Horizons X-56

  • The throttle damping is *really* stiff and gave my left arm a good work out last night.
  • The unit is designed for people with giant hands. I can hardly get my hand around the throttle unit and the palm rest needs about an extra 1cm to 2cm of padding to bring it up to a reasonable height for me, even with the extra shim.
  • The tumb stick centring isn't accurate all the time, so dead zones needed to be added.
If you hate warranties, you could open the stick and remove a lot of the grease. If the X-52 and the review are anything to go by, Madcatz absolutely love that stuff. IME that goo won't yield of its own over time, so if anything gets lighter, that should rather be attributed to wear on the plastic.

The "made for bears" thing is a general defect with "realistic" sticks that are even remotely modelled after actual fighter sticks. Manufacturers don't care for the fact that their customers are not wearing pressure suits :( I thought the CH stuff was smaller, but it isn't. Aftermarket shims should totally be a thing.

As for the thumb sticks, that appears to be an "industry standard issue". I looked up the part that CH are putting in a throttle, apparently it's an off-the-shelf ALPS part (RKJXK122400Y) that comes at over 5€ in 1000s; the manufacturer is quoting a ±5° precision for centring with a 60° total deflection, which makes for a ~16% fudge that may need to be dealt with via deadzone if you're unlucky. I found that by manually fudging the stick in the centre of its "loose region" during calibration I could get away with an 8% deadzone setting. Maybe you can pull a similar trick with Saitek's calibration.
 
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Hi guys, just bought ELITE Dangerous recently after playing a friend's Oculus setup (he has an X-55). I also bought a new X-56 which just arrived in the mail and I tried to set it up last night.

I installed the drivers, software, etc. When I went into ELITE, it is not recognizing the joystick at all, and defaults back to a controller or keyboard/mouse. It doesn't even show other joysticks in the list (is it auto-detecting?).

I thought something was wrong with the joystick, but from reading here, is it just not appearing due to Frontier not supporting the X-56 right now? Sorry for such a noob question, but I am new to ELITE, just spent hundreds of $$ on this setup, and I don't have the experience in the game to set up each little binding, switch, key, etc in the game manually with the joystick (if that is even possible).

Any ideas here? Do I just need to wait for the developer to add support for the X-56? Or is there something else I can do to get the joystick and throttle recognized and working in the game?

Thanks for the help.
 
I took my X52 apart and removed the stiffness adjustment all together, along with the indents or whatever they are called... It's awesome. And easy.

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Hi guys, just bought ELITE Dangerous recently after playing a friend's Oculus setup (he has an X-55). I also bought a new X-56 which just arrived in the mail and I tried to set it up last night.

I installed the drivers, software, etc. When I went into ELITE, it is not recognizing the joystick at all, and defaults back to a controller or keyboard/mouse. It doesn't even show other joysticks in the list (is it auto-detecting?).

I thought something was wrong with the joystick, but from reading here, is it just not appearing due to Frontier not supporting the X-56 right now? Sorry for such a noob question, but I am new to ELITE, just spent hundreds of $$ on this setup, and I don't have the experience in the game to set up each little binding, switch, key, etc in the game manually with the joystick (if that is even possible).

Any ideas here? Do I just need to wait for the developer to add support for the X-56? Or is there something else I can do to get the joystick and throttle recognized and working in the game?

Thanks for the help.

When you go into "controls" use the keyboard to click pitch and yaw and when it asks for what you wish to bind that to, see if moving the joystick registers... I use x52 and it's perfect, had to play with it tho... Don't know about x56.
 
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I took my X52 apart and removed the stiffness adjustment all together, along with the indents or whatever they are called... It's awesome. And easy.

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When you go into "controls" use the keyboard to click pitch and yaw and when it asks for what you wish to bind that to, see if moving the joystick registers... I use x52 and it's perfect, had to play with it tho... Don't know about x56.


Thanks for the tip. Yes, that did work and created a "Custom" control profile. for my X-56.

I was able to map the stick no problem, and the fire button, a few controls, etc. However I am having a real problem with the throttle. There are a bunch of different settings in the throttle section. I tried to map "increase throttle" to pushing forward on the throttle, and "decrease throttle" to pulling back on it, but it had a hell of a time recognizing it. I finally got it to map something, but now the throttle only works going backwards! I did go out into the X-56 software and the physical hardware is working fine.

The throttle settings are confusing -- any ideas on what I should map what to?
 
Oot.. You know there is an trance track with the same nick you have?


Thanks for the tip. Yes, that did work and created a "Custom" control profile. for my X-56.

I was able to map the stick no problem, and the fire button, a few controls, etc. However I am having a real problem with the throttle. There are a bunch of different settings in the throttle section. I tried to map "increase throttle" to pushing forward on the throttle, and "decrease throttle" to pulling back on it, but it had a hell of a time recognizing it. I finally got it to map something, but now the throttle only works going backwards! I did go out into the X-56 software and the physical hardware is working fine.

The throttle settings are confusing -- any ideas on what I should map what to?
 
Throttle axis. Leave those increase and decrease empty. It says [JOY X-AXIS] on my X-55.
 
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Be ready to safely exit the game when taking off, you never know what happens once the docking clamps are released with a new control setup.
 
Thanks everyone. I got the throttle working! Feels great.

I went ahead and mapped the other controls to the stick, and they are working as expected.

My last remaining issue it seems -- I mapped the joystick for pitch and roll to the "pitch axis" and "roll axis" the same way as you recommended for the throttle. This gets me analog input for the stick, which is great, but when I am in the game when the joystick is centered, the ship leans slightly up and rolls slightly to the left. I can re-map the stick to the "digital" up/down and left/right pitch and roll settings -- that centers the ship, but you lose that cool analog feel to the stick.

Any ideas on how I might center the stick so I can use the Pitch axis and Roll Axis analog bindings?

Thanks as always for the help.
 
Thanks everyone. I got the throttle working! Feels great.

I went ahead and mapped the other controls to the stick, and they are working as expected.

My last remaining issue it seems -- I mapped the joystick for pitch and roll to the "pitch axis" and "roll axis" the same way as you recommended for the throttle. This gets me analog input for the stick, which is great, but when I am in the game when the joystick is centered, the ship leans slightly up and rolls slightly to the left. I can re-map the stick to the "digital" up/down and left/right pitch and roll settings -- that centers the ship, but you lose that cool analog feel to the stick.

Any ideas on how I might center the stick so I can use the Pitch axis and Roll Axis analog bindings?

Thanks as always for the help.

First try using the Rhino software to calibrate the stick.

If this doesn't help, you need to create a dead zone either within ED's control options or within the X56 software. I have done this for mine and you'll need a little trial and error to get the size right until the ship flies straight and level.
 
Just a quick tip for anyone with the X56. Straight out of the box the throttle is very stiff, although I understand it may loosen off after a few weeks use. I have found that if you move it backwards and forwards very quickly about 10 times, it loosens it off very substantially. I think that it must help to soften the grease inside with friction. Once you have done this, it is really smooth to use and makes a big difference.
Hope this helps someone else, has made a big difference for me.

I am delighted with the X56, but haven’t owned a HOTAS before, so nothing to compare against. Am using my with the HTC Vive and the immersion is amazing!
 
Just a quick tip for anyone with the X56. Straight out of the box the throttle is very stiff, although I understand it may loosen off after a few weeks use. I have found that if you move it backwards and forwards very quickly about 10 times, it loosens it off very substantially. I think that it must help to soften the grease inside with friction. Once you have done this, it is really smooth to use and makes a big difference.
Hope this helps someone else, has made a big difference for me.

I am delighted with the X56, but haven’t owned a HOTAS before, so nothing to compare against. Am using my with the HTC Vive and the immersion is amazing!
Howdy, I have found that doing as you say, moving the throttle back and forth rapidly for a while WILL make it easier to move but only for a short time for me. Each session that I use it I have to loosen it up again. I hope after time it will stay a bit looser. :)
 
Howdy, I have found that doing as you say, moving the throttle back and forth rapidly for a while WILL make it easier to move but only for a short time for me. Each session that I use it I have to loosen it up again. I hope after time it will stay a bit looser. :)
I've opened mine up and removed most of the damping grease. It's hugely better.

Having said that, I've gone back to my old X52 Pro as it fits my hands better and I don't have to shift around the throttle just to press buttons.
 
I've opened mine up and removed most of the damping grease. It's hugely better.

Having said that, I've gone back to my old X52 Pro as it fits my hands better and I don't have to shift around the throttle just to press buttons.
Yes, the stick handle is made for smaller hands than mine it seems. I cut a 4 inch section of circular foam that I have for insulating pipes and wrapped it around the backside of the stick. I attached it with electrical tape. With a little whittling to form it, the fit for my hand better and I am getting less strain when doing a lot of turns in combat.
 
I've had a couple of glitches on the throttle unit where it would spontaneously press a button when doing something else. This is not as if wires are shorting as the second time the throttle wasn't being moved (just thumb stick) and one of the toggle switch actions actuated. I'm guessing that this is a driver fault.
This is usually caused by the USB port you've plugged the throttle into not supplying sufficient current. Try another port. In particular if on a newer computer (works OK on my Z-97 based system) use a USB3.0 port, not a USB2.0 port.

If needs be use a powered USB hub for it.
 
This is usually caused by the USB port you've plugged the throttle into not supplying sufficient current. Try another port. In particular if on a newer computer (works OK on my Z-97 based system) use a USB3.0 port, not a USB2.0 port.

If needs be use a powered USB hub for it.

I've tried them all, and all my hubs are powered, including the USB hub in the display. Some of the motherboard ports are able to power up to 1 amp as they're designed as charging ports.
 
Ordered my X-56 on Amazon Prime three weeks before release, supposedly to "be one of the first" and for "guaranteed delivery by June 2". On June 2 got a "Delivery Delayed" email, then another a week later. Finally received my X-56 to find cheap, flimsy plastic, NO manual (the link goes nowhere), a joystick that does not center (I am told this is a materials defect, poor quality control), a stiff, gummy throttle that will NOT loosen up no matter how loosely adjusted and when the two throttles are "locked" together each is able to be moved a significant amount independently. I found defective mini-joysticks, gritty sliders and loose-feeling switches that wiggle in their mountings. It is so light and the rubber foot-pads so small I pushed it around the desk. But they helpfully molded screw-holes into the corners in case you want to SCREW IT TO A TABLE! Many of the switches are awkwardly placed and easily activated accidentally, some switches can only be reached by REMOVING YOUR HAND(S) FROM THE CONTROLS! Sort of destroys the whole "H.O.T.A.S. concept, doesn't it? I already returned mine as defective, Amazon says it will take FIVE WEEKS to replace. I am considering cancelling the order and soldiering on with my trusty old Logitech Extreme 3D joystick/throttle that only cost me $35. Oh, and it LOOKS cheap, too. The "distressed" paint jobs just looks like poor quality control in the paint shop an example of turning a "bug" into a "feature". Some of the buttons/switches/controls aren't even labeled and can only be determined using the (incredibly clunky) software that comes with the kit. You could say that I am not impressed at all given the $250 cost. It's too bad, Saitek was such a good company before Mad Catz.
 
I've opened mine up and removed most of the damping grease. It's hugely better.

Thanks – great tip!
I have just done the same and it has made a world of difference. Not sure what type of grease that they use, it is almost like that silicone sealant that you use to seal holes, sure is thick and sticky stuff! It seems like whatever it is too thick or the wrong viscosity for the job. Anyway it is gone now and no more having to fight the throttle!
Thanks again.
Fly safe.
 
Howdy, I have found that doing as you say, moving the throttle back and forth rapidly for a while WILL make it easier to move but only for a short time for me. Each session that I use it I have to loosen it up again. I hope after time it will stay a bit looser. :)

Yes, unfortunately, my workaround is only temporary with the throttle stiffening up again. The permanent solution is to remove the base of the throttle and clean out some of the grease in there.
The base is held on with no less than 15 screws! Once you remove those, the base comes away easily. There are no springs or ball bearings that jump out when you take it apart – that is what usually happens to me if I dismantle something!

The grease is very sticky and I just wiped it away with kitchen tissue. If you get it on your hands it washes off with soap and water easily.

Once you have finished the cleaning operation, simply put the base back on along with all 15 screws and the throttle is super smooth.

I experimented by taking just a bit of grease off and then putting the bottom back and trying it without the screws in and then took a bit more grease out and tried it again until I got the resistance I wanted.
I can’t see that the stick will become any easier even with time as the grease is so thick and sticky, I can’t imagine it ‘working in’, so better off to remove it.

I expect that this may invalidate the warranty by doing this. The choice is a throttle that you don’t have to fight with no warranty or put up with it just in case of a warranty claim in the future.
 
Or just stick with it. Within a month your throttle will be nice and loose assuming half a dozen hrs or so use a week... I promise.

Trust me with saitek / mmadcatz stuff you want the warranty intact!!!
 
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