EDTracker Calibration Help

[lllJameslll]

Hi all, Im having trouble with my EDTracker Calibration and am hoping someone on here may be able to help. Just to let you know in advance although I am fairly computer savi compared to the average Joe I am a complete noob to this sort of thing so if there is any technical advice to be given if you wouldn't mind explaining it in detail it would be appreciated. Ill explain everything I've done so far and hopefully there something ive done wrong and there is an easy fix.

Basically I built my EDTracker last night as per the breadboard diagram and have tried Calibrating it this morning using the video tutorial. I connected my device and installed the latest drivers. Loaded up EDTrackerUtilV2.exe (V2.2.0) and Flashed the device using EDTracker2Calib (2.5.1). At first my device didn't connect but then I selected the specific COM and my device connected as it should. The red and green dots appeared and the head was spinning round (about 1 rotation every 12sec) unlike the tutorial video both my dots are completely out. The other difference I noticed is that Brumsters raw data hardly changes with his while mine erratically jumps about 10 in the gyro and 100-200 on the accelerometer data, it also had a yaw drift of about 50 to start with if that has any relevance.

Anyway after reading the guide I left the device running for a while to warm up to see if it would calm down, it didn't. I then began to press the calculate BIAS Values anyway. After 7 presses the Green Accelerometer dot eventually gets into the centre although it still jumps around a bit (not outside the inner circle but certainly nothing like the steadiness of Brumsters on his video). After 10 further presses the head is not rotating just twitching up and down and the red dot is at the bottom sliding erratically from one side to the other. After a further 20 presses the only change is the red dot is more located in the upper left quadrant but still is jumping around badly.

Ive also tried the older version of the GUI and it has the same problem!

Any advise on this would be gratefully received

One last thing if someone can clarify for me, on the bread board diagram it shows two small jumpers between 2 and the SDA and 3 and the SCL, these are not needed physically are they? as the way I understand it is that the breadboard forms that connection or is there something I need to do there.

Thanks in Advance

 

[n0ahg]

One last thing if someone can clarify for me, on the bread board diagram it shows two small jumpers between 2 and the SDA and 3 and the SCL, these are not needed physically are they? as the way I understand it is that the breadboard forms that connection or is there something I need to do there.

Not sure which diagram you are using but yes you need to connect the i2c bus on the two boards together and this is usually done using jumper wires on bread board as the connections run from the centre break to the outside edge.

 

[lllJameslll]

Hi n0ahg thanks for the reply. The diagram I used is the one from the EDTracker website, I am linking it below with some arrows to highlight my confusion (hopefully I've done it right).

This is the first time I've used a breadboard and although im a mechanical/civil engineer im a noob with electronics.

From what I understand of the breadboard, the 5 holes are linked together in line going across the board and its the same for the other side although the two sides of 5 are not linked, I have soldered all of the pins into the 2 boards (is this correct to do so?) and I was under the impression that because the 2 and the SDA and 3 and the SCL sit next to each other on the same side of the breadboard I thought they would be linked through the board and therefore not need the 2 jumpers ive put an arrow to, or have I got it wrong and do I then need to hard wire 2 small jumpers between the 2 and the SDA and 3 and the SCL as well.

Thanks for your help

 

[lllJameslll]

I tried wiring some extra jumpers between the two but still had the same problem! Also tried re doing it the other way round on the breadboard to check the board was ok but the problem is still there. Any other ideas please???

 

[huwthomas]

I have soldered all of the pins into the 2 boards (is this correct to do so?)

No, you don't need to (in fact I think you must not) solder all the pins with this design.

Here is the original post by IsaacS, who came up with the mini-breadboard design. The picture in the post shows which pins to omit.

 

[Rog]

No, you don't need to (in fact I think you must not) solder all the pins with this design.

Here is the original post by IsaacS, who came up with the mini-breadboard design. The picture in the post shows which pins to omit.

Can't get access to that post - alpha forum?

If you've got all those MPU board pins connected to all the Arduino pins on that side, that's your problem I guess.

 

[huwthomas]

Can't get access to that post - alpha forum?

Sorry 'bout that!

Direct Link to Pic

 

[lllJameslll]

Ah ok. It didn't mention on the tutorial about the pins so I assumed you just soldered all of them in, it also showed all of them being used on the PCB version which reinforced my thought it was alright to use them all but I can see how on a breadboard, they might cause problems.

Thanks for your help guys will report back with the results!

 

[Rog]

Desoldering the pins is going to be a bit of a pain.

Try clamping the Arduino board firmly without damaging it, heat the offending pin's solder joint and pull it out with pliers or other grippy thing while pushing from the short pin side with your iron.

Just try to not apply too much heat as it'll knacker the tracks on the board.

 

[n0ahg]

Hi n0ahg thanks for the reply. The diagram I used is the one from the EDTracker website, I am linking it below with some arrows to highlight my confusion (hopefully I've done it right).

This is the first time I've used a breadboard and although im a mechanical/civil engineer im a noob with electronics.

From what I understand of the breadboard, the 5 holes are linked together in line going across the board and its the same for the other side although the two sides of 5 are not linked, I have soldered all of the pins into the 2 boards (is this correct to do so?) and I was under the impression that because the 2 and the SDA and 3 and the SCL sit next to each other on the same side of the breadboard I thought they would be linked through the board and therefore not need the 2 jumpers ive put an arrow to, or have I got it wrong and do I then need to hard wire 2 small jumpers between the 2 and the SDA and 3 and the SCL as well.

Thanks for your help

Yes you are correct that the five pins in a row are connected. When I built mine on breadboard I put it at the end and wired the pins I needed to make sure I don't wire any pins which aren't needed. KISS until you are gappy with the circuit!

 

[huwthomas]

Desoldering the pins is going to be a bit of a pain.

Try clamping the Arduino board firmly without damaging it, heat the offending pin's solder joint and pull it out with pliers or other grippy thing while pushing from the short pin side with your iron.

Just try to not apply too much heat as it'll knacker the tracks on the board.

Maybe snip them and tape over with insulating tape?

 

[Rog]

Maybe snip them and tape over with insulating tape?

Yes, quicker but if he want's to insert new ones later for whatever reason, it'll be even harderer.

 

[lllJameslll]

Thanks guys, made the mod, wasn't the best job as I only had a set of pliers and a soldering iron, don't even have a stand for it but got it done never the less and only burnt myself once : ) Problem is, its still not working, wonder whether it fried something not having it wired correctly or it was just a faulty part from the start. wish the tutorial mentioned the pins but cant complain too much as its my fault for not knowing ****** all about electronics. guess Ill just have to order a new set of bits and try again, unless anyone has any other ideas why its not working properly.

 

[lllJameslll]

Is there an easy way to wipe the board/reset it? I've googled it but am finding it difficult to find a layman explanation on the pro micro.

I've tried that wipe function in the EDTracker options but when I tried it in another USB and on another PC it comes up with EDTracker2 in the installing driver window which suggests to me that the boards not wiping properly. It is also really hard to get the board to show up with the calibration section, most the time it fails to connect even when the specific com port is selected. Therefore am just wondering if it got bricked with the extra pins in and thought a wipe might sort it out

 

[brumster]

If you use the command-line update tool, there's a "debug" image in there which will basically load a sketch into it that just flashes the LED. So this will wipe any EDTracker code from the device, for certain. There is then an EEPROMWipe sketch which will do the same to any memorised settings in EEPROM. By doing those two, you've got as blank a device as it can be (albeit with a debug sketch/program in it)....

 

[lllJameslll]

Thanks for the reply Brumster and thanks to you and the others for creating the resources and sharing them is much appreciated. Should have my HMZ T1 optics re housed in some ski goggles by the end of the week and really want to have the head tracking ready to compliment it.

I did what you suggested and it did get me back in but the exact same problem came back as soon as I tried to calibrate, I think it must be a hardware problem. Below is a URL to a 7sec clip of what's happening in calibration.

http://s44.photobucket.com/user/email_trotter/media/EDTracker_zps43058074.mp4.html

I've ordered a new set of parts to build another and put an order into you guys for a pre built but I realise you have a lot to do so may take a while. I could do with a few devices anyway as I want to make a gun controller up with the EDTracker & PS sharp shooter rifle I have but need to walk before I run on that.

Thanks again for the help

 

[brumster]

Whooaa, that's all over the shop! Assuming the MPU6050 board is rock solid and still, that 'aint right, but you knew that if you're happy the wiring is fine then I guess this must be some sort of fault with the MPU6050 board.... I've never seen one do that before in my experience

 

[lllJameslll]

Yeah I have checked the wiring and swapped it round the opposite way on the breadboard to eliminate the it being a faulty breadboard as the cause. Was hoping that it was something that could be fixed software side but feared it was a hardware fault. If I carry on to the next stage anyway it seems to work fine in the y rotation and therefore can nod the head (yes) but the x rotation is completely dead. Once I get the new parts ill check which part is faulty once I have a working EDTracker.

Out of interest whilst I have you on here Brumster, I was wondering whether any of you guys have tried or thought about using a secondary EDTracker for a gun controller, for use with games like Arma 3 as that supports separate Head Tracking. I tried it with a wii mote for tracking and the PS Sharpshooter for buttons and joystick functionality back along but never managed to iron out all the kinks with the wii mote tracking. Ideally would like two EDTrackers one head one gun with VR Headset for full 360 point and shoot. Even better if the to devices could calculate height between them and therefore zoom when gun was brought up to your shoulder!! Just thought I would try and plant that seed in the hope someone might grow it for me, hint hint ; )

 

[brumster]

Out of interest whilst I have you on here Brumster, I was wondering whether any of you guys have tried or thought about using a secondary EDTracker for a gun controller, for use with games like Arma 3 as that supports separate Head Tracking. I tried it with a wii mote for tracking and the PS Sharpshooter for buttons and joystick functionality back along but never managed to iron out all the kinks with the wii mote tracking. Ideally would like two EDTrackers one head one gun with VR Headset for full 360 point and shoot. Even better if the to devices could calculate height between them and therefore zoom when gun was brought up to your shoulder!! Just thought I would try and plant that seed in the hope someone might grow it for me, hint hint ; )

<laughs>

No reason why you can't plug in 2 EDTrackers, and while it would certainly track the way a gun is pointing you'd need that "zoom" feature to give you any accuracy I guess. But the problem there is *positional* tracking that you need; this is a no-hope on the design as it stands. This is where you need point-model systems like that of the Oculus DK2/TrackIR.

 

[Omegahunter]

Yeah I have checked the wiring and swapped it round the opposite way on the breadboard to eliminate the it being a faulty breadboard as the cause. Was hoping that it was something that could be fixed software side but feared it was a hardware fault. If I carry on to the next stage anyway it seems to work fine in the y rotation and therefore can nod the head (yes) but the x rotation is completely dead. Once I get the new parts ill check which part is faulty once I have a working EDTracker.

Out of interest whilst I have you on here Brumster, I was wondering whether any of you guys have tried or thought about using a secondary EDTracker for a gun controller, for use with games like Arma 3 as that supports separate Head Tracking. I tried it with a wii mote for tracking and the PS Sharpshooter for buttons and joystick functionality back along but never managed to iron out all the kinks with the wii mote tracking. Ideally would like two EDTrackers one head one gun with VR Headset for full 360 point and shoot. Even better if the to devices could calculate height between them and therefore zoom when gun was brought up to your shoulder!! Just thought I would try and plant that seed in the hope someone might grow it for me, hint hint ; )

<laughs>

No reason why you can't plug in 2 EDTrackers, and while it would certainly track the way a gun is pointing you'd need that "zoom" feature to give you any accuracy I guess. But the problem there is *positional* tracking that you need; this is a no-hope on the design as it stands. This is where you need point-model systems like that of the Oculus DK2/TrackIR.

You might not need "positional" tracking to get this to work. An IR sensor if it was split between the two units. IR dectector on the gun and IR LED emitters on the head unit might do the job?

Add in some code so that the ED VR Controllers can talked to each other over the serial ports so the gun can call to have the LED turned on and off (or just have them pulse every few 10th of a second)

Then when the gun is within say six inches of the LED's it trigger that you are scoope looking.

If positioning of the LED's is a problem they could be wired so they an be attached to a pair of glasses or a semi-flexible cable.