I've got both a Warthog and a CH setup. The stick is wonderful but the Warthog throttle is very limited for use in ED. I would just buy the Warthog stick and pair it with a CH throttle and pedals (which is what I use) or get the new Thrustmaster TWCS in September.
Can you talk me into buying a Hotas Warthog?
- Thread starter Nerwan
- Start date
Last edited:
There is a mod to the warthog stick that will make is so smooth you will think you are caressing a babies bottom.
After getting mine I wasn't happy with its stiffness, which is due to the heavy top spring TM uses.
Partake at your own risk, I assume no responsibility if you screw the pooch.
This does require a slight bit of disassembly, unscrew stick and remove it. Remove 8 small Phillips screws on trim collar, under the collar are 4 more screws these hold the unit together so as you remove them the spring pressure wants to rise the housing up, once you get the main housing apart, lub up the joint with some RC differential lube make sure its plastic safe. Now the secret I found the main spring (yeah the hvy one is what is causing the problems) so you discard it, remove two of the lower springs which the floater plate rides on and the hvy main spring presses against. Go to the local hardware store and grab you a couple assortments of 6mm inside diameter x 1"& 1.5 ", this gives you adjustability to suit your play style. With two of the original springs under the floater plate try one set of springs I would suggest the 1.5" set first place them opposite the springs resting under the floater plate, meaning if the lower springs are at the 6-12 oclock position, place the new springs at the 3-9oclock position on top of the floater plate. Button it back up and you will not believe how smooth she is now. It still self centers, if you throw it to the side and let go she pops back centered but softer then original, as a bonus side effect the dragging a lot of players experienced with the warthog disappears.
Just to make this clear, you end up having two (2) of the original springs under the floater plate @ the 6-12 oclock position, and two (2) of the new springs @ the 3-9 oclock position on top of the floater plate, one spring on each post, not two springs on each post, total of only 4 four springs in total used, 2 under and 2 above the floater plate.
The original pressure spring Tm uses is so ungainly for a flight stick, but I can understand why they did it, bullet proof. They have to supply a product that even an ape won't break, remember those ads for Samsonite luggage, the one where a Gorilla was using one to play with, yeah >>>> bullet proof.
If you need help in disassembly search you tube for Warthog disassembly, there are several vids, but everyone is still using the original spring on re-assembly, I found replacing it and removing two of the lower springs makes this stick come alive in your hands.
Again attempt this at your own risk, I assume no responsibility if you screw it up.
After getting mine I wasn't happy with its stiffness, which is due to the heavy top spring TM uses.
Partake at your own risk, I assume no responsibility if you screw the pooch.
This does require a slight bit of disassembly, unscrew stick and remove it. Remove 8 small Phillips screws on trim collar, under the collar are 4 more screws these hold the unit together so as you remove them the spring pressure wants to rise the housing up, once you get the main housing apart, lub up the joint with some RC differential lube make sure its plastic safe. Now the secret I found the main spring (yeah the hvy one is what is causing the problems) so you discard it, remove two of the lower springs which the floater plate rides on and the hvy main spring presses against. Go to the local hardware store and grab you a couple assortments of 6mm inside diameter x 1"& 1.5 ", this gives you adjustability to suit your play style. With two of the original springs under the floater plate try one set of springs I would suggest the 1.5" set first place them opposite the springs resting under the floater plate, meaning if the lower springs are at the 6-12 oclock position, place the new springs at the 3-9oclock position on top of the floater plate. Button it back up and you will not believe how smooth she is now. It still self centers, if you throw it to the side and let go she pops back centered but softer then original, as a bonus side effect the dragging a lot of players experienced with the warthog disappears.
Just to make this clear, you end up having two (2) of the original springs under the floater plate @ the 6-12 oclock position, and two (2) of the new springs @ the 3-9 oclock position on top of the floater plate, one spring on each post, not two springs on each post, total of only 4 four springs in total used, 2 under and 2 above the floater plate.
The original pressure spring Tm uses is so ungainly for a flight stick, but I can understand why they did it, bullet proof. They have to supply a product that even an ape won't break, remember those ads for Samsonite luggage, the one where a Gorilla was using one to play with, yeah >>>> bullet proof.
If you need help in disassembly search you tube for Warthog disassembly, there are several vids, but everyone is still using the original spring on re-assembly, I found replacing it and removing two of the lower springs makes this stick come alive in your hands.
Again attempt this at your own risk, I assume no responsibility if you screw it up.
Last edited:
That and having VR makes having elaborate set ups obsolete. Which brings me to my topic for the OP.
I want to sell you to VR instead. Instead of wasting the cash on a this HOTAS, save it for VR and one of the new pascal cards coming soon.
With all due respect h34, being able to see the ships around you is one thing, but if you have a dead stick in your hands you can't get to them. If what you are saying is true all the top notch fighter pilots in RL would be using a VR setup without a stick. A stick in a combat plane is a tried and proven necessity.
I don't have rudder pedals, others have stated they want the twist, but I have found setting yaw to my stick hat, works great. It rest directly under my thumb so as I work the stick I also am working the hat switch in the same direction, roll left/yaw left, roll right/yaw right, nose down/thrust down, nose up/thrust up, on my throttle I have another hat set for landing and combat to use for thrust left and right, I can dance around any ship I am fighting.
I don't have rudder pedals, others have stated they want the twist, but I have found setting yaw to my stick hat, works great. It rest directly under my thumb so as I work the stick I also am working the hat switch in the same direction, roll left/yaw left, roll right/yaw right, nose down/thrust down, nose up/thrust up, on my throttle I have another hat set for landing and combat to use for thrust left and right, I can dance around any ship I am fighting.
Last edited:
NO . I want you to continue to be owned by Hotas owners..
To the op and anyone else thinking about a warthog, check out Amazon, if I am not mistaken they have a money back guarantee, no questions asked why you want to return something. You can buy one, if you don't like it, simply return it, although I truly believe if you get one and mod it you will guard it with your life.
DNA love your VR
DNA love your VR
Last edited:
if you get rudders you get 3 more axes: Yaw and toes.
ive got toes mapped to lateral thrust.
And there's lots of buttons on the warthog throttle.
Pretty easy to map yaw there, and your muscle memory will kick in with the new setup in about ten minutes.
Last edited:
Yep, love my T.16000m, but have been stuck without throttle options (CH Pro throttle seems to be the only choice) to complement - cheers for that link
It's funny you say that but I made my decision last night. I didn't buy the Warthog in the end but opted for the T16000m and the CH Pro Throttle.. I decided that twist yaw was too important to me and that seems like the best combination available if you want twist yaw and a hall sensor stick.
Last edited:
absolutely true, and with voice attack one can sound like one too! ; )
Big TVs FTW
Snap. For reference, here is how I set it up. I used a CH Pro script to do the power control. And a Thrustmaster one for scan long/short.
Last edited: