Hardware & Technical Brand New x52 Issues. Please Help.

Thank you for taking the time to read this.

I had purchased an x52 (not the pro) flightstick and throttle so I could play Elite: Dangerous effectively instead of using the mouse set up.
It arrived today and I've had nothing but problems trying to get it work.

I have an HP pavilion dv6 with Windows 8.1 64 bit OS, Intel core i7 2.30 GHz.

When taking it out, I had done some research before hand and found that the installation disk was completely out of date. I downloaded the correct driver update and the software from Saitek.com. Nothing has happened. When I plug it into my computer, the LED screen on the throttle side blinks constantly but there is no USB connection sound. It's not in the devices section, a code 31 in the Devices manager pops up when trying to install the software and drivers, but nothing I do can make it recognize my laptop. The USB ports work just fine with my wired mouse and external hard drive.

I am at a loss and I need help.
If anyone knows how to fix this, please help me.

Thank you again for taking the time to read my issue.
 
The X52 is giving a lot of people problems that seem to be related to power and driver compatibility - especially with Intel USB controllers. You may need a powered USB hub for this joystick to work on a laptop.
 
Not much of a help but I sent mine back two weeks ago to overclockers... Micro switch issues / lazy response on the stick... RMA'd & back to my trusty Logitech 3D pro for me..... Seems QC can be hit n miss on what is an epic stick should you be lucky enough to have one that functions
 
I have issue with connection on mine to... Joystick can periodically disconnect for a second, and if you have it tilted in that moment, when it gets back on, it "centers" it self at point where you hold it at moment of disconnect... It's super annoying because it loses calibration and you can't control your ship. It can be fixed by unplugging stick from throttle and plunging it back in, but when you are in middle of fight, you can't actually do it right that moment...
Luckily, I have F.L.Y. 5, so I use him instead of X52 joystick.
Throttle works fine.
 
Same here...

I've noticed that occasionally the joystick will 'blink' and then it all goes :D:D:D:D up.

When out of the game and using the joystick with 'Control panel' then i dont see the problem.

Will raise a bug with ED as theres enough of us seeing this.

I have issue with connection on mine to... Joystick can periodically disconnect for a second, and if you have it tilted in that moment, when it gets back on, it "centers" it self at point where you hold it at moment of disconnect... It's super annoying because it loses calibration and you can't control your ship. It can be fixed by unplugging stick from throttle and plunging it back in, but when you are in middle of fight, you can't actually do it right that moment...
Luckily, I have F.L.Y. 5, so I use him instead of X52 joystick.
Throttle works fine.
 
There are loads of issues with the X52 that I've had to deal with when I got it.

Make sure it's connected to a USB 2, USB 3, or USB 2+ directly in your computer at the back, so no usb hubs or anything.

Make sure Windows does not power down the USB device when entering sleep mode (especially for Windows 8 users).
Go to your device manager, find the USB tree and right click the USB hub for the controller (just do it for all hubs if you can't find it), select properties. Go to Power Management and remove the tick for allowing the computer to turn off power to the device to save power, also don't allow the device to wake the computer up.

If you use Windows 8 that practically never really turns off the computer when you shut it down, the controllers may not light up when you start your computer. The only thing that solves this bug is to restart the computer to the point where the power is off, aka a cold boot. In Windows 7 this is easy as it happens every time you shut it off, but Windows 8 never really shuts off as it saves the state unto the harddrive when you turn it off making it a hibernate mode.

Download the drivers from this website: http://www.saitek.com/uk/down/drivers.php
If you keep having issues with the software, ask the support for beta software as it usually works better.

In the Profile Editor, when you bind your keys, make sure that a key bindings name field, does not exceed the number of characters of the LED display. On the X52 it's 16 character so make sure the name of the bind is not longer than that. An old bug crashed the controllers if a key bind had long names and it would result in blue screen of death.

And if the controller starts making sounds when you jerk the joystick, put silicone lube spray on the contact areas of the washer that is held under the spring of the handle. This will make it super smooth. Also put lube under the spring on between the washer plate and the spring. If you want to lube the throttle, spray some gently on the left and right side of the holding lips.

When it comes to the actual controllers of the X52 and Pro version, I suggest rebinding the controllers from the standard ED to a more usable binding. The pinkie shift button (Right hand pinkie button) is used in the game to zoom back the view so that you can select if you want to watch the left, right, upper, below panels and switch accordingly. This is a waste of a good shift state button because ED has so many buttons you want to use.
Rebind the look left, right, up, down panels button to the left hand POV hat 3. Rebind the mini mouse stick (ministick) to the horisontal, vertical thrust by using the profiler by making it to a 0-33 % bands binding instead.

Use the (i) (clutch) button for boost and combined with pinkie shift, supercruise initiation.
Use trigger (D) for Flight assist off and with pinkie shift, hypercruise chargeup.
Use trigger (E) for Shield cells and chaff with pinkie.
Set trigger (A) for go back in menu.
Use the backside scrollwheel as freelook toggle.

Use the T1-6 for:
Page Up/Down - Radar scale
Ship Lights, Landing Gear toggle
Silent Running - Heat sink launch

Avoid using the trim wheels (Rotary 1 & 2) for vertical and horizontal thrust. It is annoying to get into 50% center and sometimes it gets offset and causes issues.

That's my recommendations. Fly safe.
 
I have recognized that it stops blinking as soon I press any Button (If this is not happen do you than you may have an other issue). I have taped down one T Switch for a while. After 30 Minutes the blinking was gone. Strange but this has workedfor me two times. me.
 
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