RIFT S ..X56 HOTAS - Key bindings .........what is happening

Gaffa

Gaffa
G'day all,
been a while as I have been happily playing ED. Just recently I purchased the Oculus Rift S and set it all up.
All was working well for the last week or so, as I have had VR before and knew how to set the headset and keybindings up.
But today when I loaded up Oculus and then ED, I find that my key bindings have a mind of their own.
The galaxy map is appearing when it wants to., the system map does the same. Super cruise tries too engage, cargo door is opening etc..
What the hell is going on.. I even flashed up the back up computer with out VR and lo and behold the same is happening.

Does ED ( Frontier suddenly developed a fault ) or is it something else.
Yes I am plugged into a USB 3.0 port.
Assistance would be most gratefully received.
Cheers Cmdr . D38
 
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Meresiga

Meresiga
You have given little information about your game’s settings and what you are using. Keyboard and mouse? Or a joystick? Do you use only the program from Oculus and the game, or you run it through Steam? Have you tried checking the USB port?
 

Gaffa

Gaffa
Meresiga said:
You have given little information about your game’s settings and what you are using. Keyboard and mouse? Or a joystick? Do you use only the program from Oculus and the game, or you run it through Steam? Have you tried checking the USB port?
Click to expand...
Thank you.
I use a X56 HOTAS
I have a dedicated computor that runs only Oculus and Elite Dangeriouse .
Yes I have tried changed over the USB port (USB3.0)
D38
 

VR Skinnerer

V
It sounds like you have the joystick on unpowered USB ports. It is similar to what I was getting (though not as bad as that).
The USB3 port you use, is it on the motherboard, or through a hub? Use the Mobo ports fo the X56 if you can, and dump other stuff onto the hub.
 

aXeL

A
I have the same problem - all the same cr@p that you suffer from. It's nothing to do with power. I've used external and internal USB powered hubs. The internal one takes power, 75W available from the PCIe bus and there's a separate molex connector to a 100A rail supply. At 5V this gives the USB device access to 575W which it could never use and I still have the same problems you do.

Assuming it's not somehow driver related, the only thing I can think of is crosstalk or a capacitance in the wiring looms or contacts inside the casing.

What worked for me - working on the premise that the wiring loom is an issue:

1. Find a throttle position that, when your ship is just sitting in space doing nothing, doesn't result in "ghost presses". ( Of course you have to start by taking on faith that this may work for you so some 'hunting' for the position maybe required ).

2. Separate the throttles ( without moving the right hand one ). The left one actually does the work, the right hand throttle does nothing except mount controls.

3. Live off the left hand throttle and try not to move the right hand one. Mine tends to drift on it's own no matter how I adjust the side dial tension so periodically, the ghost presses will return until I put it back ( mine tends to fall forward ).

As long as I do this, I don't get phantom key presses. I have seen them but then I see that the right hand throttle was out of it's 'safe' position.

Be really interested to see if it works for you. Took me a few days of playing about to get it just right.
 
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Gaffa

Gaffa
G'day, Thank you all for your informative comments.
Last night I installed a PCI USB card , the card sits directly onto the motherboard.
I then hooked up the HOTAS to the PCI board and took the rig for a test drive.
Happily I can report that all is solved.
As a test I hooked up the HOTAS to USB 3 ports and USB 2 ports at the back of the PC and straight away ghosting re-appeared.
Cheers all and again thank you for your assistance
Yours Aye Cmdr. D38
 

Hooplah

Hooplah
aXeL said:
I have the same problem - all the same cr@p that you suffer from. It's nothing to do with power. I've used external and internal USB powered hubs. The internal one takes power, 75W available from the PCIe bus and there's a separate molex connector to a 100A rail supply. At 5V this gives the USB device access to 575W which it could never use and I still have the same problems you do.

Assuming it's not somehow driver related, the only thing I can think of is crosstalk or a capacitance in the wiring looms or contacts inside the casing.

What worked for me - working on the premise that the wiring loom is an issue:

1. Find a throttle position that, when your ship is just sitting in space doing nothing, doesn't result in "ghost presses". ( Of course you have to start by taking on faith that this may work for you so some 'hunting' for the position maybe required ).

2. Separate the throttles ( without moving the right hand one ). The left one actually does the work, the right hand throttle does nothing except mount controls.

3. Live off the left hand throttle and try not to move the right hand one. Mine tends to drift on it's own no matter how I adjust the side dial tension so periodically, the ghost presses will return until I put it back ( mine tends to fall forward ).

As long as I do this, I don't get phantom key presses. I have seen them but then I see that the right hand throttle was out of it's 'safe' position.

Be really interested to see if it works for you. Took me a few days of playing about to get it just right.
Click to expand...
What a creative idea per left throttle only. Of course it is a pain using the right throttle controls.I only have 4 screws on the bottom my my X-56 throttle so I can inspect the wiring when the ghost commands show up. I've only found one kinked purple wire which I corrected but it didn't resolve the issues. I've considered installing ferrite cores. Still the OP posted problem solved with the PCI USB card. I'll change the powered USB hub ports that the X-56 is connected to.

UPDATE: 5 hours later after moving the X-56 to other USB ports on the same powered hub not a single glitch has occurred. Maybe the old school use a powered hub for the X-55 solution still works on the X-56. Now I wonder how long do powered hubs last with mine running for 3 years.
 
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JetsonRING

JetsonRING
The X-56 likes to be connected straight to the computer, it does not like USB hubs, even powered ones so yes, it will take up two USB ports on your PC. Do not use the Rhino profiler software, just bind the buttons, etc. in the game control options and just forget about the "Slide" switch. You will also have to configure pretty significant dead-zones for the joystick axes, if you do not then you will constantly get small, annoying control inputs because the joysticks rarely return to a "true" center.
 

Hooplah

Hooplah
JetsonRING said:
The X-56 likes to be connected straight to the computer, it does not like USB hubs, even powered ones...
Click to expand...
That is incorrect as has been proven over many years using the X-55/56 series with hundreds of internet posts and videos. The problem was some computer motherboards limit and share the amperage between the USB ports thus the 500ma for each port may not be there. Powered hubs provide this for each port satisfying a hungry X-56.

I often wondered for the high cost why didn't Saitek add a powered hub (probably cost them $3.00) and save all those many returns that occurred? Oh well.
 
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aXeL

A
When I switched to an internal USB card, with additional power, it worked for a little while and then all the problems just came back after a number of days. That made me think there was a capacitance effect. Somewhere there is a web page of a guy who fixed the problem permanently by putting proper sleeves on the wiring and ferrite chokes on the looms.

I totally cannot be bothered. Might pay someone to do it though.

Somewhere
 

Sysmon

Sysmon
My X-56 had some issues when I added the VR set as well. I found that keeping the USB connected to a mix of PC and USB hubs were better than keeping them together. Somehow bleed issues I had disappeared that way. Could be that my powered USB hub is only 2.0.

I also found that the September update was the first one to muck up my bindings. I had to recalibrate and rebuild bindings after patch day.

:D S
 

aXeL

A
Sysmon said:
My X-56 had some issues when I added the VR set as well. I found that keeping the USB connected to a mix of PC and USB hubs were better than keeping them together. Somehow bleed issues I had disappeared that way. Could be that my powered USB hub is only 2.0.

I also found that the September update was the first one to muck up my bindings. I had to recalibrate and rebuild bindings after patch day.

:D S
Click to expand...
That's interesting, I wonder if there's a potential difference somewhere between the connection to two different powered devices and hence a path to drain. I am totally guessing. I'm going to give that a whirl. Thanks for the tip.
 

Worminator

W
My X56 was doing the same thing. I bought a cheap Amazon Basics Hub with its own power supply and two quick charge ports. I keep both the stick and throttle plugged into that and I have not had an issue since.
 

curious fish

curious fish
Have Rift CV1 and five separate FL1100 USB 3 controllers ignoring what is built into motherboard. A single controller on a two port card and a four port card with four separate controllers one dedicated to each port. The x56 was on the standalone card. Rift and sensors on the four part card. Still having ghost inputs running the x56 on its own card.

What I finally did was pick up a bag of snap on ferrites and put them on all the USB cables plugged into the machine. Not a single case of ghost inputs in years after doing that.
 

aXeL

A
Thanks curious fish. I wondered if it could be something like that. The idea that it's power related makes no sense ( or I would have always had the problem ). but signal noise would explain it. The fact that some people have success changing hubs just means they're getting less noise on the new hub - nothing to do with power and, moreover, it explains why my hub with a >500W supply makes no difference whatsoever. I bought some a while ago so should have them lying about...

I would also point out that when I have fewer household appliances in use, it's less likely to occur, further supporting your fix.
 
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aXeL

A
Well farbeit from 'staying' resolved, the plot thickens. Despite all the remediation mentioned above by all of us, it started again and with a vengeance. My X56 is unusable in ED now but in the diagnostic window in Windows Devices and Printers, it's not ghosting at all but I did notice something else:

Most/if not all of my joystick's hat switch positions are duplicated by the toggle switches on the throttle. That is to say that, in the diagnostic tool, when I push a toggle on the throttle and light up a button in the App; I quit and go back in to test the flight stick instead and the corresponding hat switch will light up the same button. The hat switches do not activate the hat buttons in the diag tool so something wrong there.

Will do some more testing but my windows update broke my Reverb again so will have to fix it first. Since I'm already nerfed I decided sod it and am now downloading 1903 build.
hit-self-in-head.gif
 
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