Newcomer / Intro Help setting up thrustmaster t16000m

[Simplexcity]

Hey Commanders

Just needing a bit of help setting up my thrustmaster as ive almost spent more time tinkering with the control settings than the actual game.
Today i was setting up t.a.r.g.e.t because my joystick had huge deadzones (even with teh deadzones set to 0 ingame). downloading the Elite Dangerous T-16000M.fcf and following the setup instructions seemed to have helped with this, but my problem is that in its default state, my Y axis is at -12596 (looking in the device analyzer) meaning without touching the controls my ship pitches down continuously (i changed the y axis deadzone to get around this for now, but its still annoying its not 0 for some reason). Can anybody help me with this? or tell me how i can set a default state?

*i will attatch an image when im allowed*

Secondly, after following the instructions for setting up t.a.r.g.e.t, i was wondering if i need that config script to be runnning every time i play? without it running my joystick does nothing. The instructions also said to use the mouse and keyboard setting (under controls in the menu) but this means my joystick actually replicates keyboard presses instead of its joystick buttons it used to. I would still like to be able to use my keyboard for doing some more complex keyboard controls (like diverting power around my ship, fine thrust contols, menus etc) and not have my joystick buttons remap my keyboard. is this possible?

Also, is there a way to save differnt controller setups as well? if i wanted to occasionally play with my xbox controller or just mouse and keyboard from time to time?

Many thanks!

 

[mistohise]

I can't help with target as I didn't really understand it, but have you tried centring your stick and then restarting your computer? I've had to do this a couple of times to recalibrate the centre point

 

[markkuk]

Remove the t.a.r.g.e.t software entirely, you don't need it and as far as I know it only causes problems and doesn't provide any benefits. My t16000m works fine without any additional drivers or software.

 

[Simplexcity]

Thanks ill try restarting or some other combination of pluggin it in again to see if i can get the Y axis to be normal.

Also, my t16000m was working fine before i installed target too, but i found that it had quite a large deadzone (even with the deadzone at 0 ingame) and wanted to see if i could get finer controls (like i had with the xbox sticks). First thing i noticed with that target scripts running was that i had much finer/precise controls and almost no deadzone. Only problem is the defauly Y value, and it remaps/uses the keyboard buttons.

Still asking just incase im being a super noob and theres just some box i need to tick to fix everything

 

[Serkor]

I'm using my T16000M with the standard Windows joystick driver and everything works fine. Very happy with it.
Added very small deadzones for all axis in the Elite Control options.

 

[huwthomas]

Seconded on not using TARGET, I had problems with TARGET/ED back in the Alpha and gave up, some events sent from TARGET were not getting through to ED. From a forum post I read the other day, the TARGET problems have still not been resolved (iirc it was the same issue I had -- POV hat buttons not being seen).

Have you looked in Control Panel | Set Up USB Game Controllers | T.16000m | Properties? You can calibrate the stick, view the raw data, and test the buttons etc. -- you'll be able to see if small movements are being reported. Hopefully, calibrating will fix the weird Y value and the deadzone.

Edited to add: About saving multiple bindings -- the binding data is stored in your AppData/Local/Frontier Developments/Elite Dangerous/Options/Bindings. It's a good idea to make a backup copy of these files even if you don't plan to change controllers, since the game can be a bit, shall we say "cavalier", with your carefully-crafted settings

 

[Masta Squidge]

I'm using my T16000M with the standard Windows joystick driver and everything works fine. Very happy with it.
Added very small deadzones for all axis in the Elite Control options.

Me as well, I even have two of them mapped just fine. Plugged them in, then set the custom keybindings in game.

There is a problem with them zeroing wrong if there is any input when you start the computer or plug them in. I would try uninstalling the drivers, unplugging the devices, then follow the instructions for the stick from start to finish.

 

[Robert Maynard]

Have you bound Pitch and Roll to axes or to joystick directions? If the latter then it will appear as if there are massive dead-zones as the joystick is, in effect, in digital mode with full deflection = on; anything less = off.

 

[Serkor]

Only thing I need to do when starting the game before launch of the ship is to move the throttle up and down a couple of times to ensure ship will release with 0 speed. Noticed a few times that ship would release with some forward speed even if throttle was all the way down. But that could be true for all joysticks...

 

[markkuk]

Only thing I need to do when starting the game before launch of the ship is to move the throttle up and down a couple of times to ensure ship will release with 0 speed.

I have noticed the same effect.

Noticed a few times that ship would release with some forward speed even if throttle was all the way down. But that could be true for all joysticks...

After skimming through the USB HID device class docs, it seems that an USB joystick only sends information when the control state changes, e.g. when you move the throttle slider. Until you move the throttle, the game (or the USB driver) assumes it's in the all the way front position.

 

[Serkor]

For all my other flight sims I use a Saitek quadrant which is also a USB device and it never happens.

 

[markkuk]

Have you reversed the direction of the throttle action when using the Saitek quadrant? I'm assuming you're using the reverse throttle option in Elite for T16000m to get slider down=throttle down action.

 

[Serkor]

I don't use the Saitek quadrant with Elite, I even need to unplug it because it conflicts with the joystick axis. I use the T16000M throttle.

 

[Simplexcity]

Awesome yes thanks for the advice/help.
I removed t.a.r.g.e.t and reset up my joystick and ran the windows calibration and drivers, rebound all my controls again and it works perfectly!

 

[bullfrog]

in target device analyser try moving the stick to the extremes of the offending axis backwards and forwards a few times, if it works repeat for all axese

I seem to remember this helped mine to center, please say if it works.

 

[Pul Myfinger]

Thanks for this thread. I had the same problem as OP. Fixed when
I changed Controls > Preset to 'Generic Joystick'; flight rotation axis
reset and minimal deadzones

 

[evanovix]

The throttle on my T-16000m is abit "noodly"; It started gradually back in january. At zero throttle it sometimes "flicker" the speed between 5-10%. Especially annoying if it happens when exiting hyperspace or docking. I have to tap the throttle to stop the flickering.

Edit: at work now so cannot test until I get back home. One thing I have not tried is to set a higher deadzone for the throttle... hopefully this will fix it... I cannot afford to buy a CH throttle or hotas setup atm

 

[huwthomas]

The throttle on my T-16000m is abit "noodly"; It started gradually back in january. At zero throttle it sometimes "flicker" the speed between 5-10%. Especially annoying if it happens when exiting hyperspace or docking. I have to tap the throttle to stop the flickering.

Edit: at work now so cannot test until I get back home. One thing I have not tried is to set a higher deadzone for the throttle... hopefully this will fix it... I cannot afford to buy a CH throttle or hotas setup atm

The bundled TARGET software may be worth a look, it lets you set three dead zones (bottom, mid, top) and tweak the response curve. It also looks like you can trigger events depending on throttle position, so potentially you could map the throttle so it sends keystrokes, driving the k/b throttle interface instead of the analogue one. That would take away fine control, but the benefit would be that you could map it so the dodgy sector is ignored.

It's probably fixable at hardware level by cleaning the variable resistor, however I don't think I'd fancy that unless I already had a CH Pro lined up so I could keep playing if it went horribly wrong