Hotas one yaw twitch

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I strip my X56 down for cleaning and lubrication
I used to do the same with my X55 (which is now collecting dust after moving to the Xbox :().

... because I've always built my own PC's, repaired my own cars and motorbikes...
I was a computer service engineer back when you fixed them with a soldering iron and a box of chips :) - this was before the advent of the PC.

Trouble is, you realise, by opening the unit up, you've probably invalidated the warranty
For me, warranty claims are for when it doesn't work out of the box, or a complete failure of all functions. I'm comfortable enough dealing with minor mechanical problems myself, and even "improving" things on occasion. Once I've owned something for awhile, it becomes a case of "the process and time involved in returning it" vs "fiddling with it myself".
 
I used to do the same with my X55 (which is now collecting dust after moving to the Xbox :().


I was a computer service engineer back when you fixed them with a soldering iron and a box of chips :) - this was before the advent of the PC.


For me, warranty claims are for when it doesn't work out of the box, or a complete failure of all functions. I'm comfortable enough dealing with minor mechanical problems myself, and even "improving" things on occasion. Once I've owned something for awhile, it becomes a case of "the process and time involved in returning it" vs "fiddling with it myself".

I started fiddling back on the big box Amiga's soldering replacement crystals in to make it go faster :)

That over greasing of the throttle sliders on the X55/56 was a real pain when I first got it connected up. Had to strip the throttle down and scrape the gunk off so I could move the damned thing without resorting to a hammer or nailing it to my desk...

Besides that, I had a yaw offset right out of the box caused by a sticking pin on the stick/base connector plug..always yawed 27° to the left which was big enough an error I couldn't software it out...rather than return it, I just flicked the pin with a needle and lubricated the pins...sorted.
 
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I started fiddling back on the big box Amiga's soldering replacement crystals in to make it go faster :)

Them were the days - I also have fond memories of replacing magnetic core memory elements in various mainframe-y type systems.

But back on topic (sort of) - most mechanical devices like a hotas aren't that difficult to tweak - the only problem I found with the Thrustmaster in this case was that the joystick handle was four interlocking plastic pieces that you had to kind of hold together before you could starting putting the screws back in.

I'd prefer to use the Rhino, very solid engineering, but that was the price I paid moving to the Xbox. Maybe one day, MS will open up to more USB devices, and I can get whatever the current equivalent is (although I'm not sure if Logitech will re-engineer down the line, and change what I like about the Saitek version).
 
but that was the price I paid moving to the Xbox. Maybe one day, MS will open up to more USB devices, and I can get whatever the current equivalent is (although I'm not sure if Logitech will re-engineer down the line, and change what I like about the Saitek version).
Know what you are talking about; I started gaming with Xbox and once addicted to ED, started looking into ED PC for the Warthog/VR immersion. Just opened and started working the climb to King/Admiral before investing in a new simpit. I'm tracking MS's promises to open Xbox to USB devices, even added a keyboard to my HOTAS/TFRP setup. So far not much can be done with keyboard except what was possible with a chatpad, but hope that will change with an update sooner rather than later. Most likely will happen right after I invest $5K to do VR.

Anywho, look forward to getting past the learning curve and escaping the dependency on a warranty to fix any Thrustmaster HOTAS One yaw twitch; had to reconnect mine three times yesterday to get the USB to recognize it correctly. Apparently, on rare occasion during start-up and selecting the HOTAS/TFRP control device, it misses the throttle and/or picks up the yaw to right bug. I've learned that if I jump into a training session (challenging scenarios) I can test the HOTAS before playing ED. Usually works the first time, but have had to clear the cache once and reset the USB ports to get the HOTAS to be recognized and recalibrate itself. Appreciate your detail on putting the handle back together, this forum is great source of information once you know how to search effectively. o7 Cmdr, fly fast and be dangerous!
 
Well this is interesting and reassuring its not just me. Mine started doing this just the other day, guess I'll keep an eye on it and see if it gets any worse.
 
IT IS DONE!
With trembling hands I cut the cord and sent off the appropriate pic's to TM. I will report to all of you on TMs response time

Well this is interesting and reassuring its not just me. Mine started doing this just the other day, guess I'll keep an eye on it and see if it gets any worse.
If it's anything like mine, it will and swiftly.
Started on mine with a slight twitch, within a few days it was pitching a fit if I looked at it
 
After I received my replacement I, then fixed the cut cable with a USB connector. Got the old one back into commision still with yaw drift to the left....I've yet to get around to dismantling it to see if I can fix it.

So finally got around to opening the joystick (the top bit) a week ago, found the cable loom was routed badly, and a bit stressed. Rerouted it, bolted everything back together - no sign of the twitch since.

Total time to fix - 10 minutes :) if there had been damage to the cable loom, I would have sent it off for replacement.

Hopefully it'll be the same fix, although I'm sure read some where someone else just blew the dust out to get it working properly again. I'll try and take photos and post when I do it.
 
After I received my replacement I, then fixed the cut cable with a USB connector. Got the old one back into commision still with yaw drift to the left....I've yet to get around to dismantling it to see if I can fix it.



Hopefully it'll be the same fix, although I'm sure read some where someone else just blew the dust out to get it working properly again. I'll try and take photos and post when I do it.
Which usb connector did you use? Since it's now officially broken, I was going to give it a go, might try extending the link cable as well
 
Which usb connector did you use? Since it's now officially broken, I was going to give it a go, might try extending the link cable as well

use a well know auction site ....DIY Solderable USB Type A Connectors - 4 Pin Male & Female Connectors - 11 Types

This is the ifixit guide for the PS4 version of our HOTAS but it's the same for XBox One version

https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Thrustmaster+T+Flight+Hotas+4+Trigger+Replacement/99428


I took the handle apart on mine (image from site above) blew on the Potentiometer on the top of the white shaft and tried to give the blue grey white cables that run from it a bit more slack then put it all back together.

And the Drift is gone ! :D - I'd say this is very easy to do...just keep an eye on the metal spring clip and make sure it goes back into position otherwise it will not recenter after twisting.

jGjPlVEEElvCJncT.large
 
use a well know auction site ....DIY Solderable USB Type A Connectors - 4 Pin Male & Female Connectors - 11 Types

Thanks for the detail; went to Amazon bought some USBs, a soldering iron and station accessories--will practice, then see if I can get the additional separation between throttle and HOTAS. Appreciate all who contributed to this thread. o7 Cmdrs, fly fast and be dangerous.
 
Throttle & Stick Separation

Thanks for the detail; went to Amazon bought some USBs, a soldering iron and station accessories--will practice, then see if I can get the additional separation between throttle and HOTAS. Appreciate all who contributed to this thread. o7 Cmdrs, fly fast and be dangerous.

LordJim47 - the separation cable between the Stick and Throttle sections contains 16 conductors. You may wish to review these links.

https://www.reddit.com/r/hotas/comments/4zuxos/thrustmaster_tflight_cable_mod/

https://www.reddit.com/r/EliteDange...had_enough_of_that_short_tflight_hotas_cable/

https://www.reddit.com/r/EliteDange...inally_made_an_extension_for_my_thrustmaster/
 
Although I've never flown with the T-flight stick I originally bought a couple of years ago when I moved back to PC, (I gave it to a mate new to PC and bought an X52 then my current X56)...I think the link cable length would have been an irritation. The X52 had quite a long link with a 9 pin DIN plug end which was detachable...the X56 is dual USB3 with the throttle unit and stick being separate units and no link which is a big bonus....even on a PC desk setup since I don't have the cable cluttering up my desk.
 
Well, give them their dues, I sent the pictures of the castrated hotas one on Monday morning and got a text this morning from DPD to say they were going to deliver my package today! Unfortunately I had to divert the delivery to my parents house for tomorrow as there's nobody at home to take delivery today
 
Know what you are talking about; I started gaming with Xbox and once addicted to ED, started looking into ED PC for the Warthog/VR immersion. Just opened and started working the climb to King/Admiral before investing in a new simpit. I'm tracking MS's promises to open Xbox to USB devices, even added a keyboard to my HOTAS/TFRP setup. So far not much can be done with keyboard except what was possible with a chatpad, but hope that will change with an update sooner rather than later. Most likely will happen right after I invest $5K to do VR.

Anywho, look forward to getting past the learning curve and escaping the dependency on a warranty to fix any Thrustmaster HOTAS One yaw twitch; had to reconnect mine three times yesterday to get the USB to recognize it correctly. Apparently, on rare occasion during start-up and selecting the HOTAS/TFRP control device, it misses the throttle and/or picks up the yaw to right bug. I've learned that if I jump into a training session (challenging scenarios) I can test the HOTAS before playing ED. Usually works the first time, but have had to clear the cache once and reset the USB ports to get the HOTAS to be recognized and recalibrate itself. Appreciate your detail on putting the handle back together, this forum is great source of information once you know how to search effectively. o7 Cmdr, fly fast and be dangerous!

Umm... how do we do the above in bold nowadays ?
 
LordJim47 - the separation cable between the Stick and Throttle sections contains 16 conductors. You may wish to review these links.
o7 Cmdr! Reviewed all the links and ordered the no solder HDMI plugs from Amazon; put the OBD2 16 pin plugs in a wish list for later if the HDMI plan does not work out. Seriously appreciate the heads-up, would have not wanted to find 12 additional wires when I cut the cable to extend it. Cannot imagine trying to play this game without the backing from members of this forum, thanks again to all.
 
o7 Cmdr! Reviewed all the links and ordered the no solder HDMI plugs from Amazon; put the OBD2 16 pin plugs in a wish list for later if the HDMI plan does not work out. Seriously appreciate the heads-up, would have not wanted to find 12 additional wires when I cut the cable to extend it. Cannot imagine trying to play this game without the backing from members of this forum, thanks again to all.
By any chance, are you in the U.S? I ask because whenever I search amazon.uk I only seem to find cables
 
Umm... how do we do the above in bold nowadays ?

Clearing the usb cache? There is utility somewhere to do that. You will be astonished, my ports had 30+ devices each in cache. Will check the name.

Edit: USBDeview - nirsoft. I have 275 entries on 4 ports!!!

Hotas-X here, same problem. But I know that a drop of WD-40 will solve it.

And to the guy who was tempering crystal on Amiga - been there done that, respect. :p
 
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