’ve ordered some affordable hall effect sensors, magnets and ball bearings and the lighting plan is almost complete. I wish I could hook everything up so I can start playing again but I’m waiting on some IO expansion chips. I simply do not have enough IO ports on the Arduino micro to hook it all up.
boy i'm excited as a little kid. Yesterday i finished the CAD drawings for the housing, i'm going to the local hackerspace to do some laser cutting later today or perhaps tomorrow (depends on my energy levels)! i've also ordered a batch of recessed stainless torx bolts to fix everything together. I can't wait to see how it will look.
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Your work is truly amazing. I like your planned housing. Are you putting three extra switches on each base? I put the extra controls on the inboard side of the hotas like in your drawing but I'm regretting it now. It feels more natural to fiddle with stuff on the outboard side. But like I said earlier, amazing.
Really cool OP, i just bought a cheap t flight x, works great but feels cheap, and i am sure the stick is creaking where it's joined together down the shaft.
I was wondering if there was some sort of rubber solution i could "paint" on the shaft and throttle, or is it best to use some sort of tape, like with bicycle handle bars.
edit: maybe something like this i can paint on.
http://www.frost.co.uk/plasti-dip-the-multi-purpose-rubber-coating
I was wondering if there was some sort of rubber solution i could "paint" on the shaft and throttle, or is it best to use some sort of tape, like with bicycle handle bars.
edit: maybe something like this i can paint on.
http://www.frost.co.uk/plasti-dip-the-multi-purpose-rubber-coating
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My original design DID in fact have them on the outside for the exact same reasons. However I decided to move the sticks a little outward so that more room remains on the inside of the controls, allowing you wrist to rest on the outside just next to the controls without having any switches in the way. I wasn’t really decided on the matter so I stopped pondering about it and just try a settings. You know I can just flip the plate over or cut a new one so it doesn’t really have a big impact on the design.
I tried wrapping the grips with bicycle steer wrap (no idea what the official name is), but this didn’t feel very well. I’ve also considered the plastidip you mention but I eventually decided to go for 100% leather.
I've found a possible solution for my dodgy potmeter configuration: allegro a1302 hall effect sensor. Very cheap, widely available and all it needs is a few tiny magnets and some rotating hardware (ie. bearing)
http://www.allegromicro.com/~/media/Files/Datasheets/A1301-2-Datasheet.ashx
When they arrive in a few weeks, i will start the upgrade, it should be a bolt-in replacement. Meanwhile i will continue with the housing and lighting.
This commander needs to get back in the seat asap.
http://www.allegromicro.com/~/media/Files/Datasheets/A1301-2-Datasheet.ashx
When they arrive in a few weeks, i will start the upgrade, it should be a bolt-in replacement. Meanwhile i will continue with the housing and lighting.
This commander needs to get back in the seat asap.
Cat, I really need to un-sub man....hall effect sensors...
http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/3225807/all/DIY_hall_sensor_... so easy!
Just seenyour leather-work...I must admit, and I know it's cheesy, but I'd be very tempted to look at branding the Elite badge and my CMDR name into it; please don't judge me
http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/3225807/all/DIY_hall_sensor_... so easy!
Just seenyour leather-work...I must admit, and I know it's cheesy, but I'd be very tempted to look at branding the Elite badge and my CMDR name into it; please don't judge me
Jup, that's the hack i found! very coincidental i say.Cat, I really need to un-sub man....hall effect sensors...
http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/3225807/all/DIY_hall_sensor_... so easy!
Just seenyour leather-work...I must admit, and I know it's cheesy, but I'd be very tempted to look at branding the Elite badge and my CMDR name into it; please don't judge me
Assembly of the first prototype completed. I hope you like it. They look big, but they are actually 4cm smaller than my Saitek X45 set. Instead of going too deep on the design i made a quick solution to get a feel for how things would look and feel when assembly. They are now sitting on the desk but they are intended to be mounted next to a seat. Hopefully I can find an old racing seat to turn it into a nice playseat!
These are empty shells, there is no electronics inside unfortunately. I hope to get that stuff done in the coming weeks so I can get back to playing!