Hardware & Technical X52 pro - Center detent advanced MOD

EDIT: This mod failed after some days for me. Something went wrong with the digged line, so i reverted back to full smooth throttle. So please, do not try to do it, it is very very risky and complex to arrange. Bytheway the idea was good and at least i tryed.


Hello Commanders!
It is very cool to play ED with the "full range" feature, but x52 Pro owners know well about the - useless with ED - two throttle detents to feel the afterburner and reverse thrust, put at about 80% and 20% of the throttle slider respectively.
Everybody knows about the mod to remove those detents and feel the throttle a little bit better, but the problem is that you don't feel the "zero" throttle that is in the exact middle of the slider when you use "full range". Well, after playing ED for a while you can get skilled to stop at zero power without feeling the detent, ok... But I wanted to try to do a more advanced mod:

Center detent!

This is the detent:

image.jpg


And these are the two edges that make you feel it:

image.jpg


So the idea is to smooth out the two edges and dig a line on the cylinder, in the very middle of the (removed) edges, to make the detent works reversely: the detent won't be stopped by the edges, but it will stop going inside the digged line.
For first, the detent must be put in a little bit higher position, in order to make it go inside the digged line properly. In my case I simply use some paper:

image.jpg


Then with a Dremel smooth out the two edges, VERY, VERY gently and accurately:

image.jpg


Now, ready to dig the line in the very center. It needs to be enough deep to make the detent go inside, but not too much deep to break the cylinder. And it needs to be enough width and long to fit the detent:

image.jpg


Reassembled the X52 Pro... I was both a little lucky and a little skilled, and now got a cool center detent! :cool:

My final suggestion is: DO NOT DO IT. :)
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    76.3 KB · Views: 1,277
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    90.5 KB · Views: 1,225
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    73.3 KB · Views: 989
Last edited:
I made the same with mine after just one day of usage. But why did you grind the plastic? Now your warranty is completly gone, but if you keep the little rubber dent somewhere safe, the you are able to replace it and send it back for warranty reasons.
 
I made the same with mine after just one day of usage. But why did you grind the plastic? Now your warranty is completly gone, but if you keep the little rubber dent somewhere safe, the you are able to replace it and send it back for warranty reasons.

i think you didn't get the point.
this is for a center detent. you will feel a stop in the center of the throttle.
what you did was just remove the stops.
 
the problem is that you don't feel the "zero" throttle that is in the exact middle of the slider when you use "full range".

I've thought of exactly this, so thanks for posting the details. I'm not sure I'll ever do it but something to think about.

How accurately does your indent match with a dead stop? Any problems between game sessions and finding the ship moving on launch?

Edit - presumably the dead zone setting is what you want if the new indent isn't quite dead middle.
 
Last edited:
I see, but what is point of a Center dent? :)

If you play with "FULL RANGE" it is absolutely useful... with that option the throttle starts from the center, half up you go forward, half down you go reverse. And with this mod you feel the center detent.
I bet you don't use full range option, otherwise you wouldn't ask :)

How accurately does your indent match with a dead stop? Any problems between game sessions and finding the ship moving on launch?

Quite accurately, as i wrote you have to be a little lucky and skilled and catch the perfect center for the digged line. And then you can also work a little with the software deadzones ;)

EDIT: exactly :)
 
Last edited:
I see, but what is point of a Center dent? :)

The point is that the game is really bad at indicating if you have the throttle in reverse, so using a symmetrical axis for both forwards and backwards thrust gives you a much better idea.

To test the concept, reduce throttle to zero on a forwards-only axis, then press the reverser multiple times in succession, walk away from the screen for a second (the point here is to make sure you don't keep track of the reverser state yourself), and then try to tell which direction your ship will go without touching the throttle.
 
Shadowdancer is right the main problem with the forward only throttle option is getting confused when at zero throttle having reversed a few times. It is a very simple improvement to have the throttle position indicator (that's what I call it) always at the top if in reverse and always at the bottom when in forward. It works perfectly if you have even a tiny amount of throttle and keep pressing the reverse throttle button but not at zero.

Rep to tonaz for this mod.
 
I use full throttle range and prefer it too. It seems to change direction faster, though that might just be a placebo. For the time being I'm using a detent on the outside, just a piece of small cable tie stuck down with electrical tape on the 50% mark. It catches slightly on the casing the throttle drum rotates in. Just enough that when combined with a deadzone it helps find center.

I do quite like the more permanent solution though :)
 
I use full throttle range and prefer it too. It seems to change direction faster, though that might just be a placebo. For the time being I'm using a detent on the outside, just a piece of small cable tie stuck down with electrical tape on the 50% mark. It catches slightly on the casing the throttle drum rotates in. Just enough that when combined with a deadzone it helps find center.

I do quite like the more permanent solution though :)

can you take some pictures at it please? I didn't understood clearly (i'm not english).
thanks a lot!
 
Hi Sorry I took so long. It's messy but doesn't need to be. Here's my quick and dirty external bump/nub.

50nub.jpg

I had a small zip tie placed horizontally at the 50% mark. It wasn't quite tall enough so I held it down with insulation tape. The insulation tape is quite soft and I added a couple of layers of sellotape till I had the height I wanted and less friction.

Once your happy with the feel, just add a deadzone in control settings to adjust. With mine it was at about 2 or 3% throttle initially. A small deadzone fixed that and you can feel the bump/notch without having to force anything.

Works quite well. Sorry about the grimy stick. It's in a dark room and magnified under bright light so the dust shows up much more distinctly.
 
Hi Sorry I took so long. It's messy but doesn't need to be. Here's my quick and dirty external bump/nub.


I had a small zip tie placed horizontally at the 50% mark. It wasn't quite tall enough so I held it down with insulation tape. The insulation tape is quite soft and I added a couple of layers of sellotape till I had the height I wanted and less friction.

Once your happy with the feel, just add a deadzone in control settings to adjust. With mine it was at about 2 or 3% throttle initially. A small deadzone fixed that and you can feel the bump/notch without having to force anything.

Works quite well. Sorry about the grimy stick. It's in a dark room and magnified under bright light so the dust shows up much more distinctly.

Now THIS is where it's at. I've removed the detent's, as for why you'd want a center one instead of a button for reverse... Apart from not knowing if your in reverse if you've been AFK, this is ideal for combat, and saves a reverse button.... which for me is now use shield cell...
 
I just got X52 (regular) and I was also thinking about making some center dent mod, so that I can use full range... but I think I will just remove top and bottom dents and relay on dead zone and "feel" to hit zero...
 
Currently trying this in the opposite way.. I have filed the two old indents down and in the center I have glued (Just with Superglue for right now to test) a small gage wire to create a new bump for the indent to catch on.. (instead of digging out the line and raising the indent like you did)

If it works I will use something more permanent like 2 step epoxy to hold the wire in place..

Wish me luck..
 
Hi Sorry I took so long. It's messy but doesn't need to be. Here's my quick and dirty external bump/nub.


I had a small zip tie placed horizontally at the 50% mark. It wasn't quite tall enough so I held it down with insulation tape. The insulation tape is quite soft and I added a couple of layers of sellotape till I had the height I wanted and less friction.

Once your happy with the feel, just add a deadzone in control settings to adjust. With mine it was at about 2 or 3% throttle initially. A small deadzone fixed that and you can feel the bump/notch without having to force anything.

Works quite well. Sorry about the grimy stick. It's in a dark room and magnified under bright light so the dust shows up much more distinctly.

Thanks for this. I found cable ties too thick to use but a section cut from the lip of a zipper bag worked perfect.

Posted a step-by-step guide here:

https://imgur.com/a/YK5A9
 
I did this MOD (the OP MOD) about 2 weeks ago, I think why your attempt failed is the backing you used under the springs. I used a wide piece of ZIP tie cut to fit the exact dimensions of the "BOX" that the spring detent unit sits in.

Also, it is MUCH easier to use and eXacto knife to "scrape" off the "25%/75%" bumps. A dremel is too hard to control. The eXacto methos takes longer, but, in the end you wind up with a smoother surface and it can remain more rounded if you are careful.

As for the "FURROW" that needs dug out, I scored a line with a straight edge (use the little rubber bumps in the white plastic piece as an approximate guide for center). I use the eXacto to score the line deep enough to guide the tip of the standard drill that comes in the dremel kit to carefully follow. The "FURROW" doesn't need to be very deep, try to keep it around .020-.030 of an inch wide. Following the score of the eXacto blade is easy, do not put pressure down and the drill will kind of naturally follow the score path (the drill orientation is perpendicular to the curved surface, ie straight up from the score line). do it from one end to the other, always starting from the same direction. (climb cutting) the weight and spin of the dremel will keep it moving forward. Just go light a few times and then press fit and test. Do this until you like the way it feels. It works great just BE CAREFUL!!!

Drex
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom