CH Fighterstick button mapping

I was hoping to use the red button on the side of the CH Fighterstick (the one to the right of the trigger). When I bind it in ED to target ahead everything seemed fine except I needed to press it three times to activate it. It turns out that it doesn't output Joy 3 as I would have expected but Joy3 + Joy17 then Joy3 + Joy 18 then Joy 3 + Joy 19 sequentially. It seems this is because it's the mode button used with the CH software. It also toggles the 3 LED's on the stick. Thats fine if your using their software, which I am not. Just seems a shame to waste a useful button unless anyone knows a workaround without installing the CH software.
 
Mine doesn't do that. I have it bound to deploy hard points. It still changes the led colour. I'm not using the CH software at all and just use it as a windows joystick.
 
Mine doesn't do that. I have it bound to deploy hard points. It still changes the led colour. I'm not using the CH software at all and just use it as a windows joystick.

It might depend on what you bind it to. But it definitely only targeted ahead every 3 presses. I have found a work around by editing the .binds file and removing the modifier line for that function so it just has the Joy_3 bind on the line above.
 
This is because that button is actually the mode switch, which can be disabled. I have mine as my secondary fire, and iv never had an issue pressing it 3 times to have it work.

So in the CH products control panel you likely need to disable the multiple modes and it will work perfectly as a normal button
 
I don't have this issue either.
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For Elite, just set the CH panel to 'direct mode' and then ignore it as the Elite control page recognises everything natively.
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That button you mention still cycles the three lights, as does the equivalent on the CH throttle, but it makes zero difference to all functions because direct mode ignores these states.
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In this mode, Elite will still allow you to use buttons as 'shift' buttons to increase the functions on the other hats etc. I use all three on the throttle as different shifts without needing the CH software.
 
I was a bit reluctant to install the CH panel software as it would be just extra baggage to slow things down. So with the software installed and mode switch disabled then in direct mode it will just output joy3 for that button and not joy3 + joy17 etc ?

Another reason I removed the CH software was because I use the very nice reference sheet generator at http://www.mcdee.net/elite/ to keep tabs on my stick/throttle bindings and produce nice printouts for reference. Last time I had the CH software installed it caused problems with the sheet generator as I think the controller ID's change.
 
the control software is not high baggage, plus it allows you to program the joystick at a higher level. You don't even need to have it running once you have done with the programming. You upload the settings to the joystick and boom... unless it gets some weird reset or you annoy it by switching ports over it generally just works fine. The good part it allows you to put in gain curves for the axis. allowing for very fine level control around the joystick centre and increasingly corse control when beyond say... 30 degrees deflection


The program is well worth it, and seriously isn't a whole lot of baggage. Im running a 6 year old machine, it works perfectly.
 
You have convinced me Eros. Just installed it and set it to direct mode. Seemed to have lost all my existing bindings, but I expected that as the controllers present themselves to ED with a different ID after going though the control software. But the reference sheet generator I use seemed to cope with it fine also. He must have made changes to his bit to accept bind files after being processed by the CH software. I might also be able to get a bit of an S curve on the throttle mini stick now for better thrusters control.
 
Yep that too - getting the curve on the throttle helps loads for zeroing, also my CH Throttle doesn't go to 100%, so the calibration tool is perfect :D takes a bit of faffing but its worth it i think in the end. Oh yeah, if you have the CH Throttle, and you find it to be a bit noisy, open it up carefully and just adjust the crimped on connections to the pot... it will fix it up perfectly

For me it was just great to feel like i was in control when making small adjustments, rather than it feeling extremely jerky
 
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I do use the CH Throttle and found the calibration out quite a bit after loading the CH software. I use the throttle set to forward only and one of the throttle hats for reverse (not toggle). I don't think the calibration settings are stored in the stick/throttle itself as I use the throttle on two machines and the calibration wasn't carried to the other machine with the throttle. I think there is a small CH app running in the background that applies the adjustments. Not many devices store things like calibration data in NV ram. The last I remember was the Thrustmaster Cougar. The other PC has a Warthog setup but I hated the Warthog throttle. Hence I swap this CH Throttle between this PC (laptop) and the main one with the Warthog stick upstairs. :)
 
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Fair enough, :) good point actually, I didn't look for the service being run, mostly it is just because i don't see a task bar item for it on the right. I have noticed that iv lost my calibration when switching USB ports too, as it would appear to ID the device based on both its serial and the port plugged into.

:) I have definitely found the CH Joystick and Throttle a bit of a faff, but ultimately great
 
Thanks for that little     bit, it's potentially saved me a lot of head scratching. The CH setup here on the laptop has the controllers removed each time and the chances of me getting them back in the same USB sockets is a bit remote. I would be wondering what the hell is going on with the calibration. Incidentally, it seems ED is not fussy if it's a different USB port each time. Still seems to recognize the controllers correctly.
 
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