Setting up Thrustmastet T 16000
- Thread starter funkytwig
- Start date
That is quite the guide! I'll point out that at step 5.3.1 the rectangular thingy at the top (the potentiometer) just pulls out without needing to pry out the custom plastic Thrustmaster bit it's pushed into, although doing that looks necessary to fit the Hall sensor....
When I pulled out my original potentiometer it had a oily coating on it and in it. This oily stuff wasn't on the replacement potentiometer I purchased. My theory is that whatever this oily stuff is softened the carbon track in the potentiometer and it was scraped off during normal use. The new one without the oily stuff has worked perfectly ever I installed it. The only source for the oily stuff I can think of is the lubrication Thrustmaster put on the ball of the joystick. Perhaps some joysticks are stored or shipped upside-down and the lubrication drains down the shaft into the potentiometer?
In any case, that's two options: replacement pot or Hall Sensor. IMO, just replacing the potentiometer is cheapest and simplest. You can also have a look at the imgur link in my signature for a more complex modification with two 5-way switches.
When I pulled out my original potentiometer it had a oily coating on it and in it. This oily stuff wasn't on the replacement potentiometer I purchased. My theory is that whatever this oily stuff is softened the carbon track in the potentiometer and it was scraped off during normal use. The new one without the oily stuff has worked perfectly ever I installed it. The only source for the oily stuff I can think of is the lubrication Thrustmaster put on the ball of the joystick. Perhaps some joysticks are stored or shipped upside-down and the lubrication drains down the shaft into the potentiometer?
In any case, that's two options: replacement pot or Hall Sensor. IMO, just replacing the potentiometer is cheapest and simplest. You can also have a look at the imgur link in my signature for a more complex modification with two 5-way switches.
My buddy uses this on my old T16. The guy spent weeks sciencing the hell out of it.
https://github.com/jamsoft/CMDRJamski-T16000M-FCS-HOTAS
https://github.com/jamsoft/CMDRJamski-T16000M-FCS-HOTAS
Deleted member 121570
D
Just to give massive credit here to @CNC drill press for putting the guide together and doing the oscilloscope traces!! He is the dude.
I've done a pot replacement too on an earlier stick - I reckon that the £3.36 for the HE sensor and the few pence for the magnet are worth it, for a truly permanent non-mechanical solution. I've done the HE mod now on about 5 sticks and have it down to about 10 minutes
It's really a good option if you're having to cut the original pot out anyway. Just my opinion tho - a replacement pot is of course also viable, and indeed very marginally simpler.
Good luck!