Thrustmaster T16000M FCS hardware problems

conceit

conceit
Hi.. My wife just started to play ED as well a few weeks ago, and it wasn't for long she was stealing my HOTAS. So, I decided to gift her a Thrustmaster T16000 TCM Hotas setup. It's a wonderful stick (I have an X52 pro and envy the analogue stick on the throttle section).

But, every now and the the stick stops working. Completely. In Windows 10, on the stick's settings page, it shows no reaction as well. Unplugging and re-plugging the usb plug always solves this issue. I'm not sure if this is ED related or simply happens.

Is there a known software or driver problem? Or is this a common hardware/quality issue? Incompatibilies? Share your wisdom... Thanks.
 

Speedy O

Speedy O
Issues like this can sometimes be solved by swapping to a different usb input.

IIRC I had similar issues when using a usb2, but swapped to a usb3 hub into a usb3 on the back of my computer and it hasn’t happened since....
 

Bryan K

Bryan K
Odd, my T.16000M has been faultless so far, as has the throttle unit (apart from some sticking that was promptly resolved by loosening the tension screw). Even after wrenching it all over the place while fighting Thargoids, it still works perfectly.
 

the100thmonkey

the100thmonkey
conceit said:
Hi.. My wife just started to play ED as well a few weeks ago, and it wasn't for long she was stealing my HOTAS. So, I decided to gift her a Thrustmaster T16000 TCM Hotas setup. It's a wonderful stick (I have an X52 pro and envy the analogue stick on the throttle section).

But, every now and the the stick stops working. Completely. In Windows 10, on the stick's settings page, it shows no reaction as well. Unplugging and re-plugging the usb plug always solves this issue. I'm not sure if this is ED related or simply happens.

Is there a known software or driver problem? Or is this a common hardware/quality issue? Incompatibilies? Share your wisdom... Thanks.
Click to expand...
Are you using the TARGET software?

Windows 10's power management features are needlessly aggressive for a desktop gaming machine. They work well for tablets and laptops, no doubt, but they're meant for people lying on a sofa reading news websites or messing around on Facebook, not gamers. If you run a TARGET script, the joystick will be replaced with a Thrustmaster Virtual Game Controller (Root). You can check whether this is active by hitting the Super key, typing "joy.cpl" and running that program (it's the Game Controllers applet). It will list all the attached joystick devices in a human-readable format. If you see "Thrustmaster Virtual Game Controller (Root)," then Windows will actually shut off the power to the USB port that the stick is connected to because it believes that the device "T16000.M" has been disconnected. :rolleyes:

To fix this, there's a really useful program called USBDeview (scroll down to the bottom of the page for the download link).
  • With the joystick connected and TARGET not running, run USBDeview.
  • Find the T16000.M entry.
  • Right click and select "Open in RegEdit".
  • Regedit will open with the device ID highlighted.
  • Expand the registry entry (click on the arrow.)
  • Click the "Device Parameters" folder (don't expand the entry; you don't need to.)
  • There is an entry for "EnhancedPowerManagementEnabled". Double click on it.
  • Change the DWORD value from 1 to 0.
  • Restart your computer. Windows should no longer send the device to sleep.
This change is often reverted automatically by Windows on an update, so you'll need to change it back from time to time.

viper666 said:
Windows 10, probably one of Microsofts updates. Go to manage my computer, select USB root device, disable power saving option.
Try another USB port. HTH o7 commander.
Click to expand...
Aye - on a major update (like the Fall Creators Update), Windows will basically rewrite the registry, and custom registry values like EnahncedPowerManagement=0 for USB devices gets overwritten. If you re-enable the option and then switch USB port, though, you'll just have to set the power management value again: Windows stores settings for individual devices on a local identifier, not via the hardware ID.
 

conceit

conceit
Thanks so far. Power management is probably a good hint. I'll check that. By the way, Target is not installed, just the drivers freshly downloaded from the Thrustmaster homepage.
 

So Liong

S
Hi guy's.
I got same problem of "Thrustmaster Virtual Game Controller (Root)" when I try to run dual stick from Thrustmaster with TARGET.
I folow the process to fix that but I am not able to change the value of EnahncedPowerManagement from 1 to 0. I get an error who say that it cannot be rewriting... I work on dell laptop g5 if it can help.
Anyone have any idea how can I fix this?
Thanks.
 

Susanna

Susanna
I've had a couple of these hotas and use one now. I have never experienced this issue of the hotas cutting out. So I'm sorry to hear that your wife is experiencing this problem. I don't have any suggestions for fixing it but those already suggested are good ones.
It's not the greatest hotas but is fit for purpose if you are a casual gamer, and yes that joystick on the throttle is a really great feature! It gives me 6 degrees of freedom with the throttle back paddle too. Perfect for landing on a pad or planet. 🙂 Any hotas worth buying has to have this imo.
 

GunnerBill

GunnerBill
Speedy O said:
Issues like this can sometimes be solved by swapping to a different usb input.

IIRC I had similar issues when using a usb2, but swapped to a usb3 hub into a usb3 on the back of my computer and it hasn’t happened since....
Click to expand...

I've been running the same HOTAS setup for several years and this issue rings a bell. All is fine now but for a while I had issues with a particular port so stopped using it and plugged in a wifi keyboard instead.

Some driver issue, a hardware issue with the port or some other random incompatibility that may simply disappear after an update.
 

VR StarLightPL

VR StarLightPL
Old thread, but... I have similar problem with my T16000, sometimes the stick just refuses to cooperate after being plugged. You can tell it's happening because the light on the base is not working when moving the stick, or it's stuck in "on" state. Unplugging and replugging helps, just do a slight delay between plugging the stick again. It's not related to Elite, like posters before mentioned it's either buggy power management or broken USB data in Windows. Sometimes there are "ghost devices", sometimes there's a clash on the device id, what have you. It also might indicate that your Windows install could use a refresher (reinstall) because of old bugs piling up :)
 

GroG79

G
Most common cause is not enough power being delivered on the USB. These USB devices are all plug and play so drivers only unlock additional options.

Swapping USB hub (two ports share the same power, use different USB blocks) might be effective. Alternatively you can purchase a powered USB hub for additional Amps
 

So Liong

S
VR StarLightPL said:
Old thread, but... I have similar problem with my T16000, sometimes the stick just refuses to cooperate after being plugged. You can tell it's happening because the light on the base is not working when moving the stick, or it's stuck in "on" state. Unplugging and replugging helps, just do a slight delay between plugging the stick again. It's not related to Elite, like posters before mentioned it's either buggy power management or broken USB data in Windows. Sometimes there are "ghost devices", sometimes there's a clash on the device id, what have you. It also might indicate that your Windows install could use a refresher (reinstall) because of old bugs piling up :)
Click to expand...
Are you using TARGET software with your T16K?
Coz my problem happen only while TARGET's running. I dont have any problem with ED but I need TARGET for curves and to rebind the left T16K's buttons. (Dual stick)
 

So Liong

S
So, I finally did it so if someone get that issue one day...
First of all, I couldnt change the value of the EnahncedPowerManagement coz I had to execute it as an administrator ( my bad😅) and even after did that, I had to remove the driver I downloaded from the Thrustmaster web site... I dont know why but it work without and both stick are now powered while running TARGET.
Hope it can help.
Thx for your time.
o7 cmdrs
 

Llandrenel

Llandrenel
Speedy O said:
Issues like this can sometimes be solved by swapping to a different usb input.

IIRC I had similar issues when using a usb2, but swapped to a usb3 hub into a usb3 on the back of my computer and it hasn’t happened since....
Click to expand...
This.

I've been using the T.16000 for a few years now and I learned early on that if it's in the wrong port it won't work.
 

CMDR X

CMDR X
Make sure to only plug it into a USB 2.0 connector and not 3.0, on your PC. The 2.0 are usually black/white and the 3.0 are blue, IIRC.
 

Happy Cabbage

H
the100thmonkey said:
Are you using the TARGET software?

Windows 10's power management features are needlessly aggressive for a desktop gaming machine. They work well for tablets and laptops, no doubt, but they're meant for people lying on a sofa reading news websites or messing around on Facebook, not gamers. If you run a TARGET script, the joystick will be replaced with a Thrustmaster Virtual Game Controller (Root). You can check whether this is active by hitting the Super key, typing "joy.cpl" and running that program (it's the Game Controllers applet). It will list all the attached joystick devices in a human-readable format. If you see "Thrustmaster Virtual Game Controller (Root)," then Windows will actually shut off the power to the USB port that the stick is connected to because it believes that the device "T16000.M" has been disconnected. :rolleyes:

To fix this, there's a really useful program called USBDeview (scroll down to the bottom of the page for the download link).
  • With the joystick connected and TARGET not running, run USBDeview.
  • Find the T16000.M entry.
  • Right click and select "Open in RegEdit".
  • Regedit will open with the device ID highlighted.
  • Expand the registry entry (click on the arrow.)
  • Click the "Device Parameters" folder (don't expand the entry; you don't need to.)
  • There is an entry for "EnhancedPowerManagementEnabled". Double click on it.
  • Change the DWORD value from 1 to 0.
  • Restart your computer. Windows should no longer send the device to sleep.
This change is often reverted automatically by Windows on an update, so you'll need to change it back from time to time.

Aye - on a major update (like the Fall Creators Update), Windows will basically rewrite the registry, and custom registry values like EnahncedPowerManagement=0 for USB devices gets overwritten. If you re-enable the option and then switch USB port, though, you'll just have to set the power management value again: Windows stores settings for individual devices on a local identifier, not via the hardware ID.
Click to expand...
Thank you for that, it solved my problem completely.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom