Anyone else have problems controlling yaw?

I'm using a T16000m with stick-twist yaw. And before that the same with Hotas X.

The problem I have is over shooting a target with yaw, then over correcting the other way etc. etc. I feel the obvious solution would be a much stiffer twist on the stick but I guess that isn't possible...

I've also tried damping the response and other inverted etc profiles in vJoy (joystick Curves) and this has helped but generally it still ain't good. I suppose that pedals would help but I really don't want to go down that route if I don't have to .

Any ideas?
 
I'm using a T16000m with stick-twist yaw. And before that the same with Hotas X.

The problem I have is over shooting a target with yaw, then over correcting the other way etc. etc. I feel the obvious solution would be a much stiffer twist on the stick but I guess that isn't possible...

I've also tried damping the response and other inverted etc profiles in vJoy (joystick Curves) and this has helped but generally it still ain't good. I suppose that pedals would help but I really don't want to go down that route if I don't have to .

Any ideas?

Only the same yaw-damping problem that has been built in from the game's start. :)
 
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I've also tried damping the response and other inverted etc profiles in vJoy (joystick Curves) and this has helped but generally it still ain't good. I suppose that pedals would help but I really don't want to go down that route if I don't have to .

Any ideas?

Pretty much the reason why I use pedals, you can adjust tension, often put the full force of my leg into hard maneuvers, amazing accuracy which I need for FA-OFF, you can't have the nose wagging back and forth. A bonus is you get a good leg workout by the end of every ED session :)

Perhaps there are sticks to adjust tension, most high end sticks I know off don't have twist.

EDIT - Just got an old X52 out of my cupboard, had a play around with the twist, no amount of tweaking joystick curves is going to fix that spring action.
 
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I'm using a T16000m with stick-twist yaw. And before that the same with Hotas X.

The problem I have is over shooting a target with yaw, then over correcting the other way etc. etc. I feel the obvious solution would be a much stiffer twist on the stick but I guess that isn't possible...

I've also tried damping the response and other inverted etc profiles in vJoy (joystick Curves) and this has helped but generally it still ain't good. I suppose that pedals would help but I really don't want to go down that route if I don't have to .

Any ideas?

I have both of these sticks and don't have a problem with the yaw or overshooting using it.
I don't have any joystick profiles either - like from joystick curves - just the normal calibration within Win7.

Have you calibrated the stick?
For Win7:
Start Menu/Devices and Printers/right click on T.1600M/Game Controller Settings/
Select T.1600M and click Properties.
You can then calibrate the stick.
 
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I have both of these sticks and don't have a problem with the yaw or overshooting using it.
I don't have any joystick profiles either - like from joystick curves - just the normal calibration within Win7.

Have you calibrated the stick?
For Win7:
Start Menu/Devices and Printers/right click on T.1600M/Game Controller Settings/
Select T.1600M and click Properties.
You can then calibrate the stick.

There is no option to Calibrate this stick.

sg3I8ua.jpg
 
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I'm using a T16000m with stick-twist yaw. And before that the same with Hotas X.

The problem I have is over shooting a target with yaw, then over correcting the other way etc. etc. I feel the obvious solution would be a much stiffer twist on the stick but I guess that isn't possible...

I've also tried damping the response and other inverted etc profiles in vJoy (joystick Curves) and this has helped but generally it still ain't good. I suppose that pedals would help but I really don't want to go down that route if I don't have to .

Any ideas?

I have had my T16000FCS for a little over 6 months now, and have had the throttle finger controller (I use this for yaw) go spiky, and the X&Y axis of the joystick itself lose their centre (so the light stays on).

The solution was the same for both, and is described in the manual:

Unplug the controller, restart your PC, plug it in & (I think) restart again. It will then self-calibrate & it all works properly again.
 
I have had my T16000FCS for a little over 6 months now, and have had the throttle finger controller (I use this for yaw) go spiky, and the X&Y axis of the joystick itself lose their centre (so the light stays on).

The solution was the same for both, and is described in the manual:

Unplug the controller, restart your PC, plug it in & (I think) restart again. It will then self-calibrate & it all works properly again.

Yeah i always make sure mine is plugged in before starting the pc. If i plug it in when the pc is running it goes a bit weird. Like the drivers don't load properly or something.
 
Ahh, that looks like you have the Thustmaster drivers installed - I don't, Win7 just recognised the stick and the throttle.
On my similar panel I have the Test tab but also a Settings tab with a Calibrate function.

Strange that it should override calibration. However I believe it is supposed to be self calibrating.


It doesn't feel like a calibration thing as in all other respects the system feels great. Also the vJoy response chart is A-OK too.
 
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Only issue I have is the default hypersensitivity of the controls. Nothing a bit of Dead Zone can't fix though.

I wish I had the steady hands and sharp eyes of my misspent youth - I'd love to make my own aduino-based controls to use with Elite.. could probably make a small mint selling them to you lot too. I've thoughts and designs in my head for controls that would make even the Warthog seem amature in nature.
 
Only issue I have is the default hypersensitivity of the controls. Nothing a bit of Dead Zone can't fix though.

I wish I had the steady hands and sharp eyes of my misspent youth - I'd love to make my own aduino-based controls to use with Elite.. could probably make a small mint selling them to you lot too. I've thoughts and designs in my head for controls that would make even the Warthog seem amature in nature.

When I had to re-config my control bindings for my new PC, the reactions were like greased lightning for my Warthog. New deadzone settings were mandatory.

Yaw damping in this game has always been horrible. That was a conscious design decision against "turrets in space". Funny, we have turreted weapons, now. :)
 
Just got an old X52 out of my cupboard, had a play around with the twist, no amount of tweaking joystick curves is going to fix that spring action.
The x52 is actually a pretty awful stick (in terms of axes and their responses) whose deficiencies are masked by a very good button layout. It really is just crap apart from the buttons. I've really grown to hate flying with it. I've tried many different curves with Joystick Curves and vJoy to make it handle better, but while this improves the handling somewhat, you really can't compensate for something just not being very good.

With regard to the OP, you should download the TARGET software from Thrustmaster. In the software, you can define a custom response curve for all the joystick axes. This will allow you to tweak down the response from the yaw action to make the twist respond less forcefully at smaller deflections. You will need to also remap the hat switch to a DXBUTTON event of the same action, but that will take two or three minutes at most. You can do the same for all the axes on the stick, which transforms a stick with already very good throw and accuracy into one worth twice the sticker price.

*edit*

A properly configured T16000M doesn't need a deadzone. That's how good it is.
 
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The x52 is actually a pretty awful stick (in terms of axes and their responses) whose deficiencies are masked by a very good button layout. It really is just crap apart from the buttons. I've really grown to hate flying with it. I've tried many different curves with Joystick Curves and vJoy to make it handle better, but while this improves the handling somewhat, you really can't compensate for something just not being very good.

With regard to the OP, you should download the TARGET software from Thrustmaster. In the software, you can define a custom response curve for all the joystick axes. This will allow you to tweak down the response from the yaw action to make the twist respond less forcefully at smaller deflections. You will need to also remap the hat switch to a DXBUTTON event of the same action, but that will take two or three minutes at most. You can do the same for all the axes on the stick, which transforms a stick with already very good throw and accuracy into one worth twice the sticker price.

*edit*

A properly configured T16000M doesn't need a deadzone. That's how good it is.

I tried the TARGET software but just couldn't figure it! vJoy works pretty good for adjusting the responses. But presently the only one I am using it for is Yaw.

Can you explain some more about this DXBUTTON and how it improves the stick??

Cheers
 
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Ahh, that looks like you have the Thustmaster drivers installed - I don't, Win7 just recognised the stick and the throttle.
On my similar panel I have the Test tab but also a Settings tab with a Calibrate function.
Exactly, I didn't install TM driver either. Just plugged and played.

I do have an over-active yaw, but I just upgraded to DD5's and I like it that way.
 
Can you explain some mare about this DXBUTTON and how it improves the stick??
Setting the hat with DXBUTTONs doesn't improve the stick. In fact, it's basically just mapping the hat back to the hat. When you use TARGET and change response curves, the hat on the stick stops working unless you remap the hat to DXHAT/DXBUTTON.

You could trigger macros with key combinations, too.
 
I've never been fond of the twist feature (had it on an old Logitech stick)... anyway, I went to dual joysticks almost a year ago and I'll never go back.
 
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