I can't remember how to submit a ticket so I'll just drop a note here. Of late my ship will begin to spin along it's long axis uncontrollably, out of the blue during game play. Doesn't matter which ship and the only thing that stops it is auto docking. Anyone else have this problem? Can anyone steer me towards submitting a ticket? TIA.
Need help.
- Thread starter Trgt
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No flight assist. Last time it did it (tonight) I was dead in the water mining. It was almost like a rock hit me and started me spinning, but there wasn't any rock nearby and I had been in the same spot for a few minutes before it went haywire. I was able to maneuver to a jump and once at the star the spinning, or rotating, resumed immediately. Only after I got to my station and started auto dock did it cease.
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My Thrustmaster hotas has a problem with turning to the left no matter what I do to dead one settings. Idk what control type you use but it could be a technical issue like this
I use a VKB, which doesn't misbehave in IL 2, this issue has only begun most recently and only when at a stand still. There's no correcting it with counter maneuvering it spins and the best I can do is maneuver around with thrusters to line up for a straight run as I spin. The first time it happen I shut down the game and restarted it and all was well. This last time I had a load of Painite onboard and was still in the mining area and didn't dare to restart the game at that local knowing I'd have to deal with a pirate as soon as I re-entered the game. So I spun myself home as best I could. Didn't this game just get patched?
You need to check the connection between your grip & gimbal base. VKB controllers (probably others too) with throw up comms errors if the connection is flakey.
Usually removing & re-seating the grip, then tightening the clamp properly will do it, it's easy to have the bolt tight but not actually be gripping the grip
You can check the connection & error rates in the VKBDevCfg companion app.
That is unfortunately a pervasive issue with the Thrustmaster HOTAS X/4/One.
They’re just cheaply made with bad quality control.
Some work great, some don’t
I’ve got the same issue with mine lately and have been researching it thoroughly.
It appears to be caused by the dodgy positioning of the cables inside the joystick.
This little guide seems to be the best solution for fixing it although I haven’t been able to try it myself as the screws that handle together are thread locked so damn tight that I’ve stripped the heads out of some of the cheap screws Thrustmaster use and don’t dare drill them out because it’s quite delicate.
Source: https://www.reddit.com/r/hotas/comments/eqya5d/repairing_a_tflight_joystick_yawrz_axis/
Thank you for this. I have the T.16000 HOTAS and have been experiencing this issue, albeit mildly, for quite some time. It's super aggravating. I'll give this fix a shot. Some games have a built-in sensitivity slider that could resolve this, but Elite isn't one of them (I couldn't find it anyway).
UPDATE: Those instructions are specifically for the HOTAS X, but I found a video on YouTube that is specific to the T.16000 stick. It worked like a champ. In addition to the steps in the video, I also took the opportunity to liberally lubricate the friction point where the potentiometer rotates within the housing with WD-40 White Lithium Grease.
When I looked in the Windows Game Controllers testing/config panel for the stick before performing the fix, the Z axis was jittering back and forth all over the place even when the joystick was perfectly at rest. It was steady as a rock when I was finished. The T.16000 is a much more complicated disassemble than the HOTAS X, so an extra set of hands from your significant other will be a big help.
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I had yaw drift that kept getting progressively worse from a loose connector inside my controller. It was only when it disconnected completely that I lost my mind and took the joystick apart. Granted this is on an MS SWFF2 so YMMV but I thought I'd throw in my two shekels.
I had this with my 1600m, the problem is that the mounts for the pot can be too tight, and cause it to glitch - there are guides to the fix, but to sum up, disassemble the stick, trim the plastic holding the twist pot, and reassemble.
Source: https://www.reddit.com/r/EliteDangerous/comments/9um3wa/i_think_to_have_solved_my_thrustmaster_t16000/
I had a revelation (to old people this means "I remember" one other thing). It happens when at a stand still. The first time it happened I had just dropped at a star and hadn't throttle up. This last time, again while dead in the water.You need to check the connection between your grip & gimbal base. VKB controllers (probably others too) with throw up comms errors if the connection is flakey.
Usually removing & re-seating the grip, then tightening the clamp properly will do it, it's easy to have the bolt tight but not actually be gripping the grip
You can check the connection & error rates in the VKBDevCfg companion app.
As I said, no issues in other games and the lights indicating a problem don't change, blue and green remain steady. When I've had stick issues the red light comes on and the stick does nothing, it doesn't cause an event it just doesn't respond. But even then it's been a software issue, I've never had to correct any stick issues (except a broken spring) with a mechanical rehab of the stick, and I've owned it for maybe 5 years. The barrel on the bolt and the way it's configured with a cutout make it pretty much TRGT proof. pretty much ensures a proper seating.
One thing of note is the flakey server connection to the game lately. Sometimes it seems to take longer than normal to do anything in game, from connecting to getting the widget to pan smoothly to dropping out of super cruise and other wierdness.
In any case I was able to navigate the lyabrith that is support and submit a ticket. Web site nav. isn't a strong suit for me.
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Easy way to prove or disprove a controller issue, try another controller.
If the issue disappears then its a problem with the VKB...
Also, check you haven't got sticky keys activated and something bound to one of them...
The random factor points to a voltage/current issue.
I own an old reconditioned saitek x56 which only works properly when the following is observed.
1) lowering lighting on hotas overall.
2) throttle plugs into a powered USB 3.0 hub. NOTHING ELSE.
If your hotas is "ghosting", this might remedy it.
GL
I own an old reconditioned saitek x56 which only works properly when the following is observed.
1) lowering lighting on hotas overall.
2) throttle plugs into a powered USB 3.0 hub. NOTHING ELSE.
If your hotas is "ghosting", this might remedy it.
GL