Hardware & Technical X52 Hotas question.

[danteuk]

Has been working for a year ( almost to the day! )
Only use it with Elite Dangerous.
The throttle and it's buttons etc works and the stick lights up, but the stick doesn't work, nor do any of the buttons on the stick or the toggles. It literally went heywire today while I was using FSS !
I've tried:
unplugging / replugging to different usb ports
unplugging / replugging cable from throttle to stick
removing and re-installing software and drivers and rebooting. ( Win10 )
Also tried plugging into a laptop but it showed the same, ie throttle controller fine but nothing on the stick box works ( except the lights! )

​​​​​​​Anyone got any ideas?

I've also asked on the Logitech site but I'm not going to hold my breath for a sensible answer from there!

 

[Nick Sticks]

If you've tried it on two PC's then it's dead Jim.

You could take it apart to see if there is a loose wire anywhere or any burning that would indicate something's failed.

Edit: What he said ^^^^

 

[Jakester13]

I have an X-52, and I made some minor modifications when I first got them 4 years ago.

Opening them up is really simple: Unplug the flightstick and turn it upside down. Remove the 4 screws and lift off the base.

It should be easy-ish to see if anything obvious is wrong. Un-plugged bits on the board; exposed or broken wires near the moving parts.

I did a search on YT - you should find some visual help amongst these videos.

o7

 

[danteuk]

Thanks guys - a couple of good answers there, looks like I'll be taking a screw driver to it tonight

( nothing on the Logitech forum, no surprise there ).

 

[Stealthie]

This is probably a no-brainer but I might as well mention it anyway...

Have a look at the Joystick settings in Windows (or, I guess, in the Saitek software) to see what's going on.

If Windows doesn't think the joystick is working correctly then obviously there's no chance it's going to work in ED.
Conversely, if Windows seems to think it's working properly, the problem is related to ED.

No point in taking it apart if Windows thinks the joystick's still working okay.

Course, most likely it will need taking to bits.


If you're in the UK and you're not comfortable repairing it, I could have a look at it if you're okay with sticking it in the post.

 

[danteuk]

I was testing using the Windows game controller panel - no errors, just not working.

I've taken the bottom of and I can see the mass ( mess ) of wires that go up the center stick, one of them is broken ( red one ), might be more, hard to tell cos of the grease they put them to try and stop them rubbing on the sides - very poor design choice!!

I not the only and it been bad design for a while it seems:
https://forums.frontier.co.uk/showt...thread)-Got-a-issue-Look-in-here-first/page83

 

[Crank Larson]

The X-55 is just as poorly made. I rebuilt mine, and now all but one button doesn't work. Next time I buy a HOTAS, I have a horrible feeling I'll be spending a lot of money as the well-made ones with lots of buttons aren't cheap.

 

[BDelacroix]

Red wire is probably your power line, so that makes sense. I wonder what batch x52 this is. I bought mine before 2012 and haven't had that particular issue. I did have a sticking trigger button and can tell you how to fix that one if it happens.

 

[Jack Schitt]

It does sound like a detached or severed wire. Poor quality of the PS/2 type connector lead between the throttle and stick, as well as the ports into which it plugs, is also a known weakness with this design so if you've got access to another cable it might be worth giving that a shot first. But the lights working while nothing else does probably indicates a more serious issue.

The design of these sticks isn't the greatest, and the build quality is variable to say the least, but if you're confident poking around with basic tools and maybe a soldering iron they're also quite responsive to a bit of DIY. I've repaired and hardened a couple of wires in mine, as well as replacing the yaw spring when it snapped. I also invested in a better quality and longer PS/2 lead which solved a lot of historical intermittent faults, but I still have to re-seat it in the sockets from time to time as the sockets themselves aren't very "grippy."

Best of luck with tackling yours. Hopefully the fault(s) will be relatively easy to locate because it's killed everything. What can be worse are the ones that only intermittently affect one axis or a couple of buttons. Trying to work out what's rubbing on what, where and when is frustrating as hell.

 

[Wasp0]

Red wire is probably your power line, so that makes sense. I wonder what batch x52 this is. I bought mine before 2012 and haven't had that particular issue. I did have a sticking trigger button and can tell you how to fix that one if it happens.

BEFORE you open her up, and i assume that you have had it from new for a year now?, then contact Logitech support and launch a support case. It comes with (From New) a 2 year warranty. They will ask you to do a few things, you say yep done that, they will (Should) send you a new one.

Done this twice now. I have a good experience with Logitech tech support despite what others may say!

If you go diving inside it, you may invalidate any warranty that might be on it!

Just a thought!

 

[Stealthie]

BEFORE you open her up, and i assume that you have had it from new for a year now?, then contact Logitech support and launch a support case. It comes with (From New) a 2 year warranty. They will ask you to do a few things, you say yep done that, they will (Should) send you a new one.

Done this twice now. I have a good experience with Logitech tech support despite what others may say!

If you go diving inside it, you may invalidate any warranty that might be on it!

Just a thought!

If you're comfortable with repairing stuff, it's often not worth the effort of pursuing a warranty claim.

I mean, you've got something that's poorly-made in some way, and has failed, so you're going to get it replaced.... by another item off the same production-line, with the same faults and the same likelihood of future failure.

I used to have a Ducati 996 which went back to the dealer a dozen times under warranty.
Each time they'd replace something and it'd fail again a few months later.
I was actually happier (sort of) when the warranty expired so I could start repairing it myself.
It turned out that there were, literally, only three things wrong with it, all of which I permanently fixed by fitting superior aftermarket parts and it never gave me a day of trouble after that.

 

[Knot2clever]

Just though I'd post this, I remember a long time back about similar problems being reported (unfortunately this was during the hayday of quality build issues). Evidently the design at the time was not to have an earthing wire connection between the throttle & stick in the connecting cable, but instead use the cable foil shield as the connection. This foil shield delapidates over time. The quick easy fix was to just run a new wire between the two. Don't know if this could be the cause but thought worth posting for awareness.

 

[Stealthie]

Just though I'd post this, I remember a long time back about similar problems being reported (unfortunately this was during the hayday of quality build issues). Evidently the design at the time was not to have an earthing wire connection between the throttle & stick in the connecting cable, but instead use the cable foil shield as the connection. This foil shield delapidates over time. The quick easy fix was to just run a new wire between the two. Don't know if this could be the cause but thought worth posting for awareness.

That was me.

I did consider mentioning it but it produced a very specific fault, as a result of none of the pot's having a ground-reference, which the OP doesn't describe.

If the foil shield is deteriorating in your Saitek joystick cable, you'll see all the lights flickering on the throttle and you'll get your ships pitching and rolling like you're holding the joystick hard up/left.

 

[danteuk]

If the foil shield is deteriorating in your Saitek joystick cable, you'll see all the lights flickering on the throttle and you'll get your ships pitching and rolling like you're holding the joystick hard up/left.

I had that before it broke.
The wire that broke, broke right at the shield end, so really hard to get to the end and being so short I'd have to patch in a new length of wire I think - for now using an Xbox controller(clone) - so at least I made it to WP4 of DW2.

 

[Mole HD]

Has been working for a year ( almost to the day! )
Only use it with Elite Dangerous.
The throttle and it's buttons etc works and the stick lights up, but the stick doesn't work, nor do any of the buttons on the stick or the toggles. It literally went heywire today while I was using FSS !
I've tried:
unplugging / replugging to different usb ports
unplugging / replugging cable from throttle to stick
removing and re-installing software and drivers and rebooting. ( Win10 )
Also tried plugging into a laptop but it showed the same, ie throttle controller fine but nothing on the stick box works ( except the lights! )

​​​​​​​Anyone got any ideas?

I've also asked on the Logitech site but I'm not going to hold my breath for a sensible answer from there!

If you've registered the X52 on the Logitech site, they'll send you a replacement under the 2 year warranty. I recently had a very small yaw drift appear on my year and a bit old Saitek built X56...reported it under warranty and Logitech sent me a brand new X56 RGB (Logitech built) as a replacement.

The whole process took around 5 emails for confirmation of serial numbers and a digital copy of my online sales receipt from Amazon etc, then confirmation they had shipped the replacement. They didn't even want the old Saitek X56 returned...so spare HOTAS for me

 

[Wasp0]

This is probably a no-brainer but I might as well mention it anyway...

Have a look at the Joystick settings in Windows (or, I guess, in the Saitek software) to see what's going on.

If Windows doesn't think the joystick is working correctly then obviously there's no chance it's going to work in ED.
Conversely, if Windows seems to think it's working properly, the problem is related to ED.

No point in taking it apart if Windows thinks the joystick's still working okay.

Course, most likely it will need taking to bits.


If you're in the UK and you're not comfortable repairing it, I could have a look at it if you're okay with sticking it in the post.

Not entirely true. The newer X56's coming off the Logitech line, not saiteks line. The same can now be said of the X52 pro, although there is no paint difference on the newer 52 Logitech's, nut there is a BIG Made by Logitech on the box. According to Logitech support and i had a long chat with a very helpful support guy, he told me the only OLD Saiteks stocks left are the ones in the smaller stockist, or the smaller onlineers.

So i must say if you have a broken, squeaking, or sticky x52 pro and it is still in the 2 yr warranty DON@T open it up, raise a case and have a NEW Logitech model. I know it is easy to pen up, i have done a few and X55's in my elite time, but hey just WHY would you if you can get a brand new one??

 

[Mole HD]

Not entirely true. The newer X56's coming off the Logitech line, not saiteks line. The same can now be said of the X52 pro, although there is no paint difference on the newer 52 Logitech's, nut there is a BIG Made by Logitech on the box. According to Logitech support and i had a long chat with a very helpful support guy, he told me the only OLD Saiteks stocks left are the ones in the smaller stockist, or the smaller onlineers.

So i must say if you have a broken, squeaking, or sticky x52 pro and it is still in the 2 yr warranty DON@T open it up, raise a case and have a NEW Logitech model. I know it is easy to pen up, i have done a few and X55's in my elite time, but hey just WHY would you if you can get a brand new one??

Like I said...worked for me [yesnod]

Not only do I now have one of the Logitech X56 RGB's, I've also got a brand new 2 year warranty on it...

 

[Luthor1701]

Hi I've a X55 Throttle faulty buttons and drifty and Throttle button issues ….

Anyone know what micro switches to use and where to source multicore ribbon for a rewire?

Looks like I'm going to have to get help with a re-wire and switch replacement because my old eyes ain't up for the job.

 

[Bill Clement]

Hi I've a X55 Throttle faulty buttons and drifty and Throttle button issues ….

Anyone know what micro switches to use and where to source multicore ribbon for a rewire?

Looks like I'm going to have to get help with a re-wire and switch replacement because my old eyes ain't up for the job.

Chances are there's nothing wrong with the buttons, mine all came back when I re-wired the throttle. I used a roll of very thin wire, I wasn't particular about the type, just got one that looked about the same thickness as the original. I used Maplins (RIP) but any hardware store should be fine. Look for flexibility- nylon, vinyl, or plastic covered, it's not important as long as the wire bends and flexes ok. I also drilled out and filed down the opening the wires pass through to remove the sharp edges and I wrapped the wire in electrical tape (pickier types use shrink wrap) to offer a little extra strength to the loom. It's held up fine for about a year so far.
I wiped off some of the grease while I was in there. Disgusting gunk, I've no idea why they used such cheap and nasty wire, then blew the rest of the budget on about a kilo of what looks like high temperature silicone grease? Weirdos! [haha]

Good luck.