Hardware & Technical **EMERGENCY! HOTAS throttle in sudden death catastrophe!

Ok, so that might be a tiny be dramatic :D However... My TM 1600 FCS throttle just stopped working. Windows has decided it no longer exists, and no manner of prodding and poking is getting it to work, so I can only imagine something's gone wrong with the board. And I have absolutely no idea where I bought it from...

So, I have a slight dilemma, that I'm pretty sure my fellow Pilot Federation members can help me with.

I have 2 choices currently. Both will cost me roughly the same amount of coin. I could either buy a replacement, standalone TWCS Throttle, and be on my merry way, or I could jump to the Saitek X52 (of the silver and glowy blue variety).

I've heard very mixed opinions on the X52, and I have no idea which opinions to go with. So, as I'm pretty sure some of you will have used (or still use) one, I would very much appreciate opinions on whether to get one or stick with the Thrustmaster.
 
Just an idea, have you tried plugging the throttle in a different USB port?

Naturally, and a couple of different hubs attached to different ports. Only thing I've not done to completely eliminate the PC is to try the laptop - but that's currently upstairs with a sleeping wife...

Edit: Disturbed the wife.. definitely dead, very miffed :(
 
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Pretty much my exact words.

So yeah, any advice on stick types from you fine folks would be very much appreciated.
 
A couple of years ago I visited a store that had Saitek X52 (among several other flight sticks) on display. I of course tried the feel of each and every one. X52 felt very flimsy/floppy, so if you've been using the T16000M at default centering spring strength, it will take some time to get used to the X52.

Facing your situation, I'd go for replacement throttle (or the stick/throttle bundle), to me the X52 feels too toy-like.

Of X52 quality, I've read that early Saitek ones were usually well built, with build & component quality dropping as years passed, then the quality took a real nose-dive when the brand went MadCatz. Now that Logitech makes those sticks, the quality is reported to have become better, but during the last few years I noticed firsthand also Logitech going downhill with el cheapo parts & too short in unit wiring.
 
I swapped out a Logitech 3d extreme because the centering spring was far too stiff so accurately tracking anything past the centre point was impossible. Now using an x52 pro (logitech version) which is much smoother traversing across the centre point and lighter weighted so requires a lighter touch which I prefer for accuracy (such as it is). No idea about the quality, it feels OK for a plastic joystick, the throttle isn't as smooth as it could be but nothing has fallen off it yet.
 
Make sure none of the connectors have come lose inside it. Had this on my old joystick, was a 5 min fix.
Yeah I had a look, everything looks tight, the only issue I had recently was the friction bracket had come off and I had to re-attach it - I wonder if I somehow damaged something as it wasn't working since then. (worked fine before I opened it, but I've opened it numerous times for lubrication and other such maintenance).

I can only guess I've somehow damaged a board component, but I'm pretty careful so... I dunno.

As for the sticks, I am leaning towards a new throttle as I hear many stories about the X52, and especially as they don't use hall sensors...
 
Ohh well, I found the issue, I have indeed somehow managed to break a component...
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Which goes here...

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I don't know if this is a resistor or something else - my modern electronics is not very good, but I don't think I can see an easy way to fix this. Any ideas?
 
Further investigation shows this is an Anti-ESD component and is directly linked to the USB powerline, so clearly this is why nothing is working. IT is also fairly clear I cannot resolder this back on, as I don't think I can expose the metal pins underneath the plastic.

I cannot tell if I damaged it somehow, or that it actually blew in some way. Eitherway, I suspect I'll be buying a new throttle...
 
Further investigation shows this is an Anti-ESD component and is directly linked to the USB powerline, so clearly this is why nothing is working. IT is also fairly clear I cannot resolder this back on, as I don't think I can expose the metal pins underneath the plastic.

I cannot tell if I damaged it somehow, or that it actually blew in some way. Eitherway, I suspect I'll be buying a new throttle...

It looks pretty melted, so I'd say a component failure.

If you looked it up in the documentation and it's really just some sort of ESD coil, you could try looking for a new one. Though by the looks of the poor thing, something probably killed it. I'm not sure of the inner workings of the T16k, but the fact that something pulled THAT much current from a USB socket is kind of scary.
 
Yes... I'm not sure what that could have been, but I'm concerned about using my powered USB hub now :eek:

Oh well.. I'll just have to hope the TWCS throttles come back into stock at Amazon soon, as I can't find them anywhere else sub £85 - which I am not paying!
 
You can get a an Amazon warehouse deals x52 pro with an extra 20% off today - total cost circa £80. :)

Though x52 (even Pro) is yet another bag of worms. I like the HOTAS visually, but nope. Gave up on them.

The stick is incredibly flimsy, the proprietary 5-pin cable between the throttle and the stick is a source of all kinds of issues and it hates USB 3.0. Has to be plugged directly into the PC and ONLY into 2.0, otherwise it goes nuts.
When I bought the TM16k FCS HOTAS, I was amazed by the sturdiness of the build, the feel of the stick, etc. The x52 throttle is nice, though. If it had an analog POV, like FCS has, I'd be still using it. it's better than FCS.
 
The page says they are Logitech, hopefully that's true.

I hope mine isn't proven flimsy, the main shaft seems to be metal but goodness knows what the insides are like. It actually feels OK to use apart from the throttle not being that smooth. Maybe they have improved the guts recently, mine is plugged into the screen hub which is connected to a USB3 port and it's working OK although to be fair the screen hub might be USB2. With you on the connector cable, that screams cheap early 2000's external storage device power connector cable, not planning to keep unplugging it though.
 
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