Game keeps resetting my computer

[NJMorf]

I've got a Logitech X56 HOTAS that I'm using with the game but something about it is causing the game to reset the computer. To be clear: the game isn't crashing to desktop, nor is Windows 10 BSODing; the computer just resets as if I'd hit the reset button or cut the power. The Windows crash logs do not show crashes, just "the computer was shut down unexpectedly". I've done some searching to see if any similar behaviour has been reported before but couldn't find anything relevant.

The resets happen within a few minutes of me entering the game world. I've had them happen while I'm still docked, immediately after being released, while flying and while landed on a planet. They've happened while I've been actively using the HOTAS and while I've been hands-off.

I've read about some problems with the X56 drawing too much power from the USB sockets, perphaps because of the requirements for the RGB lighting (though I've disabled that and still have the resets). I've tried having the stick and throttle plugged into the front panel USB 2.0 and 3.0 ports and the rear 3.0 ports (I don't have enough 3.1 or higher ports to try them) but the resets still occur. I've had thirteen of these resets in the last three days and all of them took place while ED (Horizons, not Odyssey) was running. I've tried using the HOTAS in other games to replicate the crashing, but nothing untoward has happened. For example, I played about an hour of Star Wars Squadrons today without problems, then started ED, spent a few minutes in the options and then entered the game without leaving the station: the PC reset within maybe three or four minutes.

I should add that I have an older Thrustmaster HOTAS setup that I've used extensively in ED in the past and that I've not played the game much in the last 18 months or so. I'm going to dig out the old gear to see if the resets persist. I've also read that using a powered USB hub can fix (or in some cases cause) problems with the X56, so I'll probably get one to try out. It's possible that my PSU or motherboard (five year old 650W 80+ gold and four year old ASUS) are factors in the problem but given that I've only been getting these resets in the last few days and only when playing ED, I really doubt it. I sincerely doubt that the power draw overall is anywhere near the limits of my PSU (my rig is an i5 6600K, RTX 2070 driving 1920x1200@60Hz, 1x NVME, 2x SATA SSD and ED doesn't typically come close to maxing out either CPU or GPU use).

Does anyone have any suggestions about what might be causing this problem or how to fix it? Thanks in advance.

 

[Zieman]

Failing PSU comes first to mind.

 

[STRONTIUM DOG]

odyssey uses version 4..0 binds
horizons uses version 3.0
maybe using odd binds in hor is causing conflict
use the bindings guide stuck to the top of this subforum to rename and sort out what set your using on each of the different games
to rid them from your process of elimination

 

[NJMorf]

Failing PSU comes first to mind.

I accept that this is possible, but I've not had any other symptoms to suggest a PSU problem, and it seems unlikely that such a problem would only have started manifesting when I started playing ED again, and even more unlikely that it would exclusively cause the resets during ED play. I have been playing other games with similar CPU and GPU loads.

odyssey uses version 4..0 binds
horizons uses version 3.0
maybe using odd binds in hor is causing conflict
use the bindings guide stuck to the top of this subforum to rename and sort out what set your using on each of the different games
to rid them from your process of elimination

I don't have Odyssey, so there is no possibility of contamination unless FD have made changes to Horizons to include some Odyssey code.

Quick update: I played the game for about an hour, doing all the same things I mentioned above, and it didn't reset. I also tried spending 10-15 minutes repeatedly changing keybinds before going back into the game proper, in case that had any bearing. I'll have to do some more testing.

 

[Vulf]

Constant crashing to desk top started as of June 17th. Full PC reset not as often, this has improved.

 

[Cmdr Dreamer]

"Improved" so you still have the problem
Best to fix it

 

[NJMorf]

Constant crashing to desk top started as of June 17th. Full PC reset not as often, this has improved.

You're having the same resetting problem? Or are you saying it's a known problem that lots of people are suffering?

Further update: I've just done a stress test using Prime95 and Furmark simultaneously for about 30mins without seeing any aberrant behaviour. Combined load of the CPU and GPU during that test is about 250-290W, which is in line with my estimated total system load of about 400W according to this PSU calculator. I think the PSU is probably fine.

(I edited the original post to correct my CPU from 6600U to 6600K.)

 

[VR Roxydog]

I replaced my Corsair 1000w PSU the other week because of resets like yours - all fine now.
I had the same HOTAS as you and had to get a powered USB because buttons wouldn't work occasionally but never had a reset.

I got another Corsair 1000w and the computer shop guy specifically told me to make sure I used 3 separate power wires for my 2080ti - the one I replaced only had 2 power wires and a jumper from one of those for the 3rd power plug.

 

[Vulf]

"Improved" so you still have the problem
Best to fix it

No the new patch lessoned the full PC resets but increased the crashes to desk top, mostly on flying out of a station and on start-up of the game.

 

[NihileNOPE]

I had similar issues in a different game, and regardless of what hardware I used. Try seeing if your motherboard's firmware needs updating.

 

[Q GT70]

I recommend you check your disks as well.
that many crashes are more than likely causing you file errors that you may not have noticed yet.

that aside, as a computer tech, I agree that you had and still have a power issue.
besides any test program you might use, you need to do the math first. how much power is your pc going to use at full tilt, all devices inside running.
if you are using more than a couple usb devices that draw their power from the pc, add that or make allowances.
if you want less power problems on a pc , a power supply that has double of what you need will do.

if you have suffered any file corruption, sometimes its not 100% noticeable or obvious. virus's do nifty things to files like this too..
I am referring though to the files for the x56, I would read all the macros and make sure none are messed up. make sure nothing anywhere is accessing sleep or hibernate or reboot.

most important is, the x5x series and more have never been supplied with the 2 to 1 usb power connector that it needs or with clear and honest instructions.
usb 2 provides .5 amp
usb 3 or 3+ can provide over 2amps depending on motherboard or card specs

the drivers provided will cause crashes on many computers when used on usb 3 or 3+ port.
using either 2 usb ports with the right connector, or an external usb powered port on a usb 2 port on the computer, allows the x series to use the power it needs.
and not using the pc's usb 3 port ensures the driver doesn't do its fun stuff.

this is old information about the x series sticks.

so, as above the math is important for the power supply to work properly.
But then you have what is true and accurate in devices
as well as what they might do when they are dying.
looks like you have more than enough power
but I would connect an ammeter to the power cord to see what it does when its crashing.

tbh, I would not be at all surprised that you find the usb situation the culprit.
if you check, you will see that dozens of people like me have been pointing out this issue for years.
the manufacturer says it can use usb 2, this is a lie, it needs 2x usb 2
you can watch the usb port in windows(in device manager) to see how much power it actually uses, mine has always used 700ma when it turns on. that is actually enough to cause many usb ports actual damage.

This is also one of the main reasons Binds issue happens.
almost every time windows loses the controller is because the voltage went over, usb port goes to sleep(reset).

any crash risks file damage by windows to windows and anything else it has open, this is a given. if your pc is not forcing file system checks then you should do it, every time.

I apologise if you are already aware of any of what I have said.

 

[Q GT70]

not knowing more, I also want to add that you can buy usb voltage/current meters
they are very useful and accurate, more importantly, prevent your pc from damage if you are testing a faulty device.

as a computer tech, and a guy that made a hobby of buying almost every usb device possible..I can tell you a lot of them are very flawed off the shelf
and too many lie about the power consumption of devices.
some simply leave out information, such as a usb powered drive can use over 2A on startup, then what they do tell you, it only uses 500ma..yes, once it is 'ready'. till then it can damage many pc's that do not have forgiving usb ports.

having seen so many usb devices that cause issues in so many different ways, the best solution is to always use a powered external usb port

in the case of the x series, myself and numerous others have had these conversations with the original manufacturer Saitek.
I asked them to at least put on their web site, to use the 2 to 1 cable and only use usb 2

funny how people in big companies though, are not fond of pointing out a previous lie by admitting the issue and telling you how to fix it.

 

[Saltyseadog]

not knowing more, I also want to add that you can buy usb voltage/current meters
they are very useful and accurate, more importantly, prevent your pc from damage if you are testing a faulty device.

as a computer tech, and a guy that made a hobby of buying almost every usb device possible..I can tell you a lot of them are very flawed off the shelf
and too many lie about the power consumption of devices.
some simply leave out information, such as a usb powered drive can use over 2A on startup, then what they do tell you, it only uses 500ma..yes, once it is 'ready'. till then it can damage many pc's that do not have forgiving usb ports.

having seen so many usb devices that cause issues in so many different ways, the best solution is to always use a powered external usb port

in the case of the x series, myself and numerous others have had these conversations with the original manufacturer Saitek.
I asked them to at least put on their web site, to use the 2 to 1 cable and only use usb 2

funny how people in big companies though, are not fond of pointing out a previous lie by admitting the issue and telling you how to fix it.

A very interesting post Cmdr Q GT70, I too have suffered from the dreaded ghosting issues with my Logitech X56, in fact it got so bad recently that Logitech sent me a new one as mine was still on warranty. I tried all the recommended fixes available on line even bought an externally powered 4 x usb 3.0 hub. I just set up the new x56 which arrived yesterday and it works fine for the present but then so did the last one at the start. Your info in regard to using a 2f-1m usb 2.0 splitter cable interests me. As the usb 3.0 hub is backward compatable with usb 2.0 would it be better to run the 2-1 splitter from there or from a usb 2.0 connection on my desktop PC?. Also as you appear to know a lot about this could you recommend me a quality usb 2.1 splitter cable?.

 

[Amy Pendergast]

A very interesting post Cmdr Q GT70, I too have suffered from the dreaded ghosting issues with my Logitech X56, in fact it got so bad recently that Logitech sent me a new one as mine was still on warranty. I tried all the recommended fixes available on line even bought an externally powered 4 x usb 3.0 hub. I just set up the new x56 which arrived yesterday and it works fine for the present but then so did the last one at the start. Your info in regard to using a 2f-1m usb 2.0 splitter cable interests me. As the usb 3.0 hub is backward compatable with usb 2.0 would it be better to run the 2-1 splitter from there or from a usb 2.0 connection on my desktop PC?. Also as you appear to know a lot about this could you recommend me a quality usb 2.1 splitter cable?.

I still have the original X55. The ghosting in that went away the second i used a proper powered USB hub (not such cheapish thingies).

 

[Q GT70]

this will do the job

Electop USB 2.0 A Female to 2 Dual USB Male Jack Y Splitter Charger Cable : Amazon.ca: Electronics

Electop USB 2.0 A Female to 2 Dual USB Male Jack Y Splitter Charger Cable : Amazon.ca: Electronics

www.amazon.ca

man, they used to be $2.00

and even though usb 3 is backward compatable. the problem is the driver and if you use usb3 you will have different crashes
you can get a version of this cable for usb 3 as well, don't.

Using this type of adapter will ensure the stick does not try to adjust the led's via the usb 3 paths. and allows the stick to draw the power that it needs.
if you have a usb 2 port, use it, not the usb 3 port.

this cable is common and pretty hard for anyone to mess up.
the bigger concern is if you are going to use an external powered hub.
there are so many, and as always, some are great and some suck.
if it comes with a power supply that allows for 1 to 2 amps per port, 4 to 6amp power supply. that is a good start. 8amps is preferable. as they should be rated at 2A per port.
If they are not then chances are it is junk and will actually cause more problems.
most of mine are Vantec.

 

[Saltyseadog]

this will do the job

Electop USB 2.0 A Female to 2 Dual USB Male Jack Y Splitter Charger Cable : Amazon.ca: Electronics

Electop USB 2.0 A Female to 2 Dual USB Male Jack Y Splitter Charger Cable : Amazon.ca: Electronics

www.amazon.ca

man, they used to be $2.00

and even though usb 3 is backward compatable. the problem is the driver and if you use usb3 you will have different crashes
you can get a version of this cable for usb 3 as well, don't.

Using this type of adapter will ensure the stick does not try to adjust the led's via the usb 3 paths. and allows the stick to draw the power that it needs.
if you have a usb 2 port, use it, not the usb 3 port.

this cable is common and pretty hard for anyone to mess up.
the bigger concern is if you are going to use an external powered hub.
there are so many, and as always, some are great and some suck.
if it comes with a power supply that allows for 1 to 2 amps per port, 4 to 6amp power supply. that is a good start. 8amps is preferable. as they should be rated at 2A per port.
If they are not then chances are it is junk and will actually cause more problems.
most of mine are Vantec.

Thanks but surely it should be two female and one male adapter unlike the one in the link?.

 

[Q GT70]

not unless the newer versions of the stick are coming with 1 or 2 female ends.
if they are, that's news to me.
Last I was told it still uses one male usb 2 plug. as does mine and all the ones I know of.

I do see that rather than fix the driver, they now include batteries for the leds, which is where the problem lies.
IF they fix the problem, then the 2 previous companies and Logitech will end up in court and lose their shirts.
because it was known from the start, and put into black and white as complaints by electronics technicians like myself
first they have to make the circuitry correct, then redo the drivers.
this will cost them millions to do and many more millions in the replacing of all the admitted wrong ones they all sold.
its like buying a gas station that's been leaking for 100 years.
the previous mad catz and Saitek sold for the reason of poor design that actually destroys computers.

soo, the idea is, you want power from 2 ports and your stick uses 1 male usb 2.0, that goes into the female of the Y, and the 1 male of the Y uses power and handles the data, the other male is power only and because its tapped into 2 ports it can now go over 500ma, safely

you do not want to use usb 3 cables or ports for any of this.

 

[Saltyseadog]

not unless the newer versions of the stick are coming with 1 or 2 female ends.
if they are, that's news to me.
Last I was told it still uses one male usb 2 plug. as does mine and all the ones I know of.

I do see that rather than fix the driver, they now include batteries for the leds, which is where the problem lies.
IF they fix the problem, then the 2 previous companies and Logitech will end up in court and lose their shirts.
because it was known from the start, and put into black and white as complaints by electronics technicians like myself
first they have to make the circuitry correct, then redo the drivers.
this will cost them millions to do and many more millions in the replacing of all the admitted wrong ones they all sold.
its like buying a gas station that's been leaking for 100 years.
the previous mad catz and Saitek sold for the reason of poor design that actually destroys computers.

soo, the idea is, you want power from 2 ports and your stick uses 1 male usb 2.0, that goes into the female of the Y, and the 1 male of the Y uses power and handles the data, the other male is power only and because its tapped into 2 ports it can now go over 500ma, safely

you do not want to use usb 3 cables or ports for any of this.

No, my X56 has a seperate male USB cable on each item ie stick and throttle unit. I thought you were saying that putting them both onto one single usb male plug via a Y coupling (hence the 2F and 1M) would solve the power problem, now I am not sure what you mean?. At present I have the stick and throttle each connected to a seperate usb socket in my 5v DC mains powered 4 ported usb 3.0 hub connected to a usb 3.0 port on the back of my PC.

 

[Q GT70]

ic, new design. I looked but did not see that. keep them separate.
the throttle part is where the problem is. sounds like the only thing would be to plug the external usb 3 hub(power issue solved) into the pc's usb 2(driver issue solved) port.
unless they have actually finally redone the driver.
Use as you have it and see. the driver simply causes all kinds of lock-ups.

as for the system reboots, even though all this may help, if you still have reboots for no reason, I would put an ammeter on the main power, for starters.
if it helps
this type of device is very helpful

https://www.amazon.ca/P3-P3IP4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU/ref=asc_df_B00009MDBU/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=293037007834&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15412304048385279428&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1001832&hvtargid=pla-306572288073&psc=1

in Canada, Canadian tire sells a version of this for $20.

fwiw easiest way to make sure no macro or other button is being used to reboot un-intentionally, I would disable hibernate and sleep and if anything is set to shut down for any reason = disable them too.
on desktops I do this anyway.
on laptops I know they are set to sleep, so again, I make sure I have full control.

people will tell you bios doesn't change and more dumb stuff.
any glitch can cause faulty data to be read or stored.
settings change all the time for no known reason. there is always a reason, the point is it happens. no software can detect 100% accurately another programs or files integrity.
gigabyte gives us dual bios because they know this.
the history of checksums is proof, and a never ending waste of effort.
the jist is, if you r having reboots, something is NOT happy.

 

[Q GT70]

btw, I do agree that EDO is really hard on the video card and ofc power supply.
my desktop is like turbines starting up, I hate it.
my laptop is like the vacuum cleaner is on, full tilt cooling.

but all that is doing is forcing the issue you already have to surface.

and fwiw, if you are not into electronics is why I mentioned the simple meter previously. And it will track max and min so you can see if there are any spikes.
there should not be.