Yaw Drift

Greetings, Commanders.

I just started flying again after a long hiatus and my yaw is drifting to the left. At first, I thought it might be my flight stick. It's a little dirty and I'm hesitant to take it apart for fear of mucking something up and not being able to use it again. However, certain behavior is leading me to wonder if it's something else. I last left my ship adrift in the black, so I can't test against any other of my ships at this time. I'm about 40 jumps away from dock with limited time to play until the weekend, which means I won't be able to compare for a couple of days.

The main reason I'm not 100% convinced it's my flight stick—although it still might be—is that I don't recall the drift occurring when I'm mapping planets. I don't remember if yaw is disabled during DSS but, if it isn't, then it can't be my stick because the drift would occur during mapping as well. My dead zone in the ED settings offers plenty of wiggle room, and I didn't see anything in my ship's engineering to suggest that choices led to annoying controls. Just to be sure, I've shared my build in both EDSY & Coriolis (whichever you prefer) in case I'm missing something. The only other thing I can think of is that the dead zone in the stick's own software isn't configured. I'm using a Thrustmaster t16000m, so I use the T.A.R.G.E.T application, though it has no profiles loaded. I haven't loaded a profile (there's an ED profile) because their instructions indicate that it will also load their bindins, which I don't want. Could that be it? Could the lack of profile and using Generic Stick (I think) in the controls config inside ED be causing this annoying drift?

I sure hope it's software-related. Performing surgery on my stick doesn't sound like a pleasant activity. Thanks for any recommendations.

 
Even if not in use? Yaw worked, put it in storage, removed from storage a year later, yaw drifts. That sounds odd. I get developing issues from wear but not from storage. Even still, is this something I can fix without replacing?
 
The 16000 uses a potentiometer for yaw. Those can age and fail even when not used. People have tried cleaning that potentiometer with contact cleaner or deoxit, but that's a temporary fix at best. I head about replacing it with a contactless sensor, but I've never done that. You'd have to be comfortable with doing some electronics work though. There is a reddit thread about it.
 
The 16000 uses a potentiometer for yaw. Those can age and fail even when not used. People have tried cleaning that potentiometer with contact cleaner or deoxit, but that's a temporary fix at best. I head about replacing it with a contactless sensor, but I've never done that. You'd have to be comfortable with doing some electronics work though. There is a reddit thread about it.
I watched a few videos and I see what you're saying. What a pain in the ass this is. I'll try the temporary fix and maybe squeeze a few more months out of it until I can upgrade.
 
My rubbishy old thrustmaster t-flight hotas one does it too. I just open windows 'devices and printers', and access properties for the device there, and recalibrate it there. Sometimes when it hasnt been used for a while it defaults to the wrong 4/6 axis mode rather than 5/8 axis mode, which seems to mess up the yaw calibration. Not sure if just redoing the windows 'devices and printers' calibration would work for you.

It always drifts eventually but I tend to keep the recalibration screen open and change window redo it if necessary when playing.
 
Replacement pots are less than a few british pounds and easily obtained, the one for the TM 1600 yaw can be found online. Having owned a couple of low/mid range TM's though i have to say they aren't the greatest in the price bracket hence my own move back to logitechs x52.
 
Replacement pots are less than a few british pounds and easily obtained, the one for the TM 1600 yaw can be found online. Having owned a couple of low/mid range TM's though i have to say they aren't the greatest in the price bracket hence my own move back to logitechs x52.
Yeah, I bought the TM16000m years ago when I ported from console to PC, and it worked perfectly until I dug it out of storage this week. At the time of purchase, the forums were loaded with complaints about the X52 failing within a year, and I couldn't find anything similar on the 16000m. Well, no the roles are reversed.

I'm eyeballing a Logi X52 Pro (X56 is out of my price range) but have to wait before I can buy. That's why I just need some bandages to get me back into the sky for now.
 
Servisol Super 10, switch cleaning contact spray. Kept mine going till I got a VKB Gladiator, and now my son uses it with his t.16000m and another joystick. I still use it with a TWCS throttle. My replacement t.16000m got the yaw issue about 3 weeks after I got it, sprayed it with the Super 10 and my son used it for months before he had to spray it again. Same with TWCS throttle; lasting longer after spraying than it did without. Temporary fix? Yeah. Will get around to swapping the pot for a hall sensor one day, but honestly it's a five minute job to strip the stick and spray it, which lasts for months.

Servisol Super 10, 200ml spray, it's on Amazon, about £6 iirc? Brilliant stuff.
 
Servisol Super 10, 200ml spray, it's on Amazon, about £6 iirc? Brilliant stuff.
I've heard of this stuff and tried to get it for my first HOTAS, but I guess it's not available in the US (couldn't find it then, couldn't find it now). But I'll grab something similar—an electronics cleaner that's safe for plastics. If it gets me to Christmas, I'll be a happy pilot!

Thanks for the recommendation!
 
People didn't believe me when I told them about WD40 "Specialist Contact Cleaner" - yes electrical quick-dry contact cleaner - not the WD40 oil. It is great (and available* in the US):



* (should be)
 
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I've squirted WD40 (the oil) into mine and it's kept the yaw issue at bay for months at a time. It worked much better than iso-propyl alcohol or hydrogen peroxide, which were the recommended solutions.

Proper contact cleaner sounds like an even better fix though.
 
This is what I picked up.

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It comes up in the US Amazon list when searching for Servisol Super 10. Should be similar, based on the description. I'll report back the results once it arrives and I've tried it out.
 
I have three busted t16000Ms sitting on my shelf that I haven't got around to salvaging or throwing out, and all of them have busted yaw pots.
I got a VKB gladiator and I haven't had any issues with it.
The amount of time it's lasted me, compared to how long the T16000Ms were lasting before breaking, it's paid for itself.
 
I'm using dual T1600m, and have had this on both. I done my left stick twist (throttle) about 3 months ago after a little over a year of use, and and my right sick yaw literally yesterday. I just used methylated spirit (the purple one because it's pretty👍) that I clean my printer bed with, on a cotton bud. Get a good 4 or 5 drops on the pot, and work it a bit to make sure it's reached inside before putting back together. I haven't had a problem since. They'll need doing again I'm sure, but if it last 6 months it'll do.

Give it a shot.
 
I'm using dual T1600m, and have had this on both. I done my left stick twist (throttle) about 3 months ago after a little over a year of use, and and my right sick yaw literally yesterday. I just used methylated spirit (the purple one because it's pretty👍) that I clean my printer bed with, on a cotton bud. Get a good 4 or 5 drops on the pot, and work it a bit to make sure it's reached inside before putting back together. I haven't had a problem since. They'll need doing again I'm sure, but if it last 6 months it'll do.

Give it a shot.
The straw that came with my spray doesn't fit the nozzle, so it's possible I just didn't get enough in there. What I may do is spray and fill up a small cap and use a cotton swab.
 
The straw that came with my spray doesn't fit the nozzle, so it's possible I just didn't get enough in there. What I may do is spray and fill up a small cap and use a cotton swab.
Yeah give it a go. Could be that it clean it up but didn't get the crap out, and just shifted it a bit.
 
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