CH Pro Throttle and . . . ?

On the original subject of this thread: I have a CH Fighterstick and Throttle too (no pedals yet).

You can map left and right yaw to one of the hat switches on the throttle (currently using the one on the main cluster) - obviously not as good as an analogue input, but it works surprisingly well.
 
Have you made your decision yet? Don't be afraid of mixing and matching with non CH stuff, GlovePie or VoiceAttack can give you complete control over buttons, mode switches etc.

I am using GlovePie to let me treat specific CH pro hat switch directions to act as mode switches to then completely re-assign my t16000m joystick buttons

Eg. By default me joystick hat controls thrusters, but when I hold a specific throttle hat in a particulate direction, it converts the joystick hat to then control the panel menu systems
 
If you have watched that Ralfi´s review, why dont you buy that 3D pro, I had 2 of those a long time ago and they were pretty good, but their lifetime was quite short, but still its cheap and quite good solution.

Myself, I have CH 568, pedals and throttle and I am very happy about it.
 
Thanks Abacus. Yeah, I'd seen Brumster's vid - it was the fact he loved the mouse stick on the throttle that helped me get over it's plasticy look.

Have you made your decision yet? Don't be afraid of mixing and matching with non CH stuff, GlovePie or VoiceAttack can give you complete control over buttons, mode switches etc.

Thanks Adam, good to know.

If you have watched that Ralfi´s review, why dont you buy that 3D pro, I had 2 of those a long time ago and they were pretty good, but their lifetime was quite short, but still its cheap and quite good solution.

I was looking for a quality product (like the X-52 purports to be) and assumed Ralfi was recommending the 3D pro as good for the price. This page on joysticks, as well as the relative Amazon reviews, came down in favour of the T.16000M over the 3D pro. Comes down to the hall effect sensors, I think.
 
I have CH hotas for about a week now.
To get over the lack of yaw, i just use the option to turn roll into yaw with the press of a button, i did thesame when i was using kb+m. I use one of the small buttons at the back of the throttle for this, as it's easy to hold it down while doing other things.
You don't need yaw for maneuvering, and you don't need roll for precise aiming, so works like a charm.
 
I have CH hotas for about a week now.
To get over the lack of yaw, i just use the option to turn roll into yaw with the press of a button, i did thesame when i was using kb+m. I use one of the small buttons at the back of the throttle for this, as it's easy to hold it down while doing other things.
You don't need yaw for maneuvering, and you don't need roll for precise aiming, so works like a charm.

I am quite often using yaw on my pedals to track my target slowly going into roll so I am becomming more maneuvrable when the target is getting closer and I need it. I think the yaw into roll is not enought to replace yaw adequately.
 
I use pitch and roll on the stick and for yaw and lateral up/down the little stick on the throttle. This leaves only lateral left/right to the 4-way-switches.
Works well for me ;)
 
A week or so ago I received a CH Pro Throttle to pair with my trusty t16000m (thanks to Bromley86 for encouraging me to order from the US instead of drumming my fingers while waiting for UK stock, your experience put my mind at rest :))

The combo works well, I was wondering if the differing qualities would make them "feel" different but it's nothing I notice, particularly as I am now freed from having to use the stick's cheap-feeling base buttons.

As for axes, the t16000m comes out ahead, the Hall Effect sensors ensure this for pitch/yaw, but even the pots seem better to me. The slider on the t16000m is rock steady, while the CH Pro Throttle sometimes jitters between adjacent values. This is not noticeable in game, but I like to script a voiced "zero" and "blue" response to act as audio detents, and this is harder when the value jitters. My desire to do this scripting points to the one real downside of the CH Pro Throttle: its lack of physical detents.

Overall though, I think this combo represents a real value sweet spot. If you have a t16000m and fancy going to a full HOTAS rig without throwing away what you have, this is well worth a look :)
 
Since we're speaking of CH Products, I have the old CH Pro Throttle and Fighter Stick, but they're the old joystick / serial port versions. I know I can get a joystick to USB adapter for pretty cheap, but I have no idea whether they'll work with Windows 8, or if they'll be recognized at all. I used to use them (with my Pro Pedals) for the X-Wing games, and would love to be able to use them with Elite: Dangerous without having to drop the cash for the new native USB versions.

Anyone have any experience using a joystick to USB adapter? And with using them with Elite: Dangerous in particular?
 
Anyone have any experience using a joystick to USB adapter? And with using them with Elite: Dangerous in particular?

Yup, I converted my CombatStick to USB. I used an off-the-shelf module from here. It's a bit steep for what it is, you could pretty much make the thing yourself with an Arduino and some basic coding skills, but it was before I got into my electronics :)

If you're savvy enough with the basics of circuits/electronics it's not all that hard to do.
 
Yup, I converted my CombatStick to USB. I used an off-the-shelf module from here. It's a bit steep for what it is, you could pretty much make the thing yourself with an Arduino and some basic coding skills, but it was before I got into my electronics :)

If you're savvy enough with the basics of circuits/electronics it's not all that hard to do.

Savvy enough? Er... nope! :D

Since I'm in the States, I was considering something along these lines, but everything I've seen so far has had such mixed reviews (and none confirmed to work with Win 8) that I'm a little hesitant to roll the dice. My joystick and throttle are in prime condition - they've literally sat in their boxes for 10+ years. I've already put about $300 into backing the game, so I think I'd have a hard time justifying another $300 in controllers to the Mrs. (Luckily, the commercial Oculus has been pre-approved).
 
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I read about CH offering USB-conversion themselve?! Since I bought mine only a few months ago they are USB-versions from the beginning. Perhaps you ask CH about it?
 
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I read about CH offering USB-conversion themselve?! Since O bought mine only a few months ago they are USB-versions from the beginning. Perhaps you ask CH about it?

Great suggestion, but I already looked there. From their FAQ:

I have one of your 15 pin controllers. Is there an adapter I can use to convert it to USB?
CH Products no longer supports legacy 15 pin controllers nor do we recommend the use of adapters.

So unfortunately it looks like a dead end there.
 
I would honestly recommend you convert them. You invested in them 10 years ago, and they are good for it. They still hold up their own compared to modern controllers. If you flog them on ebay you'll probably get pretty poor money for them, being the old 15-pin, but converting them (or finding someone to do it for you) will be money well spent. If you were a little closer, I'd offer to do it for you.... but.... ;)
 
I would honestly recommend you convert them. You invested in them 10 years ago, and they are good for it. They still hold up their own compared to modern controllers. If you flog them on ebay you'll probably get pretty poor money for them, being the old 15-pin, but converting them (or finding someone to do it for you) will be money well spent. If you were a little closer, I'd offer to do it for you.... but.... ;)

I appreciate the area-restricted offer, Brumster - although I'm already in your debt for the awesome silent running informational video you put together! :D

I fully intend on keeping them, and as you say, converting them (or, rather, finding someone who I can pay to convert them) is certainly reinvestment worth making. Are there any other resources you'd recommend beyond Arduino and the link you provided? I'd be happy to take the conversation to PM, so as not to clutter the thread. :eek:
 
Don't use a 15 pin to USB converter, they don't work very well and you lose a lot of precision.

The Leo Bodnar device Brumster linked to is what I used to convert mine, although mine was an old Apple ADB device rather than a 15 pin one.

The basic principle is to create a grid of switches using diodes to ensure that if two are pressed at once you don't get a false button press. This explains it http://georgeboles.no-ip.org/DaveDribin/DaveDribinsKeyboardMatrixHelp.htm

If you know anyone who is good with a soldering iron and basic electronics this is a good way to go and will give you an excellent HOTAS for not much money.
 
I have a t16000m and plan to add a CH Pro Throttle once they're in stock at a non-gouging price.

Theres someone on amazon selling a supposedly "Mac" version for £86 - in reality there is no specific Mac version so youl get the one and only generic usb version. Just bought one myself the other day.


And responding to the OP - I uses mine in a "HOTAM" setup (M == mouse)
 
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Theres someone on amazon selling a supposedly "Mac" version for £86 - in reality there is no specific Mac version so youl get the one and only generic usb version. Just bought one myself the other day.

You might have grabbed the last one then, 'cos it seems to be out of stick again :D

Anyway, I got mine from amazon.com in the end. I was a bit worried about how well the pre-paid import charges would work but Bromley86 reassured me ... and I can confirm that I didn't have to pay any extra. I don't mind the import tax, fair's fair we're all supposed to pay it, but I hate having to pay extortionate handling charges!
 
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