Tips for building a cool Elite Dangerous setup

vrod

vrod
Most commanders would love a cool looking and functioning setup, but lack the funds or knowledge to do so.

This is what I have added into my cockpit recently.


JJSQtmpm.jpg


It was made in about a day just a few minutes at a time.
Cheap and thin glossy pressboard was used, as was quick-drying wood glue, a file, sandpaper, and a saw. (A dremmel saw works good too!)

I used pressboard and cutout the desired panel shape. A hole was cut-out so this old phone display can be seen. (hole is slightly smaller than the phone) The pressboard that seems to work best has glossy sides. (makes for a nicer painted surface)
nnuJqFCm.jpg


Leg supports were added (the width of the phone) and some spacers were added where the phone sits. Notches were cutout in the spacers so the power or volume buttons do not touch when the phone is pushed inside. (Make it so you can put the phone in either way.)
TzF8KVIm.jpg


Next, a backplate. Make sure you add a void in it somewhere, so you can pull your phone out if it is a tight fit. Also, you may pay attention to where your phone charger plug is at. If the phone has an old battery or runs out of juice fast, you may end up leaving a charging cable plugged into it. Make sure you take that into account during the build.
qEYidNVm.jpg


Next, I know that you are already excited at this point and want to show it off to your friends...but DON'T! Add some icing to the cake!
Some fake buttons were cutout of the same pressboard material. Take your time and cut straight lines! It pays off in the end.
RvGBgHOm.jpg


Fake buttons are all glued in place. They are all a little long. This is done on purpose. You want to take your time and file/sand them down smooth later.
R5vmBhTm.jpg


Here are the buttons sanded smooth. Some beveled edges were added to the buttons with extra filing/sanding.
Also, a glare-shield was added.
IBLu25Xm.jpg


Didn't want the glare-shield to look boring, so some structural elements were added. (Does add some strength in case it is bumped.)
YU8ZE6Rm.jpg


Now for a little paint. All I had was some glossy, liquid acrylic paint. Spray paint would probably look even better!
vDliuhfm.jpg


Wow! Looking good. The side console panels are not even mated properly yet either!
IMtB7MNm.jpg


Now install Roccat Power Grid on your old phone (and computer) and install a grid (or make one). Slide the phone in place.
NOW call your friends to check it out! (new panel made today, on right, matches the one made a few days ago, on left.)
jtIy6zqm.jpg


The hardest thing to do is to simply get started.

Stay tuned for more cockpit tips!
 
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777Driver

777Driver
Pretty awesome man! All I can say is thank the gods for VR, used to spend ridiculous amount of cash on multi monitors. My girlfriend used to go crazy, every time I walked into a store I'd be checking out the latest 4K 50+ inch TV's, then tripling the price and staring at my credit card! A single HMD blew that all out of the water for way cheaper.

Would love to build a cockpit from old fighter jet parts for my old man though, easy to do in America, here in the UK we are screwed.
 
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ThriveInDark

T
vrod said:
Most commanders would love a cool looking and functioning setup, but lack the funds or knowledge to do so.

This is what I have added into my cockpit recently.


http://i.imgur.com/JJSQtmpm.jpg

It was made in about a day just a few minutes at a time.
Cheap and thin glossy pressboard was used, as was quick-drying wood glue, a file, sandpaper, and a saw. (A dremmel saw works good too!)

I used pressboard and cutout the desired panel shape. A hole was cut-out so this old phone display can be seen. (hole is slightly smaller than the phone) The pressboard that seems to work best has glossy sides. (makes for a nicer painted surface)
http://i.imgur.com/nnuJqFCm.jpg

Leg supports were added (the width of the phone) and some spacers were added where the phone sits. Notches were cutout in the spacers so the power or volume buttons do not touch when the phone is pushed inside. (Make it so you can put the phone in either way.)
http://i.imgur.com/TzF8KVIm.jpg

Next, a backplate. Make sure you add a void in it somewhere, so you can pull your phone out if it is a tight fit. Also, you may pay attention to where your phone charger plug is at. If the phone has an old battery or runs out of juice fast, you may end up leaving a charging cable plugged into it. Make sure you take that into account during the build.
http://i.imgur.com/qEYidNVm.jpg

Next, I know that you are already excited at this point and want to show it off to your friends...but DON'T! Add some icing to the cake!
Some fake buttons were cutout of the same pressboard material. Take your time and cut straight lines! It pays off in the end.
http://i.imgur.com/RvGBgHOm.jpg

Fake buttons are all glued in place. They are all a little long. This is done on purpose. You want to take your time and file/sand them down smooth later.
http://i.imgur.com/R5vmBhTm.jpg

Here are the buttons sanded smooth. Some beveled edges were added to the buttons with extra filing/sanding.
Also, a glare-shield was added.
http://i.imgur.com/IBLu25Xm.jpg

Didn't want the glare-shield to look boring, so some structural elements were added. (Does add some strength in case it is bumped.)
http://i.imgur.com/YU8ZE6Rm.jpg

Now for a little paint. All I had was some glossy, liquid acrylic paint. Spray paint would probably look even better!
http://i.imgur.com/vDliuhfm.jpg

Wow! Looking good. The side console panels are not even mated properly yet either!
http://i.imgur.com/IMtB7MNm.jpg

Now install Roccat Power Grid on your old phone (and computer) and install a grid (or make one). Slide the phone in place.
NOW call your friends to check it out! (new panel made today, on right, matches the one made a few days ago, on left.)
http://i.imgur.com/jtIy6zqm.jpg

The hardest thing to do is to simply get started.

Stay tuned for more cockpit tips!
Click to expand...

Definitely wicked man. Good creativity with cheap and easy tools/materials. I can't wait to build my setup (I'm a woodworker), my problem is still needing to buy the HOTAS/headtracker/2 more screens makes my wallet cry and brain hurt. I'm also considering just going VR (more cost effective), which would render a cockpit pointless, but I kind of think with a well done cockpit would be even more immersive than VR once I added in good speakers and maybe feedback for the chair
 

vrod

vrod
777Driver said:
Pretty awesome man! All I can say is thank the gods for VR, used to spend ridiculous amount of cash on multi monitors. My girlfriend used to go crazy, every time I walked into a store I'd be checking out the latest 4K 50+ inch TV's, then tripling the price and staring at my credit card! A single HMD blew that all out of the water for way cheaper.

Would love to build a cockpit from old fighter jet parts for my old man though, easy to do in America, here in the UK we are screwed.
Click to expand...

My 3 TV's (combined price) was under $900.
Keep in mind that these are 39" (not 50"+) and also 1k (not 4k).

The issue with 4k TV's is the refresh rate. When I checked, most were 30hz. I wanted at least 60hz.

Also, with 4k you need some monster graphics card(s) to push all those pixels.

I bought (2) 980TI's (SLI mode) and they were pricey for their time. They would not push (3) 4k tvs very well, if at all.


I considered VR, but will wait until there is a larger FOV. I don't want to feel like I have a scuba mask on and need to turn my head to see 'the big picture'. Right now, I see 'the big picture' without moving my head. The view extends to nearly my peripheral vision. I also like the look and feel of real instruments and lights as opposed to virtual ones. (at least for now)

Augmented Reality glasses would be the best for me. I could see my own instruments, but overlay the game everywhere else.
 

vrod

vrod
This is the brains behind my setup;

DzUfphB.jpg


This is my center button-console. Hot-glued to the rear of it is a Win I-Pac Ultimarc. (shown on top) All the buttons and LEDs are controlled from it. I can add 14 LEDs and (I think) 6 more switches, then it is maxed out. If/when another is added, I can add another 50+ switches and 96 more LEDs!
 

DarkPaladin

DarkPaladin
I always wonder why more people don't use Ultimark products for switch panels. I guess the fact that I've been in the arcade hobby for years makes me assume that everybody knows about them.
 

vrod

vrod
I know.
Very easy to use.
I use LEDBlinky to control the LEDs and AutoHotKey to interpret/execute the commands to the LEDs.
i may get another Ultimarc for buttons and lights on the right console.
 

UselessThing

UselessThing
The duck tape is a remnant of the proof of concept demonstrator:-

Nhk7QI3.jpg


I also wasn't sure the cheapo plastic clamps I bought to secure V2.0 to the chair would be sufficient, so the tape was standing by in case it was required to add rigidity.
 

UselessThing

UselessThing
The central pilot support structure is... a remarkably comfortable chair I appropriated for gaming when it became apparent it had become Too Low for its original owner to easily get in and out of.

It is certainly quite nice to be able to rock gently during long hauling sessions.

--

It's only plugged in to a PS4 pro, so all I really want to do now is splice in a longer cable between the throttle and stick so I don't need to move them when I stand up.

I believe it is just a bit of network cable but I've not wired such before and I don't want to knacker the stick so I am putting it off.

Still, I do now *so want* to get a full on gaming PC with VR and better HOTAS and everything set up.
 

Zebaoth

Zebaoth
One thing most people underestimate and often miss out on:

Speakers.

Do yourself a favor and get a decent 5.1 set up (full sized speakers for all channels) with a sub-woofer that's able to reach down to 20Hz.

You have no idea how much stuff is happening in the lower ranges of the frequency spectrum in this game.

Take the all known "honk" as an example, when the charge-up is complete, half a second after triggering the actual "honk" there's all kinds of stuff shifting air in the lowest frequencies.
This is nothing you can experience with headphones, even the most expensive ones will not reproduce this kind of sound, since the membrane is too close to your ears.
Experiencing something like this with a decent set up makes you really feel as if the entire system was made aware of your presence (and at least half of the neighborhood).

Then there's the mail slot.
I usually have the amp turned up to a point where you can feel cannon sounds and physical collisions of your ship carried through the air making the HOTAS chassis vibrate.
The mail slot is a whole nother story, made me almost fall out of my chair the very first time I went through it.

If you don't own such a 5.1 set up but know one who does, you owe it to the ED audio team to carry your PC over and play elite on it.
 

vrod

vrod
Sound is a great point! I still need to improve upon mine.
For bass, I have a 'frankenstein' amplified gaming chair. (The circuit boards/amp from an X-rocker and the chair and speaker is from my old Thunderseat). I feel the bass in my body!
 

vrod

vrod
Started on the upper canopy today. (I have been missing the total immersion that my prior cockpit room had.)
Instead of building it into the wall/ceiling (like I could do with my prior house), I am using lightweight materials that will be portable when the time comes to move or disassemble.
6pzrULj.jpg


I am using thick foam for the main structure. Thin wood strips are embedded into the corners for added strength. It will get recovered with some sort of veneer when done. Either side is cardboard for the moment. The foam panels are not completed for that yet.

Have to decide, if I want to try and buy back my old electronics that I left behind in the USA or just build some new stuff. (To put in the upper canopy) I'll worry about that once the entire canopy is done.

There is a big button right in front of the joystick. It was planned to use that to turn on/off the computer. Well, the time is nearly there. Once the canopy is completed, I will not be able to easily reach the power button on my computer. (Computer sits behind the center monitor.)

There is a panel that still needs extra details and painting (the mouse dock), and the wooden consoles need a facelift. This will get tackled once I get tired of working on the canopy. ;)
 

vrod

vrod
Cardboard prototyping

The upper canopy (above monitors only) is complete (minus electronics of course). The cardboard is somewhat new. (forming ideas) [cool]
XQz5UMh.jpg


Due to the wierd angles, I used cardboard as test-fit pieces. Worked great! A little hot-glue keeps it together for now.
(Note the single wire was my attempt to watch TV. The attempt did not work. TV is over-rated anyway. (haven't watched it in years.)

FAHmwpj.jpg


Once the plan is ready to be implemented, I'll pull off the cardboard and use it as templates for the permanent walls/canopy.
The plan is difficult, because I still want to be able to access the cabinet doors to the right (interior) of the cockpit. So, the right ceiling will need to be removable or hinged.


This next pic shows where my cockpit 'lives'. It is way in the corner, behind a wall of cabinets. I could seal it off, however the cabinets are nearly 7' tall. Also, the open space above gives the heat (from computer and equipment) a place to escape.

dZUKoIW.jpg



Lastly, an idea that a hatch MIGHT get added. Most likely when I get this far, it will get added.

09UAsrA.jpg


Note that my computer is directly behind the center monitor. For now, I lift up the left roof/canopy section (it is hinged to the middle section) to turn it on. The plan is to wire it up to the big green p-button on the console one day. I need to figure out how I can move the upper right ceiling. Cannot hinge it as the ceiling is too low for it to open. Anyway, right now I have no way to access the rear of my computer. (at least not easily) This will have to get figured out before I can proceed to the nice looking stuff.

Anyway, the heat from the computer and TV's, float up and over the canopy roof. The air flow is not impeded at all, and I am separated from the heat. ! yep cool! Even if the door gets added, there is ample airflow beneath the wall of cabinets (cool air intake).


Cardboard and hot-glue are cheap and fast to use! Really helps the imagination for new ideas!
 
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