If you need an OS migration app, this works and is free https://www.aomeitech.com/aomei-partition-assistant.html
Deleted member 110222
D
Thank you. My best mate is gonna' come round for a brew when I get the thing and that's the very app' he's going to teach me to use.
He's an IT professional.
I'm putting together a mini-ITX build right now for the living room (specs in sig) - it's only going to have Win10, BFV and E:D on it, so I'm going with a 120GB SSD for the time being as I have one lying around still in its box unopened. BFV only takes up 45GB right now, although that will change as new maps are released. Prices have really come down recently, so I'll either buy a 240GB one later and use that, or steal the 500GB one from my laptop and move things around. I rather like having an SSD for games only, as the games will usually survive transfer to another system/an OS reinstall without requiring you to download them again.
Last edited:
Meh - I'd take this opportunity to clean install to SSD.
Backup your stuff, make another backup, prepare a Windows USB installer, remove the HDD, install SSD, install Windows from USB, install drivers, reboot, update, reboot, restore data you want on SSD, switch off, install HDD as another drive, boot up, clean HDD, set it for storage or games you don't need on SSD, backup, whatever you want.
Backup your stuff, make another backup, prepare a Windows USB installer, remove the HDD, install SSD, install Windows from USB, install drivers, reboot, update, reboot, restore data you want on SSD, switch off, install HDD as another drive, boot up, clean HDD, set it for storage or games you don't need on SSD, backup, whatever you want.
Win10 won't require a new license either, and it won't matter if you can't find your license key or forget to write it down before you install - once you're connected to the internet after installation, it will validate the license automatically. I think the only way to get it to ask you for a new key is if you change the motherboard.
Unless you have a rather specific use scenario where I/O would be the bottleneck, my recommendation for SSDs is almost always to get the lowest price per GB you can find (barring known bad drives/controllers, of course). You will hit diminishing returns on I/O performance under most consumer uses with almost any remotely modern SSD.
I would, however, hold off on QLC drives for a while. The technology is new and the long term endurance is still an unknown.
I would, however, hold off on QLC drives for a while. The technology is new and the long term endurance is still an unknown.
Deleted member 110222
D
Now that I had no idea about! Thank you sir!
I have had bad experiences with Kingston... The Crucial MX 300 is a good drive as is the Samsung EVO's. One thing to remember, the SSD won't get you any better performance other than boot times and loading programs.
Yes, mainly the boot times.
After the hard disk is fast. It is as a diesel of the 80s, it is necessary to warm the mechanics.
Another advantage of an SSD is that when you delete a file from the trash, the file is really deleted and not recoverable by an specialized software (I believe )
)
Last edited:
Go for 240.
120 is quickly filled even if the SSD is uniquely dedicated to Windows, internet, ED and a few office tools.
I'd disagree a bit there, but my use cases are not perhaps average. One very useful aspect of SSD's (to me at least) is that their sequential's are insane. That allows me to create VM's and lob them off to wherever they need to be on the network basically at full wire speed (let's say a gigabyte a second), and then dumped to traditional disk at a more leisurely rate - let's say a hundred or so megabytes a second. The time savings are immense.
Another advantage of an SSD is that when you delete a file from the trash, the file is really deleted and not recoverable by an specialized software (I believe
The data does persist on the drive after it's deleted by the OS (which really just ignores the deleted file anyway unless you scrub it / securely delete it)
No idea how data persistence lifetimes compare between SSD and platter but you can certainly recover deleted data from SSD.
Using a scrubber frequently on nuke from orbit settings will shorten the lifespan of an SSD too.
Grab a copy of recuva and run it on your SSD and see what it finds
Last edited:
Deleted member 110222
D
Interesting, and noted.
I just got done from Playing ED and I'm now scouring the web for reviews and opinions on various models.
Part of me is considering splashing the cash and getting a Samsung.
A Samsung also gets you their Magician caching software. That can significantly boost performance in some applications, but if you are low on RAM then I wouldn’t bother.
Failure rates for drives in general are high enough that you'll see horror stories about every brand.
Most modern file systems (with the exception of ext3/4 for whatever reason) will TRIM deleted data on SSDs by default (so the NAND is blank when you go to use it again), which generally makes it unrecoverable within minutes of deletion.
Consumer SSDs have to retain data for at least a year once their rated P/E cycles are spent and most will retain data much longer.
Mechanical HDDs should retain data on their platters for hundreds or thousands of years, far longer than the drive itself can ever be expected to last.
Most modern file systems (with the exception of ext3/4 for whatever reason) will TRIM deleted data on SSDs by default (so the NAND is blank when you go to use it again), which generally makes it unrecoverable within minutes of deletion.
Consumer SSDs have to retain data for at least a year once their rated P/E cycles are spent and most will retain data much longer.
Mechanical HDDs should retain data on their platters for hundreds or thousands of years, far longer than the drive itself can ever be expected to last.
That's interesting, I've done quite a few data recovery scans and found plenty of files on SSDs on OSs where TRIM is enabled by default, I've got deleted files in good condition going back weeks on my own SSDs and have checked to see if TRIM is enabled. The majority of other files are in poor or unrecoverable condition though, markedly different results to a platter drive. I'm not sure gone in seconds, while that might be the idea, necessarily always works like that in practice. Might there be a reason why so many files are recoverable?
Wow, I that's quite some time for data to persist on platter drives.
Last edited:
Yeah, TRIM isn't meant to be a security feature in normal use; it's there to aid garbage collection and wear leveling, reducing write amplifcation and slow downs as a drive would otherwise get filled up with deleted data. It does make it more likely that files will be unrecoverable, but it's not perfect.
SSDs also don't always react the way mechanical drives do to zero filling or an overwrite, as the logical storage is abstracted for the same purposes and almost all SSDs have more physical NAND than their logical capacities.
Formating (even a quick format) or deleting partitions off an SSD will prompt modern OSes to TRIM the entire drive at once, which will usually get rid of everything.
However, if you want to be 100% certain all data is gone, you'd need a manufacturer supported secure erase utility, or physical destruction of the NAND.
SSDs also don't always react the way mechanical drives do to zero filling or an overwrite, as the logical storage is abstracted for the same purposes and almost all SSDs have more physical NAND than their logical capacities.
Formating (even a quick format) or deleting partitions off an SSD will prompt modern OSes to TRIM the entire drive at once, which will usually get rid of everything.
However, if you want to be 100% certain all data is gone, you'd need a manufacturer supported secure erase utility, or physical destruction of the NAND.