Hardware & Technical X-56 Rhino, save me from the piece of garbage.

So I ordered the X56 specifically for this game, like many people did.

Like many other people (all?) I received a stick that has a twist rudder that is absolute garbage. It cant be calibrated no matter what you try, it never returns to the same spot when you release it so it is always pulling one direction or the other.


Ok... so what Ill just add some deadband in the nifty Madcatz calibration tool..

Open calibration tool, click settings, click stick.. go to rudder axis, add some deadband.. click APPLY

EXCEPTION!!!
reference not set to an instance of an object. CRASH Hud.exe has stopped working.


So the stick is a pile of trash, and so is the software apparently....



I have tried:

uninstall/reinstall software
different USB ports
rebooting (of course)


Nothing works, the program crashes the instant you try to modify or calibrate any axis..

Reaching out to Saitek has proved about as fruitful as ing in the wind..

what can I do?
 
"reference not set to an instance of an object" sounds like you may need to install the proper version of the .Net framework, good luck finding the right one. Make sure to (re)install the programming software after you've done that so it can register itself with the proper framework too.

That said, good luck and maybe check out Thrustmaster products, they're getting a lot of good rep.
 

Deleted member 110222

D
Demand a refund and get the new midrange thrustmaster HOTAS coming out.

Totally agree. Much as I like my X52... I wouldn't recommend Saitek right now.

Maybe things will change later, what with Logitech, but right now? No.
 
So I ordered the X56 specifically for this game, like many people did.

Like many other people (all?) I received a stick that has a twist rudder that is absolute garbage. It cant be calibrated no matter what you try, it never returns to the same spot when you release it so it is always pulling one direction or the other.


Ok... so what Ill just add some deadband in the nifty Madcatz calibration tool..

Open calibration tool, click settings, click stick.. go to rudder axis, add some deadband.. click APPLY

EXCEPTION!!!
reference not set to an instance of an object. CRASH Hud.exe has stopped working.


So the stick is a pile of trash, and so is the software apparently....



I have tried:

uninstall/reinstall software
different USB ports
rebooting (of course)


Nothing works, the program crashes the instant you try to modify or calibrate any axis..

Reaching out to Saitek has proved about as fruitful as ing in the wind..

what can I do?

First, stop using the Rhino profiler. Uninstall that crap. Then click START and run "joy.cpl" and calibrate your joystick and throttle in WINDOWS. Set all your bindings in game, including dead zones, you won't be able to map the SLD switch on the throttle but that is all. If the calibration slips (it might a couple of times) just re-run the joy.cpl calibration routine, your PC will remember the config after a couple of times or so, I haven't had to run it in weeks.

my first X-56 arrived defective (stuck mini-joystick), the replacement has worked fine. "Object Reference not set to an instance of an object" is a database error. Saitek also says Windows must be completely patched and up to date before installing the HOTAS. Do not connect the HOTAS until prompted to by the driver installation software or it will foul up the install.
 
First, stop using the Rhino profiler. Uninstall that crap. Then click START and run "joy.cpl" and calibrate your joystick and throttle in WINDOWS. Set all your bindings in game, including dead zones, you won't be able to map the SLD switch on the throttle but that is all. If the calibration slips (it might a couple of times) just re-run the joy.cpl calibration routine, your PC will remember the config after a couple of times or so, I haven't had to run it in weeks.

my first X-56 arrived defective (stuck mini-joystick), the replacement has worked fine. "Object Reference not set to an instance of an object" is a database error. Saitek also says Windows must be completely patched and up to date before installing the HOTAS. Do not connect the HOTAS until prompted to by the driver installation software or it will foul up the install.

This this!!, I did the same with my Logitech G940
 
If the X-56 is anything like the X-52, you can recalibrate it on the fly by just replugging the sucker (same port) and then moving all axes through their full range.
 
First, stop using the Rhino profiler. Uninstall that crap. Then click START and run "joy.cpl" and calibrate your joystick and throttle in WINDOWS. Set all your bindings in game, including dead zones, you won't be able to map the SLD switch on the throttle but that is all. If the calibration slips (it might a couple of times) just re-run the joy.cpl calibration routine, your PC will remember the config after a couple of times or so, I haven't had to run it in weeks.

Sometimes this works, sometimes it doesn't. I had a X55 were it didn't.
 
I was so tempted to go with an X-56, but in the end I opted for ordering a used X-52 throttle from eBay that works perfectly with my T16000M. Far too many issues with Saitek products for me to consider their HOTAS products at the moment.
 
Like many other people (all?) I received a stick that has a twist rudder that is absolute garbage. It never returns to the same spot when you release it so it is always pulling one direction or the other.

what can I do?

This makes it sounds like the spring tensioning the twist axis has snapped. Simple fix, I'm led to believe.
 
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Had the same problem with X-55

There is a trick that could help you to circumvent it, though it remains annoying, of course.

The twist centering spring has its own "deadzone" - about 10-15% around the middle where the joystick doesn't centre itself.
Through in most cases it's not actually around the centre. Rather strangely, one end of the "deadone" is at 0 and the other sits on the 10-15% to the left or right.
The trick is to calibrate the joystick so it centres from one side all the way and from the other side you have to centre it yourself by pushing it the last 10% to the centre.
It's annoying and, frankly, if I ever saw a Saitek designer and had one of their products around, I wouldn't hesitate to throw it at them with all my might and rage, but you could get used to it, like I did.

...until it broke in many other places, of course. Now I'm waiting for the FCS Hotas, like everybody around here.

To be honest, I think both Elite and Star Citizen should speak up in this matter. Saitek was a cool and reliable manufacturer, ten years ago. But these new products that surf on the space sim wave are.. crap. (I think it's the strongest word allowed by the swear filter)
It's a unsavory hoax. Simple as that.

Let's hope that new products coached by Logitech will be a bit better, though I wouldn't bet on it.
 
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So I ordered the X56 specifically for this game, like many people did.

Like many other people (all?) I received a stick that has a twist rudder that is absolute garbage. It cant be calibrated no matter what you try, it never returns to the same spot when you release it so it is always pulling one direction or the other.


Ok... so what Ill just add some deadband in the nifty Madcatz calibration tool..

Open calibration tool, click settings, click stick.. go to rudder axis, add some deadband.. click APPLY

EXCEPTION!!!
reference not set to an instance of an object. CRASH Hud.exe has stopped working.


So the stick is a pile of trash, and so is the software apparently....



I have tried:

uninstall/reinstall software
different USB ports
rebooting (of course)


Nothing works, the program crashes the instant you try to modify or calibrate any axis..

Reaching out to Saitek has proved about as fruitful as ing in the wind..

what can I do?

Straight to refund.
 
Saitek's quality appears to be declining. Half a year ago, I got an X52 Pro. A week ago, the throttle started sticking, it would no longer go completely forward without nudging, i.e., moving it backwards again, wiggling, then forward all the way.

I guess the thingummy that is supposed to detain the throttle at certain incremental settings broke. Considering that I'd been treating it with care, I'm a bit disappointed... The stick itself creaks ominously whenever moving it... I'll try the new Thrustmaster HOTAS.
 
I guess the thingummy that is supposed to detain the throttle at certain incremental settings broke.
"Thingummy" is spot-on, that thing is just a heavily greased synthetic rubber part rubbing two nubs on the axle. Open the base and remove it, the detents aren't that useful anyway.
 
I just had the same problem as Wingnutt with my replacement unit (one week in use). I contacted Logitech support and they provided me with the instructions for a hard reset and recalibration of the z axis. It did actually work! I have full range movement again and the zero position is centered again, no need for 150 deadzone to avoid permanent input. Since this is a very common problem i also opened a new thread for it. Here are the instructions:

Dear XXX,

Thank you for your answer.

Please try the following to recalibrate your device's Z axis:

Clear axis calibration process for Stick:

Hold down button A, HAT1 up, Flying Pinkie, Mini stick button.
Clear calibration is completed when all lights go out.
Unplug/replug the stick

Axis calibration process for Stick:

Move all axes except main stick X/Y axes to max and min twice.
Move the Main stick X axis all the way to the left and then press the Trigger, button B and button D.
Calibration is completed when all lights go out.


For future reference your case reference number is XXXXX. This will allow us to quickly find the contact history when you need additional help. If we do not receive a reply, your support request will eventually be closed and set to "solved". A survey will be sent to you to gather your feedback.

To contact us by phone or obtain additional information (FAQ's, Forum, Manuals, etc.) please visit support.logitech.com

Best regards,

XXXX
Logitech Customer Care
support.logitech.com

Comment, the stick did not shut down after step 2 but it fixed the offcenter z axis.
 
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