The rub
Hey Maximumpanda
The hub might be the rub. I read it too somewhere.
Try direct connection.
Fly safe.
Hey Maximumpanda
The hub might be the rub. I read it too somewhere.
Try direct connection.
Fly safe.
Hardware & Technical looking for advice from x55 owners
- Thread starter maximumpanda
- Start date
Oops. Sorry. Didn't catch this post first time round...
I've not heard of this problem with an X-55, but with a Saitek controller I owned in the past, I had to completely uninstall device drivers and then re-install in order to correct this issue.
You might try re-calibrating using the Rhino software (look under settings), but given the history with other Saitek controllers, I think that it is worth doing a total uninstall and then re-installing the drivers and software.
Here are a couple of links that should help with the process.
http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/3802279/Saitek_driver_problem
this one applies to the X65, but it might help
http://www.saitek.com/uk/supp/x65fsx3.html
tried an absolute wipe of the drivers, unfortunately no change at all. worried I might have a faulty unit
edit..... ok, really weird result. if I remove the joystick from the base and move just the nub that the stick connects to around, the issue goes away. anyone have a possible reasoning for this?
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surprisingly enough I didn't bring my old sticks with me when I moved last year
the issue gets weirder though, I noticed while changing the springs that when I remove the stick from the base, the detection works perfectly again.
stick detached: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zlv0oAfLUaw
stick attached: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6gKR0WknBp0
surprisingly enough I didn't bring my old sticks with me when I moved last year
the issue gets weirder though, I noticed while changing the springs that when I remove the stick from the base, the detection works perfectly again.
stick detached: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zlv0oAfLUaw
stick attached: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6gKR0WknBp0
It is possible you have a "sticky" stick. A number of people have had this issue including me. Apparently it can be fixed by applying some graphite lock lubricant. Check this post:
http://forums.frontier.co.uk/showpost.php?p=468239&postcount=675
From this thread:
http://forums.frontier.co.uk/showthread.php?t=14153&page=68
(Although this sticky stick issue usually is a case of the stick not returning to its centre correctly. But it's possible it could be causing the problem you are having too).
this is what the windows test looks like
http://imgur.com/VfVQoP1
just to demonstrate the issue I have 2 videos. it looks like i've narrowed it down to an issue with the top right corner of the strick.
vid1: in E : D
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Ya2gkZq84U&feature=youtu.be
vid2: in H.U.D.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5lcBSSOEPOI
I contacted support through live chat, and the guy basically told me to unplug it, plug it in, and if that doesn't work, return to whoever sold it.
Hi. There is a known issue with only being able to calibrate one of the devices when they are plugged in. When I first set mine up, I plugged the throttle in first so when the drivers installed, I couldn't calibrate the throttle.
To get round this, I removed all devices and drivers, and just plugged the throttle in on its own. I could then do the windows calibration for the throttle, and the HUD calibration to set dead zones.
I also had a problem with the buttons on the throttle only working intermittently and then not at all. When I changed the spring, I gave the contact point on the base and the stick a really good wipe over to make sure they were clean. When I reassembled the stick, making sure the tightening ring is very tightly closed, all the buttons worked correctly and have done ever since.
Thinking about it, as I type this, I actually did it the other way around. I did the throttle first because I don't need to tweak that any more. Settings changes made in the HUD (curves, dead zones) are stored on the device itself so it's ok to go through the driver removal process. It's the dead zones and curves on the stick that need fiddling with to get the best feel in game so I did this second.
Hope this helps.
I hate to sound condescending, but are you twisting the stick while moving it left-right?
The X-55 has twist action as an additional axis and, by default, is assigned to yaw if I remember correctly, which would explain your additional movements.
Unlike most joysticks this can't be locked mechanically and is very sensitive - you can active it just by squeezing the joystick at times.
Assuming that's the case, either assign the twist axis (I believe it's the Joystick's Z-axis if I remember correctly) to something else (or clear the binding entirely) or disable the axis completely in the Saitek software.
Also, make sure that none of the rotaries on the throttle are assigned to any ship movements as it's almost impossible to set them in their deadzones in elite.
The X-55 has twist action as an additional axis and, by default, is assigned to yaw if I remember correctly, which would explain your additional movements.
Unlike most joysticks this can't be locked mechanically and is very sensitive - you can active it just by squeezing the joystick at times.
Assuming that's the case, either assign the twist axis (I believe it's the Joystick's Z-axis if I remember correctly) to something else (or clear the binding entirely) or disable the axis completely in the Saitek software.
Also, make sure that none of the rotaries on the throttle are assigned to any ship movements as it's almost impossible to set them in their deadzones in elite.
I had something similar on my X-55 initially, but with mine it was an occasional steady spin and as Hoshi has said above, it turned out to be the Z-Axis which was slightly sticky so setting a larger dead zone within the E: D controls fixed it... However if yours is a lot stronger as if its on full spin / action then I am not sure.
Have you configured the stick within the Rhino software as well as the Elite control settings - possibly a conflict there?
Have you configured the stick within the Rhino software as well as the Elite control settings - possibly a conflict there?
The only problem I have had with my X55 was random stuff happening when I moved the throttle. I moved the throttle to a different USB port/interface (USB 3.0) it cured all my problems.
after hours of trying to debug it, I've settled on the idea that the stick is faulty and needs to be replaced.. really bummed because I just got my rift and while it lasted it was awesome (how do i go back now that I have seen what could be )
)
after hours of trying to debug it, I've settled on the idea that the stick is faulty and needs to be replaced.. really bummed because I just got my rift and while it lasted it was awesome (how do i go back now that I have seen what could be
When you take the stick off the base there is a small round circuit board that is the pick up for the control switches on the stick. You may have done this but ensure its clean and making good contacts, although another possibility could be that you have another controller that is plugged to a usb port or the mouse that is trying to dual control your xyz axis.
If it is a faulty stick it sounds like it may be the Hall effect magnet that is in the base and its contacts, that sends stick movements to the base circuit board. Perhaps dirt on the contacts there or a loose wire connection, but if you take it apart you will invalidate the warranty.
i've checked and cleaned them multiple times, nothing should be causing a contact issue. I've noticed a new quirk. if turn the z axis to 100% everything works fine, and I've eventually got everything to work fine by disabling the z axis and tweeking it around a little until everything worked at dead center. the problem is that if I even apply a tiny amount of pressure on the z axis, it all breaks again.
at thins point would it be worth opening the controller and seeing if I can fix whatever is the problem with the z axis, or should I just go through with the RMA and wait 1-2 months for another? (honestly just debating binning it and buying a warthog and eating the cash value as I really don't care about 200 quid, but its really starting to annoy me.
so I spoke with tech support today, after 2 hours on hold they cut the call, called back and waited another 30 minutes and got a pleasant lady who instructed me how to download drivers. after which she let me explain my issue, after the description she told me she couldn't help with that and if I sent them the unit they could send me a new unit in 4-6 weeks, but was very adement that I do not touch any of the screws as they would void the warrenty.
I celebrated by breaking out the tool kit and soldering gun and breaking the damn thing open. (4-6 weeks is a bloody joke).
since my problem was only with the z axis, I only looked at the bottom cylinder with the silver cap. upon removing I noticed that the three very thin (black, red, blue) cables were crimped where they had been forced against the silver pin that holds the black cylinder there.
all I had to do was unscrew the 2 screws surrounding the top piece, reorient the blue, red, black cables so that on one side of the metal rod was the thick black cable that housed all the button cables, and on the other were the thin cables.
slapped it all together again, plugged it in and voila I saved myself 4 weeks of wait, and about 30 bucks in postage.
I celebrated by breaking out the tool kit and soldering gun and breaking the damn thing open. (4-6 weeks is a bloody joke).
since my problem was only with the z axis, I only looked at the bottom cylinder with the silver cap. upon removing I noticed that the three very thin (black, red, blue) cables were crimped where they had been forced against the silver pin that holds the black cylinder there.
all I had to do was unscrew the 2 screws surrounding the top piece, reorient the blue, red, black cables so that on one side of the metal rod was the thick black cable that housed all the button cables, and on the other were the thin cables.
slapped it all together again, plugged it in and voila I saved myself 4 weeks of wait, and about 30 bucks in postage.
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Vlodec
Banned
I admire your confidence, and congratulations on sorting it out. I'm not surprised it was a hardware problem, Saitek are not known for good build quality and the X55 in particular has had a bad press on this issue.
Yes mine needed work too as I explained earlier to produce a smooth action and have to agree with this comment their rep isn't the best in the world, but once you have the x55 working well I find it is a great controller. Shame we have to do running repairs as soon as we get them.
Welcome to the FTNR club (Fix The New Rhino) you passed your entrance exam with flying colors.
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The irony is that even with its flaws its still the best out there for button combination, throttle, and twist action.
Which shows the general low quality, or lacking options in general, of the flight stick market I guess.
Of course a CH fanboy will dissagree, though.
Which shows the general low quality, or lacking options in general, of the flight stick market I guess.
Of course a CH fanboy will dissagree, though.