Windows 11 Secure Boot Problem.

Jumpin' Jack Flash

Jumpin' Jack Flash
Hi All, :)

I finally got round to rebuilding a new computer.
Here are the basic hardware specs.

Asus Rog Strix Z690-A-Gaming WiFi D4 LGA 1700 socket.
Intel Core i5 12600 s LGA 1700.
Fractal ION 2 Platinum 850 Watt PSU.
1 TB Crucial BX SSD.
16 GB Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 3200 mhz Ram (8x8)
Silentium Fortis 5 ARGB Cooler.
Windows 10 Retail Version.
* MSI Radeon R7950 3GB Twin Frozr OC. Boost Edition.
Coolermaster Haf X Case.
Oh just thought to add @Morbad and Riverside :) , I removed the cpu socket latch mechanism and fitted the Thermalright cpu bending correction plate kit.*

Okay, so I assembled the parts, connected the power. switched on the comp.
Computer booted into the bios, left the bios at defaults, installed windows 10.
Everything seemed to be running okay. shut down and startup behaving normally.
BTW. I had to go into my Microsoft Account and (delete the old original pc) transfer the software to the new computer, registered the software's activation screen as a new build. No problems as such. As a Side note though....I %^&*($% hate Microsoft...just couldn't get further into the installation without typing in my accounts password. Just a personal thing, my other comp's installation of Win 10 for some reason didn't require this. Which I prefer. 🤔

Checked to see if the new build conformed to Windows 11 requirements. It was one of the main reasons I built the new comp. in the first place.
Surprise surprise, the Windows 11 check came up with something like this....Your PC needs to Support Secure boot.

Right, this is where it all went pear shaped. o_O
I went into the bios and sure enough the secure boot wasn't enabled. So I changed it to the required setting, saved and exited.
Result was in short, the computer refused to boot into the bios, blank screen, and wouldn't load windows either. Computer kept trying to boot up and then restarting continuously.

Cutting a long story short, re-flashed the bios*, computer booted up normally.
Computer still needs to be set to secure boot, according to the Windows 11 health check app. so at the moment I'm still using Win 10.
I 'think' I've narrowed down the problem to the graphics card. It doesn't have the required bios requirements to enable me to use secure boot?

Anyway, thought to post it up here for any advice, solutions or workarounds to get my comp windows 11 compliant.

Jack :)
  • CPU Temperatures at the moment when idle is around 27-28 degrees Celsius, up to 32 degrees when playing Elite Horizons, using the Armoury Krate app. Auto fan function. The temps. are fairly low? so I'm assuming the Thermalright frame has done its job. :) plus the Cooler.
  • R 7950 GPU, yes it's old but I'm using it for now until I get (afford) a new one, either a GeForce or Radion one.
* Bios Version installed 1720. The current newest bios is 2004 but the reason I've installed the 1720 version rather than the 2004 one is because of this...2004 version "This version does NOT allow rolling back to the previous versions, not even via USB BIOS FlashBack™, to ensure better compatibility." :cautious:
 
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varonica

varonica
Jumpin' Jack Flash said:
Right, this is where it all went pear shaped. o_O
I went into the bios and sure enough the secure boot wasn't enabled. So I changed it to the required setting, saved and exited.
Result was in short, the computer refused to boot into the bios, blank screen, and wouldn't load windows either. Computer kept trying to boot up and then restarting continuously.
Click to expand...

It certainly did;

Secure Boot must be enabled before an operating system is installed. If an operating system was installed while Secure Boot was disabled, it will not support Secure Boot and a new installation is required. Secure Boot requires a recent version of UEFI.
Click to expand...

Seems you will need to boot from a boot CD and re-install from scratch!
 

Jumpin' Jack Flash

Jumpin' Jack Flash
Hi varonica :)

varonica said:
It certainly did;



Seems you will need to boot from a boot CD and re-install from scratch!
Click to expand...
I naturally assumed the motherboard straight out of the box would have the secure boot enabled by default?...(well, seeing as some literature on the web and the Asus site led me to believe). Though must admit, never actually checked in the bios beforehand, before I did the install. Installation was done on a new clean 1TB SSD btw.
I probably need to do a clean install anyway at some time, so I'll enable SBoot then....and see what happens....should be fun! :D
I'm already at the point where installing Win11 seems a pain in the.....:unsure:, do I really need it at the moment. :rolleyes:
Jack :)
 

Jumpin' Jack Flash

Jumpin' Jack Flash
Hi Codger, :)

Codger said:
I'm gonna wait for Windows 12 I think. My machine does not support Windows 11 (and it's a pretty new machine), and the horror stories are everywhere.
Click to expand...
Yes, I've spent a few hours over the last few days trawling the web on this kind of topic. there seems to be trouble everywhere, even with (Like myself) new recent hardware. MSI and Asus MB's and GPU's, all in the mix.

Jack :)
 
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varonica

varonica
Jumpin' Jack Flash said:
Hi varonica :)


I naturally assumed the motherboard straight out of the box would have the secure boot enabled by default?...(well, seeing as some literature on the web and the Asus site led me to believe). Though must admit, never actually checked in the bios beforehand, before I did the install. Installation was done on a new clean 1TB SSD btw.
I probably need to do a clean install anyway at some time, so I'll enable SBoot then....and see what happens....should be fun! :D
I'm already at the point where installing Win11 seems a pain in the.....:unsure:, do I really need it at the moment. :rolleyes:
Jack :)
Click to expand...

Yeah I used to work in IT and assembled PC's, in the earlier days you couldn't even assume the power supply setting was on 240v and not 110v, you learned to check that pretty quick I can tell you, doesn't take many of those to teach you something!
 

Jumpin' Jack Flash

Jumpin' Jack Flash
@ Space Skimmer :) Important!

Just to let you know, The Fortis cooler.
On the Asus Strix Motherboard the cooler doesn't fit in the recommended position because the heat pipes foul the motherboard heatsinks so you can't position the heat pipe base on to the CPU. You can only fit it either with the fan assembly facing downwards (fan pushing air upwards to the top of the motherboard / case). and even then you need to probably have low profile ram I think.
The only way I could fit it was to have the cooler turned 180 degrees, the fan rubber dampers removed, the fan itself reversed and the clips fitted so it then it pulled air through the cooler, and out to the back of the case. Even then, the heat pipes were almost touching the motherboard heatsinks. When the fan was fitted it only just managed to slip down towards a central position on the cooler between the cooler body and the large heatsink (the one with the Strix Logo) to the left side of the board. That's why I had to remove the rubber fan mountings. There was no vibration noticed with the fan itself so it's okay.
There is enough room to fit the two C.V. Pro ram sticks, but no way to fit a Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro in the first left hand slot.

In short, it's not the ideal air cooler to fit to a Rog Strix Motherboard. I didn't want the hassle of sending the cooler back or the ram so this was the best compromise at the time.
When I got the cooler fitted with thermal paste, I then removed it again to check that the base fitted correctly, and the paste was distributed evenly between the base and the CPU.
All was okay, so I finally fitted the cooler back.
I'm playing Elite Horizons at the minute whilst also posting to the forum and cpu temperatures are about 31 C - 32 C, not sure about Odyssey, When I get a new GPU I'll get a better view / understanding of overall CPU Motherboard temperatures to see if the cooler is adequate. ;)

Jack:)
 
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Imo

Imo
Jumpin' Jack Flash said:
Hi All, :)

I finally got round to rebuilding a new computer.
Here are the basic hardware specs.

Asus Rog Strix Z690-A-Gaming WiFi D4 LGA 1700 socket.
Intel Core i5 12600 s LGA 1700.
Fractal ION 2 Platinum 850 Watt PSU.
1 TB Crucial BX SSD.
16 GB Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 3200 mhz Ram (8x8)
Silentium Fortis 5 ARGB Cooler.
Windows 10 Retail Version.
* MSI Radeon R7950 3GB Twin Frozr OC. Boost Edition.
Coolermaster Haf X Case.
Oh just thought to add @Morbad and Riverside :) , I removed the cpu socket latch mechanism and fitted the Thermalright cpu bending correction plate kit.*

Okay, so I assembled the parts, connected the power. switched on the comp.
Computer booted into the bios, left the bios at defaults, installed windows 10.
Everything seemed to be running okay. shut down and startup behaving normally.
BTW. I had to go into my Microsoft Account and (delete the old original pc) transfer the software to the new computer, registered the software's activation screen as a new build. No problems as such. As a Side note though....I %^&*($% hate Microsoft...just couldn't get further into the installation without typing in my accounts password. Just a personal thing, my other comp's installation of Win 10 for some reason didn't require this. Which I prefer. 🤔

Checked to see if the new build conformed to Windows 11 requirements. It was one of the main reasons I built the new comp. in the first place.
Surprise surprise, the Windows 11 check came up with something like this....Your PC needs to Support Secure boot.

Right, this is where it all went pear shaped. o_O
I went into the bios and sure enough the secure boot wasn't enabled. So I changed it to the required setting, saved and exited.
Result was in short, the computer refused to boot into the bios, blank screen, and wouldn't load windows either. Computer kept trying to boot up and then restarting continuously.

Cutting a long story short, re-flashed the bios*, computer booted up normally.
Computer still needs to be set to secure boot, according to the Windows 11 health check app. so at the moment I'm still using Win 10.
I 'think' I've narrowed down the problem to the graphics card. It doesn't have the required bios requirements to enable me to use secure boot?

Anyway, thought to post it up here for any advice, solutions or workarounds to get my comp windows 11 compliant.

Jack :)
  • CPU Temperatures at the moment when idle is around 27-28 degrees Celsius, up to 32 degrees when playing Elite Horizons, using the Armoury Krate app. Auto fan function. The temps. are fairly low? so I'm assuming the Thermalright frame has done its job. :) plus the Cooler.
  • R 7950 GPU, yes it's old but I'm using it for now until I get (afford) a new one, either a GeForce or Radion one.
* Bios Version installed 1720. The current newest bios is 2004 but the reason I've installed the 1720 version rather than the 2004 one is because of this...2004 version "This version does NOT allow rolling back to the previous versions, not even via USB BIOS FlashBack™, to ensure better compatibility." :cautious:
Click to expand...
Windows 11 requires TPM 2.0. There might be a switch in the Bios named different: "Intel Platform Trust Technology" or "PTT" for example.
 
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Jumpin' Jack Flash

Jumpin' Jack Flash
Hi Imo :)


Imo said:
Windows 11 requires TPM 2.0. There might be a switch in the Bios named different: "Intel Platform Trust Technology" or "PTT" for example.
Click to expand...
Yes, that's enabled by default, if it wasn't I'd probably have thrown the whole lot out the window by now! :ROFLMAO:
Seriously. cough that's the weird thing, as I mentioned to varonica, If that was enabled one would have thought secure boot was also enabled by default as well. 🤷‍♂️
Unless....if secure boot was enabled and TPM 2, what could have changed it (Secure Boot) on the installation of Win 10?
Jack :)
 

Bravo17

B
I'm guessing that Secure Boot needs support from the OS to work and messes things up if you try to install an OS that doesn't support it, while TPM will just sit there and not interfere with things if it isn't wanted. So it doesn't make a difference if TPM is enabled by default, but enabling Secure Boot by default can interfere with installing some OSs and they also won't be able to tell you why they won't install since they don't know about Secure Boot, but if Secure Boot is disabled and you try to install on OS that needs it then it will be able to let you know why you can't install it.

So that could explain the choices that Asus make about what to enable/disable by default.
 

alexzk

A
I got laptop with windows 10, 1st thing I made - wiped it out to install Linux. However it was not booting until I disabled "secure boot".
I think it is sort of signed installation, i.e. I guess you should enable it and install windows from scratch.
Also BIOS should contain Windows's SHA key. Not sure though how you put it there, but mine laptop still has it stored by the vendor.
 
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Jumpin' Jack Flash

Jumpin' Jack Flash
Hi Imo :)
Imo said:
To your question about Windows login with password and without password: I have a similar issue where my gaming PC boots up with no login question but my Lenovo Laptop always wants the login password.
Click to expand...

Hmm...I've got two separate retail versions of Windows 10 (yeah, a bit stupid I know) The first one I bought is the one I'm using on this new comp. now. This is the version that no matter how I try it always asks for a password to my MS account, even when I fresh instal and even if I do the first part of the installation without connecting to the internet.
The second retail (which I bought about 18 months or perhaps 2 years later) copy as I've said gives me no problems, I just instal it from the usb stick, not connected to the internet, it finishes the instal and boots into windows. Both copies are usb sticks btw.
I'm just wondering if I should use the second stick for (any) installation and then just type in the code (when I go to activate it) that's on the key card pertinent to the actual computer that's in my MS Accounts devices (listed on the account devices page). I'm not sure if the actual usb stick itself has got some code to it?
I mean, what if I get the usb sticks mixed up! :oops:


Jack :)
 
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varonica

varonica
Jumpin' Jack Flash said:
This is the version that no matter how I try it always asks for a password to my MS account, even when I fresh instal and even if I do the first part of the installation without connecting to the internet.
:)
Click to expand...

Yeah that's a pain, what I do in those cases is set up a fake MS account (just make a note of the password, you will need it) and after installation you can change the log on process to use a local account rather than the MS account and after that you never need to use it, don't know how many fake single use MS accounts exist because of this, but that's often the only way. You will need the MS account to change to the local account, that's why you need to remember it so don't just mash the keyboard.
 
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