Community Event / Creation Arduino - Building a new controller for Elite - Dangerous

To get more inputs, you use a diode matrix (just a diode for every button/switch basically), so 14 inputs could give you potentially 7x7 = 49 separate inputs.

Like this:

View attachment 3968

MMjoy will run on the pro-micro, Teensy 2, and the Leonardo. The pro-micro is the cheapest option - just mount it on a piece of perf/vero board.

I see, very nice, thanks for the info!
 
To get more inputs, you use a diode matrix (just a diode for every button/switch basically), so 14 inputs could give you potentially 7x7 = 49 separate inputs.

Maybe I missed something, can you tell me why to put 49 diodes in there? Should work fine without them, as long as you don't switch a column pin to 0, another to 1, and the commander presses the wrong two buttons at the same time. And to prevent this, 7 resistors of about 10k will do the job, replacing 49 diodes. Or use a software that doesn't set columns to 0.
 
Maybe I missed something, can you tell me why to put 49 diodes in there? Should work fine without them, as long as you don't switch a column pin to 0, another to 1, and the commander presses the wrong two buttons at the same time. And to prevent this, 7 resistors of about 10k will do the job, replacing 49 diodes. Or use a software that doesn't set columns to 0.

I'm thinking that's what he meant.
 
The whole point of the diode matrix thing is that you can press any switch/button you like simultaneously without causing 'ghost' inputs.

IF you aren't using that many inputs, you might not need them. It's an 'edge case' . Google will sort you out.
 
Maybe I missed something, can you tell me why to put 49 diodes in there? Should work fine without them, as long as you don't switch a column pin to 0, another to 1, and the commander presses the wrong two buttons at the same time. And to prevent this, 7 resistors of about 10k will do the job, replacing 49 diodes. Or use a software that doesn't set columns to 0.

Example without the diodes: If you press Sw1 that will connect row 1 to col 1 thus activating input A and Sw10 to connect row 2 to col 4 which activates input J... however without diodes, inputs A and J will also "feed back" and activate inputs D and G without switches 4 and 7 being closed.
 
Example without the diodes: If you press Sw1 that will connect row 1 to col 1 thus activating input A and Sw10 to connect row 2 to col 4 which activates input J... however without diodes, inputs A and J will also "feed back" and activate inputs D and G without switches 4 and 7 being closed.
Ah, now I get it! Tnx! Wow, doing electronics for 35 years now, sometimes I don't see some obvious things before someone slaps it around my face ;)
 
I like the look of those toggles too but I was thinking more like this - with symbols for Supercruise, Hyperspace, Landing Gear etc. Maybe two different sizes, a couple of large ones in the middle for SC and HS, and smaller ones for other functions.

(Had to remove the image because I don't have enough posts yet to "link" anything)

Any ideas where to buy these? Or how to print them etc? Or at least something similar?
I have a 3D printer but even with transparent filament it would not look anything like these I suspect and I would still need to find a way to "print" the symbol on it.
 
Has anyone built a throttle controller out of one of these..

It should be simple SW/HW wise -
* Use the EDtracker SW as the base,
* Use the same Pro Micro board,
* Modify the SW to use one A/D on a slider pot as the Z axis,
* Use two other A/D inputs for a thumb joystick,
* Use the rest of the digital inputs for press to make switches or toggle switches.

I was thinking of it, but the actual physical HW to get a good hand grip (with the buttons placed properly and with the thumb joystick) I think is the sticking point. It would be hard to make a handgrip look good..

So went out and bought a CH Pro throttle instead.
 
hi guys, I've recently bought an old suncom throttle with the view to converting it to USB with a
Arduino Pro Micro
& MMJoy

having opened it up I'm completely lost, I understand I will need to create a diode matrix, but from reading some posts at the DCS forums it appears that the throttle has 3 matrix's already: 2 4x1 matrix's & one 8x1 matrix.

this is where I get lost, how do I figure out the pinouts? have my multimeter set to mesure resistance but have so far only got one result from the three matrix' how do I figure out where ground is & the row/column layout?

or am I better off rewiring it to a single 4x4 matrix that I create from scratch?
 
Hello guys,

UPDATE: Much has changed since I made this post. For updates, check my blog.

Inspired by what i’ve read here and obviously very happy with the game, i started a massive project of designing and building my very own Hotas for Elite Dangerous from the ground up. Without too much words, let me share a few pictures of what I’m currently doing.

In short, i’m using an Arduino to read the potmeters and switches, and sends them to the computer by posing as a generic USB Hid Device. Don’t be mistaken by the strange way the grips are mounted, this white plate is just a laser cut test sheet. I’m investigating to re-use motorcycle parts for thumb controls, I bought a few bits and bobs on ebay. The rest I designed and 3d-printed myself.

The basic system works quite well I just have to smooth some stuff and out and clean it all up.

Oh yes, and add a few buttons and leds while I’m busy :D


rSVjwqsl.jpg

2MFkuVkl.jpg

4M3ExlUl.jpg

XeBSm3Al.jpg

jkPTw2jl.jpg
 
Last edited:
That is EPIC - I doubt most of us could to that for under 30$(unknownvalue), but really nice clean build. I'm sure you could sell it if you wanted easy, can you add scb and chaff buttons too?

Did you fill the base with lead?
 
Last edited:
Really great work commander, there is nothing like the feel of real switches, buttons and knobs are there? I have a very similar setup except that I used a different tool to build mine, my trusty credit card! I originally built my simpit/cockpit for racing then soon after fell in love with Elite. These types of projects are one of the only big downsides to VR, I can no longer see my pretty swtiches/dash/etc. Fortunately it's all within easy reach so I can use it by feel just fine and it does still look sweet before I put on the headset or when I show it off to friends.

Here's a quick shot of my setup, there's a link to a huge guide I wrote on immersion in my signature. I've spent a *lot* of time researching every aspect of immersion in games, specifically for Elite. While there are several really great setups out there I'm guessing mine's in the top 1% or so - hell look at that, I'm a 1%'er!!

A little teaser. Oh and I don't mean to thread jack here at all, just sharing as I think you'll both enjoy and perhaps get some ideas. I know that when I put it together I checked out many *many* setups to get the ideas for how I built mine.

~X

gdtqBzc.jpg
 
Wow I've been searching for you :)

There is my Commander panel. Powered by controller from old keybord with some handmade electronic. 30$ for everything. http://www.avsim.su/forum/uploads/monthly_05_2015/post-21611-0-07233400-1432030577.jpg

Wow!!! I saw this in a image search and have been desperately trying to find who made this, its absolutely fantastic, please can u build me one? Let me know how much you will charge, I live in the U.K. but can pay via PayPal. Hope to hear from you soon :)
 
After reading this, i got curious about sending Keyboard Controls with a Microcontroller.
Its realy easy with an Ardunio R3. Its possible to flash a HID Firmware with DFU. Then it acts like a HID Keyboard.

There is my Commander panel. Powered by controller from old keybord with some handmade electronic. 30$ for everything.

I wonder how did you label it? Thats my main problem in doing something like this.
 
Back
Top Bottom