Suteksio has already answered this but for my part ... I did a fair bit of trial and error (despite sort of understanding the principles). Basically I ended up increasing the blur practically to its maximum (which basically gives you a very small, precise depth of field, thus maximising the blur effect - in other words, only a very small part of the scene will be in focus). Then you use the focus control to set the distance to be the distance from the camera to the thing you want to be sharply in focus (in practice you don't really know this distance so it's largely trial and error, increasing and decreasing it until the thing you're interested in comes into focus). When I first did this the effect was fairly subtle but then I remembered that someone has said that increasing the zoom helped to exaggerate the effect. Not being a photographer I don't really understand this but it certainly works. So rather than moving the camera until the the thing you want to photograph is nicely framed, if you move the camera further back and then zoom in to frame the subject, the blur effect seems to be more dramatic. One other thing, once you've got the depth of field and point of focus set the way you want, if you start moving the camera around you'll notice your point of focus moves with you. I guess this isn't surprising but it is cool. For example, if you get everything set up so the nose of your your ship is in sharp focus and everything else is blurred, if you want to take a similar shot of the tail of the ship, rather than repeating the entire process again from the back, leave the blur/zoom/focus settings alone and just reposition the camera.
it's kinda like using a real camera, it's easier to blur the background the closer the camera is to the subject, so rather than zooming to get closer then trying to blur, move the actual camera closer then use the focus and blur settings, the photo above is a good example of the effect you'll get when focusing close up
As would be the case with a real optical system. All other things being fixed, the depth of the in-focus area is determined by the focal length ("zoom", but good luck doing any calculations with that weird scale starting at "0.0×", WTH‽) and the aperture (which I guess is what the "blur" setting is trying to emulate).Interesting and possibly what I might have thought. In practice however it seems as if the blur effect is more pronounced if you move the camera further back and increase the zoom.
The movement speed for focus needs to be a little refined. It either moves to fast or to slow, theres no in between.
That's the camera drone signal indicator... Nothing to do at all with focus, just range.There is an indicator in the top right corner of your screen that will be green when your zoom is in the focus range, red when not in focus (at least from what I can tell) and a distance indicator (maximum of 250 meters while attached).
It's sooo bad. Especially given that the 1m is useless for external shots where you start at 25m, but trying to get there is 1.01, 1.2, 1.5, 30...The movement speed for focus needs to be a little refined. It either moves to fast or to slow, theres no in between.