Running Multiple HOTAS Brand Devices?

With my X55 dieing a slow death over past few months, I finally took the plunge and upgrade to a Warthog & MFG Crosswind pedals. Although I am super happy with the quality of the joystick, I still like the X55 throttle better (which is still performing perfectly). More comfortable and seems to have better button/switch options for ED... so I was thinking I might keep the X55 throttle and replace the joystick with the Warthog/Crosswind pedals.

I don't expect it will be an issue, but wanted to ask the community if there are anyone else out there who does something similar (or am I the odd duck lol), as in running different brand throttle, joystick & pedals? Any issues, any advice, any setups to share? Will also have my TrackIR on top of this.

Also a side question to other Warthog owners, how long does it take the Warthog joystick to loosen up? I recall my X55 taking about 100hrs. Right now it is so firm (which I like mind you) that it moves my entire desk and screen!! lol Can't really play with it right now unless I create a standalone stand for it.

One other question, has anyone used an extender for the Warthog joystick for ED to increase the height of the joystick? Does it help with precision aiming in ED? Are they a waste of money?

Thanks in Adv!
 
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I have the Warthog joystick and throttle, Crosswind pedals and TrackIR too - I don't have any X55 - and have had no issues whatsoever with them working together. I'd imagine adding in a different throttle won't make much difference as far as ED is concerned.

The only difficulties are having enough USB ports for everything, and trying to figure out what input on the throttle or joystick corresponds with "Joy POV-1 Up" or whatever in the Options screen. It's difficult to find what control is mapped to what - it's easier to just go ahead and re-map them. :)

On the firmness, yeah, it has loosened up a bit. A few weeks after purchase I played for a few hours drunk and the following day it seemed to be much looser. Must have been playing it like I was wrestling an alligator! Stiction is a bit of an issue though.

Regarding the extender, I can't help. I've seen photos of those who've had it done, but I've never had the need.
 
Thanks Who? Yeah USB ports are always a challenge! lol

Stiction, I read a bit about that, haven't looked much into it or to see if my unit has any issues in that regards. Did find a good video for pulling the unit apart to smooth that over and make it better. Hopefully wont be needed tho :)

* Edit - Thanks for the links Lysander! .. was just the one I was thinking of.
 
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Thanks Who? Yeah USB ports are always a challenge! lol

Stiction, I read a bit about that, haven't looked much into it or to see if my unit has any issues in that regards. Did find a good video for pulling the unit apart to smooth that over and make it better. Hopefully wont be needed tho :)

* Edit - Thanks for the links Lysander! .. was just the one I was thinking of.

no problem mate, you will not find a better stick in that price range, even if you get the black mamba, you will need the WH stick on the BM base.
 
I get what you mean about the warthog throttle quad.
Mine's back in the cupboard too.

I roll with my old saitek 3 lever - six button throttle quad and love it.
Well, except that the hall effect sensors are crapping out.

Can I ask for an honest opinion on the MFGs?

I'm pretty sure my next discretionary spend will be oculus but those pedals sure do LOOK fine.
Are they metal? Plastic? what's the build quality like?
 
I used a X55 stick with a T16000M and CH pedals for a long time. No problems except for buttons on different sticks having the same name in the controls screen. That can get confusing.
 
Can I ask for an honest opinion on the MFGs?

I'm pretty sure my next discretionary spend will be oculus but those pedals sure do LOOK fine.
Are they metal? Plastic? what's the build quality like?

The pedals themselves and base are made from some composite material, with the mechanical bits all metal. It's very thick and sturdy, I wouldn't have any reservations about the material. The build quality is excellent, IMO.

If I had to name any drawbacks, it has a Y shaped base, which is actually fine once both feet are on, but as you're putting your foot on or taking it off it'll tip over at the drop of a hat if it's not screwed down. Also it's not particularly heavy, so screwing it down is a good idea. It's not really an option for me, so I ended up resting it on a rubber mat, with some spare dumbbell weights resting on the mat to keep it in situ.

It comes with two cams, which determine the resistance across the range of the 'swing' of the pedals. The default one had too much detent in the centre for me, there's a noticeable (and audible) 'clunk' in the middle. That's great for knowing where the centre is, but is a bit annoying when you're yawing from one side all the way to the other and have that clunk in the middle each time. The second cam (Cam 5 I think) is much smoother. The downside is that it's harder to tell from the feel of the pedals when you're exactly centred, but I'm happy with that.
 
I've used my Warthog Joystick with X65F throttle and CH Pro pedals with no problem.

Edit: I don't use the TARGET software.
 
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I used a X55 stick with a T16000M and CH pedals for a long time. No problems except for buttons on different sticks having the same name in the controls screen. That can get confusing.
It's confusing with only the X55, the buttons are named the same for stick, and throttle.
 
Thanks for everyone's comments/feedback!

Can I ask for an honest opinion on the MFGs?

I actually haven't used them .. yet :) No gaming time recently and haven't taken the plunge to change all my controls over etc. Hopefully soon. Need to build a standalone stand for my Warthog joystick since it moves my screen/desk like crazy on my current brackets. So few things to sort out by the time Engineers update hits.

From the look and feel .. they are exceptional. Oozes quality just looking at them/using them unplugged. The kinda device that you look at and see that it will last a long time. Solid, weighty, smooth motion, very adjustable. Think they are wooden CNC cut, finished in a nice white finish, with some metal components.

This is my first set of yaw pedals, so I have a feeling it will be like learning to fly all over again lol!

Still tempted at the extender for the Warthog too, but they are fairly expensive to buy, so was hoping someone else may have taken the plunge and let me know if its was worth it for them.
 
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If I had to name any drawbacks, it has a Y shaped base, which is actually fine once both feet are on, but as you're putting your foot on or taking it off it'll tip over at the drop of a hat if it's not screwed down. Also it's not particularly heavy, so screwing it down is a good idea. It's not really an option for me, so I ended up resting it on a rubber mat, with some spare dumbbell weights resting on the mat to keep it in situ.

It comes with two cams, which determine the resistance across the range of the 'swing' of the pedals. The default one had too much detent in the centre for me, there's a noticeable (and audible) 'clunk' in the middle. That's great for knowing where the centre is, but is a bit annoying when you're yawing from one side all the way to the other and have that clunk in the middle each time. The second cam (Cam 5 I think) is much smoother. The downside is that it's harder to tell from the feel of the pedals when you're exactly centred, but I'm happy with that.

Re: Cams and centering:
Q: So the tensions are not smoothly adjustable - you change out a part to get a different response feel?


Re: Screwing Down:
Uh, I might have got a bit carried away with my rig.
The chair is on castors and detatches with that CAUTION lever on the right hand side.
Decay%20Rig%20ED.jpg


Solid, weighty, smooth motion, very adjustable. Think they are wooden CNC cut, finished in a nice white finish, with some metal components.

!! Wait that's Wood?
As in MDF or ply or marine ply or proper timber?

Wood is a bit of a no-no where I am.
MDF sucks up the humidity, (anything structural gets eaten by trmites or rots).
Mind you thats a lot of ply under the paint on my rig.
 
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I might be wrong DNA-Decay - sorry. I am just taking a closer look. If it is wood, then it must be proper timber because it has some weight to it (just holding one foot mount in my hand). Just checked the site, and says its a composite material (composed of what tho :)). If it is wood base then it is coated well. Cut out sections have black (almost plastic type) inserts, with the surface covered in a while melimine(?) coating. I wouldn't see humidity being an issue - nothing is exposed.
 
Re: Cams and centering:
Q: So the tensions are not smoothly adjustable - you change out a part to get a different response feel?


Re: Screwing Down:
Uh, I might have got a bit carried away with my rig.
The chair is on castors and detatches with that CAUTION lever on the right hand side.

You can adjust the amount of tension/resistance by turning a screw holding the spring and/or attaching the spring to a different notch. But to adjust the feel across the range you swap out the cam; 2 came with mine and there's an optional 3rd. It's an easy change with an allen key.

You can also adjust the angle and resistance (I think) of the pedals & toe-brakes as well.

I think you should be fine since you seem to have a grippy mat under the seat & pedals. Mine's on a wooden floor, and without anything to hold it, it'd slip backwards. The rubber mat & weights work perfectly for me.
 
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