Problem with yaw in my flight stick

Roqinn

Roqinn
Sorry if this is in the wrong section, but I was hoping someone could help me. I have just returned to the game after a few years off and I'm learning to fly again. My problem is that my ship wants to yaw to the right when I'm not touching the stick. It is so bad that I have to twist the stick to the left about 15 - 20 degrees before I am pointing straight forward! I have gone into the settings and changed some and it hasn't helped.
I am using the Logitech Extreme 3D Pro.

Any suggestions? I can't fly like this! Thanks for any help you can give!
Roqinn
 

NilartPax

N
Does logitech have a device manager that lets you see inputs? It might be worth seeing if the device is broken (maybe a few years of storage did it in...), or if it's something about the inputs in the game.
 

michalfoc

M
that sounds like a T1600 thrustmaster issue everybody having... It looks like it's a cheap stick so unless it needs recalibrating as mentioned above by @avow555, I would say internals are busted. search for a stick with hall effect sensors. if You only play casually, get a cheapish one, if You plan on putting more hours into ed or any flight sim for that matters, invest in a better stick. Logitech x56, Warthog, VKB, Virpil. Check my thread out, alot of good guidance from folk here -> MyHOTASThread

I also heard people mod 3ds with hall effect sensors, maybe ask uncle google see what he says.
 

AkenBosch

AkenBosch
Sadly, there are no cheapish sticks using hall sensors for the twist action, I think the "cheapest" one for now is the Gladiator NXT and that's still in the 150-180€/£ bracket (still relatively cheap compared to others). The X56 uses a pot for twist same as T.16000 and the others (and it may fail in the same way), while the Warthog has no twist axis at all.

If the axis movement is smooth but completely off-center, it might just need a good recalibration. Can't remember if Logitech has a specific software for it (aside from the default Windows calibration utility), but worth a look.
 

michalfoc

M
AkenBosch said:
Sadly, there are no cheapish sticks using hall sensors for the twist action, I think the "cheapest" one for now is the Gladiator NXT and that's still in the 150-180€/£ bracket (still relatively cheap compared to others). The X56 uses a pot for twist same as T.16000 and the others (and it may fail in the same way), while the Warthog has no twist axis at all.

If the axis movement is smooth but completely off-center, it might just need a good recalibration. Can't remember if Logitech has a specific software for it (aside from the default Windows calibration utility), but worth a look.
Click to expand...
You are both correct and wrong on this one, I own both and the twist issue is not so much down to the sensor itself as more to the build quality of enclosure itself. 1600 had (and I believe still has) a major flaw in design causing the malfunction of Z axis. I had x56 in bits already after ehm... little accident with a beverage getting spilled too close to it... and there is no point even starting to compare both of them in terms of build and design.
Just to clarify really.
 

AkenBosch

AkenBosch
Yeah I know, I have a green T.16 and just fixed its pot after leaving it failed in its box the last four years. The plastic keeping it in place is laughable, but the issue really is down more to low quality pots than a low quality assembly. Mine lasted years and thousands of hours and got back to nominal work after a good cleaning of the tracks, while on the newer units it seem to give up a lot earlier than that, exactly as it happened with my newer Hotas 4 as well. Unless Logitech improved things on that front after the Saitek acquisition, quality record on the X-5x series isn't exactly stellar either.

That "major flaw" in design with the T.16000 simply isn't there, the major flaw is using sub-par components for the job.
 

michalfoc

M
I am not entirely convinced about lack the flaw, since my issue went away soon as I trimmed that bit of plastic that is suppose to be driving the sensor. Plus cable routing is god awful on thrusmarter, I had to melt the original glue (yes, simple hot melt glue) that kept cables attached to the pot, and reaply it neatly, cus range of motion was limited when twisting right. All went away once I finished with it, but the fact that I had to do it drove me to upgrade.
 

Demente

D
I purchased a thrustmaster top gun and it turned out to be top crap. it was always drifting in every direction. There was only one way i could fix it. and it worked perfectly. I threw it in the garbage where it belonged and got a warthog joystick. it is very accurate and no drift. At first it wouldnt target correctly but simply reloading the software fixed that issue. where it really works great is the other dogfighting games i play. that is the one thing I dont do in Elite as it is just too unrealistic and extreemly one sided. But ya The warthog is awsome but expensive. I also use a throttle from a x52 which was also a mistake but I will eventually replace it with a warthog throttle
 

Roqinn

Roqinn
Thanks for the replies everyone. I have tried to calibrate it in Windows (I'm running Win7), the Logitech Profiler and in the game settings themselves. I have turned down sensitivity and increased deadzones to maximum and, if anything, it is worse now. It was a slower drift to the right. Now it is yawing so badly that I have to twist the stick all the way left just to get it straight. From your posts, it sounds like I just need to get a new stick. That isn't going to happen any time soon because of Covid and no job. Looks like I'm gonna have to give up on flight sims for a while more.

Thanks again everyone! Stay safe!
 

BirdWisdom

BirdWisdom
Roqinn said:
Thanks for the replies everyone. I have tried to calibrate it in Windows (I'm running Win7), the Logitech Profiler and in the game settings themselves. I have turned down sensitivity and increased deadzones to maximum and, if anything, it is worse now. It was a slower drift to the right. Now it is yawing so badly that I have to twist the stick all the way left just to get it straight. From your posts, it sounds like I just need to get a new stick. That isn't going to happen any time soon because of Covid and no job. Looks like I'm gonna have to give up on flight sims for a while more.

Thanks again everyone! Stay safe!
Click to expand...

Try to unplug and plug back the USB and do everything again above and always end everything as apply.

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And sometimes another USB ports helps ;)
 
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leif hansson

L
Besides the un-/replugging which sets the zero data ( I think.. ) you could try to open the stick and apply teflon spray to the yaw pot. That helped with my thrustmaster, but I fear its only temporarily. Bad quality..
 
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