Fixing the Thrustmaster T.Flight Hotas 4 for PS4 and PC

I ended up buying 2 Thrustmaster Hotas 4's for the PS4. The first one started inputting Pitch, Yaw, and Roll even when at rest. It became so frustrating and difficult to control the ship I bought a new one. That one eventually did the same thing. So... I'm assuming many of you may have the same issues.

It is possible to sort of fix this by going into options > controls > flight rotation and opening the hidden setting for your directional controls by pressing [triangle] and increasing the dead zone. Or you can do one better. The sensors in the controller are a little loose in their fixtures. Shimming them nice and tight will significantly improve your errant directional command issues.

You're going to need to open up the controller. Get a phillips head screwdriver, a sharp knife, some duct tape, and a rag or tissue to clean up any excess grease. For safety always unplug your controller before opening it up and exposing the electrical components.

To open up the flight handle, you need to remove 4 screws. Once the handle is open, the Yaw sensor is right at the top of the post inside the handle. Cut a single strip of duct tape just long enough that will cover the sides and the top of the sensor so it fits more snugly in place when you replace the handle.

To get to the Pitch and Roll sensors you need to take the bottom off the handle side of the controller. Loosen up the wire connecting the two halves of the controller if it isn't already. Loosen or remove the 9 phillips head screws holding the bottom plate on. For this part, I prefer to leave the screws in the holes as there are 3 different lengths and I don't want to forget which ones go in which holes.

Once you pry the bottom plate off, you should see two sensors just like the Yaw sensor sticking out of the sides of the base of the flight stick (the big white plastic part in the middle). To get these sensors out, remove the 4 screws holding the flight stick base in place. This will allow you to move it just enough to pop the sensors out. The sensors have a post sticking into the flight stick base that is perpendicular to the largest surface (the back of the sensor). Remove the sensors from the base of the flight stick. Clean off any excess grease on the base of the sensors, but not the post. Cut a small square of duct tape that will cover just the back of each sensor, and another strip that will cover the sides and back of each sensor. Two layers on the back, one layer on the sides. Replace the sensors, making sure the duct tape stays in place. If the duct tape doesn't stay, you may need to clean the grease off a little better. Once the tape covered sensors are back in place, there should be no wiggle. Add another layer if there is any wiggle (your tape may be thicker or thinner than what I used).

Screw the base of the flight stick back in place. Replace the bottom of the controller and screw that back on. Plug the controller back into your ps4 or pc and fire up ED. Start flying around and re-adjust your dead zones.

This fix drastically improved my controllers, I hope it helps those of you having the same issues.
 
Yes - its a rubbish really isnt it? Between the hard bump on the throttle (I sanded mine down it was soooo intolerable), and the infuriating squeak (took ages to find the right lubricant to stop that infernal squeak!) and now my Hat switch has developed a soft zone....*sigh, and the short connector cable etc. etc.

In any case - yes you can do all that, but you can also set the deadzones / sensitivity in the game options if you experience drift and judder.

I just hope they support the new HORI stick and I can bin this Thrustmaster.....
 
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Did you managed to figure out a fix for this? Mine has the same thing - I suddenly discovered that pressing down on the swtich odesn't have that snap/click to it. Still seems to work for now but feels weird!

I'm going to guess you guys are talking about the D-pad, or the mushroom hat? if so, here are some pictures of mine and what the buttons look like inside. They are called mini/tiny etc. tact momentary switches. The difference between these and the L3 button on the right in the 3rd picture, is that, the L3 has 4 legs/pins and the D-pad ones have two coming off of the side. You may not need this information anymore, but maybe someone else might. The ones used in here are (VERY IMPORTANT TO GET THE SIZE CORRECT) 6x6x5mm. here is a link to aliexpress for reference.


buttonmeasered4.2.jpg


hotasDpadhatbuttons2.2.jpg
hotasDpadhatbuttons1.2.jpg
hotasDpadhatbuttons3.2.jpg
 
I must have been very lucky with mine, it withstood 2000 hours of play so far. Its surface has been rubbed clean by my hands, the throttle has lost quite some traction, I have to press some of the buttons a bit harder sometimes, and, of course there's the squeaking that doesn't even go fully away despite regular maintenance by disassembly and applying of silicone grease. But still, it works without drift and invokes that "car you've driven half your life" feel everytime I put my hands on it.
Still, I just ordered a new one that should arrive tomorrow just in case it finally breaks down for good. The market has been picked clean of all brands of flight sticks since the MS Flight Sim release, and I suppose the news that Squadrons will support HOTAS on consoles won't help there either, and I couldn't stand being without one for longer periods of time (Elite with a DS4? Shudder).
 
and I suppose the news that Squadrons will support HOTAS on consoles won't help there either, and I couldn't stand being without one for longer periods of time (Elite with a DS4? Shudder).
Ace combat 7 / VR tacked on mode use caused it to go back to full price and stay there... The game may be good but the Namco deal put the end to cheap price on the Hotas...
Using the DS4 on geforce now and remote play does realy show that the hotas is realy under rated in use by developers...
 
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I must have been very lucky with mine, it withstood 2000 hours of play so far. Its surface has been rubbed clean by my hands, the throttle has lost quite some traction, I have to press some of the buttons a bit harder sometimes, and, of course there's the squeaking that doesn't even go fully away despite regular maintenance by disassembly and applying of silicone grease. But still, it works without drift and invokes that "car you've driven half your life" feel everytime I put my hands on it.
Still, I just ordered a new one that should arrive tomorrow just in case it finally breaks down for good. The market has been picked clean of all brands of flight sticks since the MS Flight Sim release, and I suppose the news that Squadrons will support HOTAS on consoles won't help there either, and I couldn't stand being without one for longer periods of time (Elite with a DS4? Shudder).
Snap I have a second new one waiting to go as well and my origional is on 2500+ hours and still going strong without any maintenance at all long may it continue 🙏
 
Red alert red alert,get up and change the bulb...
Got a user on reddit with the ace combat 7 build by the looks of it and the QC failures of doggy POTs may have been moved to the throttle and not the yaw controlls...
Hes got a not working right throttle issue in all games... looks like they may have relocated the duff POTs in new builds..
If he actauly replys in stead of running a mile as post once never seen again users do ill keep this updated...
Hes going to reflash the firmware on PC aka reset it... but if its the POT that just going to fail anyway...
Edit =Yep user has busted throttle.
 
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The user on reddit did buy the AC7 branded version...

The throttle has stopped supplying the correct voltage to feed the - to + values... to max levels but the YAW still works fine this is on PC and PS4...
There going to try the thrustmaster disable and replace system as they had it over a year..
They got it for Ace combat 7 but that game has zero community on web sites so had to ask on ED reddit as there are actualy people there...

So in this case the YAW remains working fine... kryten has again got up and changed the light blub back to amber...
So even the new builds 2019 prove they can fail...
His axis 3 is not going all the way wont reach -32767 forward or +32767 for Reverse...

PS any one else notice the hat switch was planned as analogue Axis usage but was released as a digital version only...
 
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Ive developed a new drift this time on Vertical axis it drifts down so far only a bit annoying when shooting a prospector , I need to manualy keep target

Ive also sometimes got a bit of a dead spot on throttle having to forward /back to engage wake

The hat is also not so quick to function when offloading cargo in missions
 
I had a similar issue. I tried the tape method described in this post, but it never worked for more than a day or 2. After pluging in to my lap top and opening the diagnostic tool to check all the sensors an buttons I noticed that the pitch was jumping up and down and would only settle down briefly after moving back and forth a few times. It turned out the pitch sensor had gone noisy. I removed the sensor from its seating, gave it a good squirting of WD 40 contact cleaner through the vents on the back, then carefully moved it from stop to stop with my fingers. So far this appears to have worked, with no issues after nearly a week of use.
 
DSC_0000006.jpg

After all the posts this was bound to happen pushing the luck talking about it so it was bound to go wrong, ship pulling right and no left yaw so yep the white wire has split off from the POT...
( weres the solidering iron too... bet i can't find it now )
Fixed...
DSC_0000008.jpg
 
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I ended up buying 2 Thrustmaster Hotas 4's for the PS4. The first one started inputting Pitch, Yaw, and Roll even when at rest. It became so frustrating and difficult to control the ship I bought a new one. That one eventually did the same thing. So... I'm assuming many of you may have the same issues.

It is possible to sort of fix this by going into options > controls > flight rotation and opening the hidden setting for your directional controls by pressing [triangle] and increasing the dead zone. Or you can do one better. The sensors in the controller are a little loose in their fixtures. Shimming them nice and tight will significantly improve your errant directional command issues.

You're going to need to open up the controller. Get a phillips head screwdriver, a sharp knife, some duct tape, and a rag or tissue to clean up any excess grease. For safety always unplug your controller before opening it up and exposing the electrical components.

To open up the flight handle, you need to remove 4 screws. Once the handle is open, the Yaw sensor is right at the top of the post inside the handle. Cut a single strip of duct tape just long enough that will cover the sides and the top of the sensor so it fits more snugly in place when you replace the handle.

To get to the Pitch and Roll sensors you need to take the bottom off the handle side of the controller. Loosen up the wire connecting the two halves of the controller if it isn't already. Loosen or remove the 9 phillips head screws holding the bottom plate on. For this part, I prefer to leave the screws in the holes as there are 3 different lengths and I don't want to forget which ones go in which holes.

Once you pry the bottom plate off, you should see two sensors just like the Yaw sensor sticking out of the sides of the base of the flight stick (the big white plastic part in the middle). To get these sensors out, remove the 4 screws holding the flight stick base in place. This will allow you to move it just enough to pop the sensors out. The sensors have a post sticking into the flight stick base that is perpendicular to the largest surface (the back of the sensor). Remove the sensors from the base of the flight stick. Clean off any excess grease on the base of the sensors, but not the post. Cut a small square of duct tape that will cover just the back of each sensor, and another strip that will cover the sides and back of each sensor. Two layers on the back, one layer on the sides. Replace the sensors, making sure the duct tape stays in place. If the duct tape doesn't stay, you may need to clean the grease off a little better. Once the tape covered sensors are back in place, there should be no wiggle. Add another layer if there is any wiggle (your tape may be thicker or thinner than what I used).

Screw the base of the flight stick back in place. Replace the bottom of the controller and screw that back on. Plug the controller back into your ps4 or pc and fire up ED. Start flying around and re-adjust your dead zones.

This fix drastically improved my controllers, I hope it helps those of you having the same issues.
I know that this post was made a while ago but do you happen to have any pictures regarding the proper removal of the sensors for the pitch axis? Mine don't seem to be coming off and I do not want to put any kind of force on it that might break it.
 
I'm also at my second T-Flight 4.
First one was wrong since day 0, too much drift on all axes, I instantly returned it.
The second one worked smooth, but after tens of hours of game it started showing annoying issues:
1 - A slight drift in the Yaw, which I think it's caused by the relatively loose potentiometer in the handle (as described above)
2 - a much more annoying issue which I haven't found posted anywhere yet: when I pitch up or down to the limit of the pull/push (where the shaft is blocked by the plastic edge) it seems like it is receiving less input. So if a slowly move the handle forward or backward stopping before reaching the maximum pull/push it seems to be responding ok, but it is clearly not enough for dogfights were I need to be able to perform sharp and quick drifts. I can't understand if it could be more linked to the lubricant, to something wrong with the sensors at the base or something else. It surely is not fixable with deadzones because it's basically the opposite of movement when the stick is neutral. In my case it doesn't fully respond when I pull/push to the max drift possible, it reacts intermittently, like sobbing, and it's very annoying.

Anyone faced this issue?
 
Perhaps , but its a more difficult one to know for sure for me as Im playing a bit less/developing an Alt so avoiding combat till Ive got my engineering right

My Hotus is at 3500 hours now and has had the Yawing issue / Pitch stability/and maybe the UP Down loss of some movement but not so sure on the last , it has also remarkably healed itselfe with no intervention from me

I have a new spare waiting as DS4 is not for me imaginable

I also just got Ace Combat and am having to relearn stuff ,specifically the throttle (in ED terms) has to be in full reverse to be at 0 meh lol

The Hotus keybinds are so vauge and there isnt a training space on the game to practice or be prompted (unless im missing something) :unsure:
 
The Thrustmaster hotas is a very decent system when it works, the issue is in the pots...they are not the best quality and after prolonged use they start acting erratic. A quick fix that has worked for me is to remove the pots, rotate them to their full extent both directions and re install them. That has worked 100% and removes all of the x,y axis drift for a couple of months at a time. For a long term solution I just ordered a set of replacement pots from mouser.com...hopefully that will fix things permanently but we’ll see
 
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I solved, probably temporary but with great results, the issue I reported in point 2 of my post of December 8th by aboundantly spraying the pots at the base (for y and x axes) with WD40 contact cleaner. I wouldn't have guessed it could be caused just by dirt, but luckly it seems so.
@chief-raincoat I don't understand what's the precise action when you say "rotate them to their full extent (I have little knowledge of pots, even if I managed to clean them). Also, how could you find the corret type of pots on mouser.com?
 
I solved, probably temporary but with great results, the issue I reported in point 2 of my post of December 8th by aboundantly spraying the pots at the base (for y and x axes) with WD40 contact cleaner. I wouldn't have guessed it could be caused just by dirt, but luckly it seems so.
@chief-raincoat I don't understand what's the precise action when you say "rotate them to their full extent (I have little knowledge of pots, even if I managed to clean them). Also, how could you find the corret type of pots on mouser.com?

What I meant is that after removing the pots I rotate them by hand all the way on both directions since once they are installed they will only rotate to the extent the joystick will allow. I also suspect the issue is dirt related. The pots that I ordered I found on another thread of some guys to find replacement . The pots are physically identical tonthe original ones but I have yet to solder them.

 
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