1:1 ratio on AM5 doesn't refer to Fabric, but only to UCLK:MCLK (memory controller and memory I/O clock). Fabric cannot scale high enough to match memory clock, except at very low speeds (a great Raphael or very good Granite RIdge CPU tops out at 2200 FCLK, which would only be 1:1 with the memory up to 4400MT/s).
1:1 UCLK:MCLK can generally scale to 3200MHz or so (less on some samples, very rarely more), but fabric will unavoidably be much lower. 1:2 UCLK:MCLK is needed for higher memory speeds, which generally means that gap between 6400 and 8000 is often slower than 6000-6400.
There is also a tiny edge (half a nanosecond of memory latency) to using a 2:3 FCLK to UCLK ratio at the 1:1 UCLK to MCLK ratio and a somewhat larger edge (1-2ns) to holding a 1:1 FCLK to UCLK ratio at the 1:2 UCLK:MCLK ratio. This is where that 2000 FCLK DDR5-6000 'sweet spot' comes from...it's not the fastest or best, but it's something that performs well that 99% of AM5 parts can do with voltage safe enough to include in XMP/EXPO presets. For tweakers/overclockers, getting UCLK as high as possible then using the fastest unconditionally stable FCLK is what generally provides the best performance (even small increases in FCLK typically result in larger gains than trying to stick to a particular ratio).
AM4 CPUs generally run 1:1:1 (FCLK:UCLK:MCLK), which is optimal, because DDR4 didn't really scale high enough to justify breaking that ratio. DDR5 increased memory clocks dramatically, but AM5 only modestly increased Fabric clocks.
The 5700X is an entirely competent CPU, but Odyssey is very sensitive to memory performance on this platform, especially if one doesn't have an X3D part.
I generally think 8GiB cards are rather anemic for Odyssey at this point, but if no 10GiB+ parts fit your budget, then the RX 7600 should do fine.
What PSU exactly? Wattage and 80+ rating don't say much about quality, in and of themselves.
The game tracks device IDs/instances and anything that causes these values to be different from when everything was setup will break bindings. Using different ports, different input/controller software, or any kind of translation layer (e.g. Steam Input) can do this if one doesn't ensure everything is configured exactly the same as it was last time ED was setup the next time it's launched.
Personally, I'd start from the beginning. Figure out exactly how you want your controls connected to the system and connect them, remove any non-present devices from device manager, delete all custom binding from the game's settings folders, disable Steam Input or any macro software, start the game, reconfigure bindings, make sure they work, then manually save that binding file somewhere as a reference/backup.
