Thrustmaster T16000 stick yaw to right fault, is it fixed now? Does anyome know?

Hi there,

I'm still downloading a fresh copy of ED right now after resetting my PC OS the other month to fix a hacking problem, ETA seems to be about 2 days, and I'm trying to spend a bit of time catching up on all the changes that have occurred during this time. Been out of the loop on a break from the game since late 2020 after burning out from racking up the credits grind mining painite. Back then my newer T16000 was yawing to the right a lot after just a few hours of use, and I soon realised this was a universally common problem, so I had switched over to using a similarly priced Logitech stick, which worked fine, has one extra button, but I still prefer the feel, button placements and lower physical resistance of the Thrustmaster stick, especially when in combat situations, because it's more comfortable and accurate in my hand.

My question is during the past two years have FD or Thrustmaster found a fix for this issue yet, or is it still an ongoing problem does anyone know? I really would much prefer to go back to using my T16000, and would consider buying a new stick on it's own if I knew it was guaranteed to work this time if it was a hardware fault.

Thanks - Si
 
A friend of mine purchased it earlier this year (or over christmas, I can't remember) and has recently started seeing the first signs of the yaw drift.
The stick was brand new, but I cannot be sure if it was an old batch, or newly manufactured: in any case, I would consider that the issue is still there, and that not changes have been made to the design.

This having been said, I had the same problem and, after a few attempts to fix it, based on similar experiences found on the internet, I think I have managed to find a solution that works for me (cleaing the potentiometer, gluing it in the correct position so that it does start moving accidentally inside the stick after a few hours, and filing some of the internal ribs that apply undue pressure due to plastic deformation over time).
I haven't had a problem with it for over a year, now. (But I appreciate that fixing a joystick is not everyone's cup of tea).

I reckon that if you buy a T16000, you're going to have the same problem again, I am afraid.
 
Dunno If it helps but for my x56 I run a calibration tool and create a custom curve for yaw pitch etc. I also create a dead zone ingame. Increasing it as needed to stop the stick and throttle being so sensitive drifting in "neutral" is eliminated thus.
Finally I've a 3d printed aftermarket "detent" which gives me a hard neutral notch which the deadzone aligns with.
This device clips onto the throttle.
 
A friend of mine purchased it earlier this year (or over christmas, I can't remember) and has recently started seeing the first signs of the yaw drift.
The stick was brand new, but I cannot be sure if it was an old batch, or newly manufactured: in any case, I would consider that the issue is still there, and that not changes have been made to the design.

This having been said, I had the same problem and, after a few attempts to fix it, based on similar experiences found on the internet, I think I have managed to find a solution that works for me (cleaing the potentiometer, gluing it in the correct position so that it does start moving accidentally inside the stick after a few hours, and filing some of the internal ribs that apply undue pressure due to plastic deformation over time).
I haven't had a problem with it for over a year, now. (But I appreciate that fixing a joystick is not everyone's cup of tea).

I reckon that if you buy a T16000, you're going to have the same problem again, I am afraid.
Ok, I think I might have a go at trying your fix recomendation. If I mess something up it's probably not going to matter, because I've still got a Logitech stick that works, and I won't likely be using the Thrustmaster for anything else other than ED. The annoying thing about this is that my first T16000 was working fine, but I sold it at the end of 2019 because I needed some quick cash and thought that I could just buy another unit later when I wanted to go back to the game, assuming it would be fine. The old T16000 was a great piece of kit and a massive upgrade with its excellently designed throttle complete with it's extensive buttons and four way hat switches compared to my old HOTAS X units which I had got through three of, because the cheaper button switches kept failing.
 
I got about 2.5 years out of my T16000 before the handle twist went SPROING and it got stuck on permanent yaw input. Replaced it with a VKB Gladiator that's been going strong for 5 years.
 
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