Hardware & Technical Cobra M5

Psychomorph · Oct 15, 2014

I bought me this and it's a fine joystick, but I have problems to calibrate it. The calibration software doesn't make much sense.

So in-game the ship spins to the right-bottom side. In the calibration tool I see the red point is off centre (right-bottom), when I click reset, it once put the dot to the centre and it worked, but then somehow the sensitivity of the stick increased so much, that just doing nothing would have the ship thrusters activated. So I reset again and since then the dot is off centre again.

Changing the deadzones fixes the spin, but you lose a bit responsiveness. You can set the deadzone in the calibration software, too, but this software doesn't make any sense and doesn't really work.

I had a T.Flight before that and it also spinned, but using x360ce to check "pass through" under Advanced settings, as suggested on the Internet, did fix it, but doesn't work with the Cobra.

Is there a way to properly calibrate it?

Psychomorph · Oct 15, 2014

Okay, I figured it out. Calibration tool is a bit funky. This stick is in fact so sensitive, that you need to set dead zones. It's enough to touch it lightly to have the ship spinning permanently in the game.
Wonder if it's a faulty unit, or if it's this contact-less magnetic tech stuff.

Otherwise a great stick, only a bit too light to move. I really wish it was much more firm. Guess I'll need to mod it somehow.

NeilF · Jul 27, 2015

I've noticed my makes slight "plastic groans" as I move it around. Nothing too bad, but slightly annoying.

Will these lesson with time?

Is there an obvious/easy way to maybe put on silicon grease in the unit to help?

NeilF · Jul 29, 2015

Managed to get rid of all of the creaking!

Took the unit apart piece by piece and worked out where/what it was.

At the bottom of the unit is a plastic gully which the bottom of the joystick sits in. This part allows the joystick to move left/right while locking the part of the mechanics measuring forwards/backwards movement.

When you move left/right the bottom "" of the joystick slides left/right in the gully. If you've moved forwards/backwards then the mechanism is trying to pull this entire bottom part (gully) back to center. This was causing the "" of the bottom of the joystick to grind slightly against the inside/edge of the gully as it went left/right. Hence creaking noise & unsmooth movement left/right.

By taking it all apart, ensuring the inside of the gully channel was smooth, and giving it (& everywhere else) a huge coating of silicon grease, the joystick is now basically silent.

The only noise I can hear are tiny little spring stretching noise. But very very quiet!

The gully is on the other side of where the arrow is pointing. It's very easy to get to - You need to remove the four screws indicated and you can slide the whole part out! (best to remove the spring to)

Ravenov · Jul 29, 2015

I actually like the lightness of the Cobra, i find it easier to make small corrections when not wrestling with a heavy stick. I have seen photos of a metal gimbal assembly, not sure if they were custom made or off the shelf, but they looked good.

One thing with mine is that the 4 way hat has lost some of its positive feel through use (i have it set to pips/ui, and before i got my CH throttle also targeting) -it still works fine but doesn't click on the down stroke, just feels mushy. Also pity that the yaw is just a regular pot, again i think you can upgrade it to a magnetic sensor but i haven't looked into it too deeply yet.

NeilF · Jul 29, 2015

Ravenov said:
I actually like the lightness of the Cobra, i find it easier to make small corrections when not wrestling with a heavy stick. I have seen photos of a metal gimbal assembly, not sure if they were custom made or off the shelf, but they looked good.

One thing with mine is that the 4 way hat has lost some of its positive feel through use (i have it set to pips/ui, and before i got my CH throttle also targeting) -it still works fine but doesn't click on the down stroke, just feels mushy. Also pity that the yaw is just a regular pot, again i think you can upgrade it to a magnetic sensor but i haven't looked into it too deeply yet.

And your M5 movement is silent? Specifically if you push forward or backwards, then move left/right? No creaking?

Ahh! You have a CH Throttle too? I've spent ages so far perfecting my layout, I'll list here soon if it interests you

The two issues I have with the M5 in general are:-
1) It's a very large movement. So you end up moving your whole arm rather than just wrist.
2) The hats/buttons on the top are not that easy to reach/use. Worst thing is if you have your thumb folded around the side, at times trying to get it out to then use on the top hats/buttons if uncomfortable.

With the CH Throttle:-
1) The flat movement of the throttle means it's hard to feel where you are. ie: With a traditional throttle you get a feeling of how much thrust you're applying by the angle of the lever.
2) It's a very large movement, which seems a bit OTT.
3) The micro joystick is poor at recentering so a deadzone is required.

ps: Do you use your three way mode select switch (BVR/NAV/VIS) on the M5? If not, here's a suggestion. Leave it in the middle, then you can assign, flick up and back to middle as Landing Gear, and flick down and back to middle as Cargo Hatch - Works nicely

I'm knocking up a sheet along these lines if you're interested in a copy for yourself...

Ravenov · Jul 29, 2015

Again, i like the long throw, more precision that way. Agree on the button placement, it seems designed for big hands (although the shaft is fairly slender). Would be nice if the left button was mounted part way up the stick on the thumb rest (I've seen a mod done, but not had the gumption to hack up mine to do it). When i first got mine i put a pad on the hand rest to raise my hand up a little, but I've since removed it as i got used to the size.

I do use the selector, kind of. I use down and right button for silent running so i don't activate it accidentally. Also the pinky button for boost so it can be folded down to make the engines safe while in the dock.

With the CH throttle i have more hats than i really need, so i duplicate some functions such as pips and UI controls so that i can do them right or left handed as required.

NeilF · Jul 29, 2015

Ravenov said:
Again, i like the long throw, more precision that way. Agree on the button placement, it seems designed for big hands (although the shaft is fairly slender). Would be nice if the left button was mounted part way up the stick on the thumb rest (I've seen a mod done, but not had the gumption to hack up mine to do it). When i first got mine i put a pad on the hand rest to raise my hand up a little, but I've since removed it as i got used to the size.

I do use the selector, kind of. I use down and right button for silent running so i don't activate it accidentally. Also the pinky button for boost so it can be folded down to make the engines safe while in the dock.

With the CH throttle i have more hats than i really need, so i duplicate some functions such as pips and UI controls so that i can do them right or left handed as required.

Did you like my suggestion about landing gear/cargo hatch on the M5's mode selector?

Ravenov · Jul 29, 2015

NeilF said:
Did you like my suggestion about landing gear/cargo hatch on the M5's mode selector?

I can see the merit, but i prefer just using up or down, too much chance of an overshoot for me. Plus i have gear on the throttle, and i scoop so rarely that it's not bound beyond the keyboard.

Kayurin · Oct 30, 2015

There is actually a Calibration Software?

I thought it was Plug&Pray...

ndrwc · Nov 11, 2015

I double checked this before buying the stick to make sure it would do what I wanted - since the mode switch gives lots of extra buttons, as well as acting as a set of buttons itself, I've set up my bindings as follows:

Not shown: Galmap controls (I generally use the mouse).

The left hat / side buttons / pinkie switch are obvious enough, the right hat (since it shows up as a POV hat) is mapped as follows (if you don't want to mess with the bindings XML):

Change switch to a position next to the desired switch position for the bind
Select bind to alter
Change switch to desired position
Move hat in desired direction
Release hat

The "button up" from the hat saves the bind. It would probably also worth with the triggers but I haven't tried it.

Almost enough buttons on this that you don't need a separate throttle

NeilF · Nov 12, 2015

ndrwc said:
I double checked this before buying the stick to make sure it would do what I wanted - since the mode switch gives lots of extra buttons, as well as acting as a set of buttons itself, I've set up my bindings as follows:

View attachment 74802

Not shown: Galmap controls (I generally use the mouse).

The left hat / side buttons / pinkie switch are obvious enough, the right hat (since it shows up as a POV hat) is mapped as follows (if you don't want to mess with the bindings XML):

Change switch to a position next to the desired switch position for the bind

Select bind to alter

Change switch to desired position

Move hat in desired direction

Release hat

The "button up" from the hat saves the bind. It would probably also worth with the triggers but I haven't tried it.

Almost enough buttons on this that you don't need a separate throttle

I really wouldn't want to be toggling the mode switch during critical moments! I just cannot see that working TBH!?

Indeed, quite the opposite, I use my mode switch button for very not critical moment stuff. From center position:-
- UP/DOWN = Landing gear
- DOWN/UP = Cargo hatch
...works nicely

If only there was a HOLD option for landing gear, then it could just be UP for gear, and DOWN for the hatch. Anyhoo!

And as for primary and secondary fire as you have them, how can you only fire your seconday weapons?

Personally I find the two top hat switches a little unfriendly to use. Luckily I have loads of more friendly alternatives on my CH throttle.

ndrwc · Nov 14, 2015

NeilF said:
And as for primary and secondary fire as you have them, how can you only fire your seconday weapons?

Reach under the primary trigger - index finger on secondary and middle finger reaching out to primary.

NeilF · Nov 14, 2015

ndrwc said:
Reach under the primary trigger - index finger on secondary and middle finger reaching out to primary.

Oooh! Don't find that comfortable at all

Ravenov · Nov 14, 2015

I actually re bound the secondary trigger to primary as i find it easier to use for UI stuff. The fact that you can lock the other trigger out of the way is quite nice too.

NeilF · Jul 25, 2016

NeilF said:
Managed to get rid of all of the creaking!

Took the unit apart piece by piece and worked out where/what it was.

At the bottom of the unit is a plastic gully which the bottom of the joystick sits in. This part allows the joystick to move left/right while locking the part of the mechanics measuring forwards/backwards movement.

When you move left/right the bottom "" of the joystick slides left/right in the gully. If you've moved forwards/backwards then the mechanism is trying to pull this entire bottom part (gully) back to center. This was causing the "" of the bottom of the joystick to grind slightly against the inside/edge of the gully as it went left/right. Hence creaking noise & unsmooth movement left/right.

By taking it all apart, ensuring the inside of the gully channel was smooth, and giving it (& everywhere else) a huge coating of silicon grease, the joystick is now basically silent.

The only noise I can hear are tiny little spring stretching noise. But very very quiet!

The gully is on the other side of where the arrow is pointing. It's very easy to get to - You need to remove the four screws indicated and you can slide the whole part out! (best to remove the spring to)

View attachment 52497

My *creaking* is sort of back again... So maybe this ^^^^ needs to be an annual service!?