Hardware & Technical MY HOTAS WARTHOG SHEARED OFF AT THE SHAFT

I was one of the first to buy a HOTAS Warthog when they first came out (back when DCS A-10 was originally released) and two weekends ago I finally managed to break it while being interdicted. Clean break right where the grey shaft enters into the black handle.

I don't know what my point is aside from commiserating with the one group of people who might possibly understand my pain.

And also to confirm that it is possible to break a HOTAS Warthog, lol.

Fortunately, I applied a nice clean bead of JB Weld, used gravity to keep pressure on the bead, and waited 48 hours for it to cure. Two weeks of flying since then and it's as strong as ever! (crossing fingers so I don't jynx it)

I don't know if they have JB Weld in the UK, I'm just here to say that stuff WORKS if you have it available! (it's like super glue for metal surfaces, except it seems to act more like a "cold" weld.)
 
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I hope your fix last!
Personally I would of inserted a piece of brass tube or something of that nature before reattaching the shaft.
But your fix may outlast the sticks natural life span with any luck.
 
I think the Warthog was trying to tell you to ease up a little in the only way it could.

Honestly I'm surprised I haven't broken my T16000 already, since I pretty much have a death grip on it every time I go into combat. I imagine ED takes quite a toll on HOTAS hardware.

I'm amazed that the most expensive joystick of the lot can actually break like that. If your fix doesn't hold, you have my sincere condolences, OP. Here's hoping it lasts!
 
Man, I can imagine the look on your face after that happened. Invent any new swear words in the heat of the moment?
 
I hope your fix last!
Personally I would of inserted a piece of brass tube or something of that nature before reattaching the shaft.

Is the shaft metal or plastic?

You don't really want to repair or modify stuff with material that's significantly stronger that the original part cos, if you do, then the forces which caused the original break will be passed on to other parts of the assembly and you can end up causing a failure which can't be repaired as easily.

You've got the right idea though.
Get a tube suitable to slip inside the broken part and use it to reinforce the joint.
presumably there'll be a bunch of wires running through the shaft so you might have to cut a slot in the length of the tube but that wouldn't reduce it's strength significantly.

Glue ain't gonna last.
 
I received a hole in my engine block when I was exploring Death Valley, I still think it was a long range shot from a high power rifle as there was a hole in the hood as well. But anyway I always go prepared being alone in the desert and had some JB Weld. Applied some to some cardboard from a simple box, top ad bottom and applied the " patch" . Next morning I topped off with coolant an drove back home to Los Angeles. Never found the slug but the patch lasted 90k miles. JB Weld probably saved my life that day, I'm a firm believer!
 
Don't know how you did it mate, but if you should be in the situation again, and can't repair it, get a VKB-Sim Gunfighter Pro JS, they are metal all the way.
 
JB Weld is an epoxy putty. It's waterproof, so I've used it in the past, to repair pvc irrigation tubing. I'm not sure how long it would last, when used as in the OP, but it's strong and will bond to metal and plastic (and other materials too).
 
No the internals of the Warthog gimbal assembly is all plastic... I've broken the "Articulation Sphere" before and now 3D print them when they break (though I've only broken one). Recently the top "Bell" that holds the magnet broke but CA glude put the magnet back in place for now.

I know there are some vendors that sell the shaft assembly in metal now, I think you can even buy them from Shapeways in Metal. Check the DCS forums (DCS A10C forums etc).

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The MKB stuff looks nice but thier grips are HORRIBLE looking... all Russian aircraft designs, not a fan. When they make North American grips, I'm interested.

Cheers
 
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Photos man photos. Only then can we laugh, I mean sympathise with you.

I was expecting somebody to make this post, lol. I had the same thought, but only AFTER applying the JB Weld, d'oh.

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I received a hole in my engine block when I was exploring Death Valley, I still think it was a long range shot from a high power rifle as there was a hole in the hood as well. But anyway I always go prepared being alone in the desert and had some JB Weld. Applied some to some cardboard from a simple box, top ad bottom and applied the " patch" . Next morning I topped off with coolant an drove back home to Los Angeles. Never found the slug but the patch lasted 90k miles. JB Weld probably saved my life that day, I'm a firm believer!

Death Valley? High powered rifle? Random shot through the engine block?

As someone who spends a lot of time on BLM land, I absolutely believe it.

JB Weld FTW!
 
I think the Warthog was trying to tell you to ease up a little in the only way it could.

Honestly I'm surprised I haven't broken my T16000 already, since I pretty much have a death grip on it every time I go into combat. I imagine ED takes quite a toll on HOTAS hardware.

I'm amazed that the most expensive joystick of the lot can actually break like that. If your fix doesn't hold, you have my sincere condolences, OP. Here's hoping it lasts!

On the one hand, I was disappointed when it broke because I wasn't putting a lot of torque on it so it seemed kind of silly for it to break when it did. On the other hand, it's been rock solid for years, taking a ton of punishment, so I really can't complain. My fix is working brilliantly so far, but if it doesn't last and it's too expensive to ship it to France (from California) for repairs, I will happily invest in a new one.

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Man, I can imagine the look on your face after that happened. Invent any new swear words in the heat of the moment?

Nope, just dusted off some old ones that had been out of practice, lol!
 
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