Community Event / Creation Project Name: Desk Top SimPit (D.S.P)

Hey everyone,

I’m posting this to share my experience with this build.
Any input or constructive criticism is always welcome.

Project Name: Desk Top SimPit (D.S.P)
Back ground:
I started this build because I love to play Elite Dangerous. I primarily used my Saitek X52 setup, however I still found myself reaching for the keyboard on occasion and I wanted to put an end to that. Looking around on this forum and others I was inspired by many other projects (especially those for FSX). Unfortunately I am unable to transform my office into one large cockpit with 3 projectors and a large sit in sim console, so I’ve developed the next best thing (for me). I’ve made a 3 part box set that sit side by side on my desk (large L shaped desk) that convert my desk into a flight console. This 3 box approach will allow for easy storage of my flight console and yet still provide me with a great deal of emersion while it’s in use.

Design:

This build consists of a Left, Middle and Right box, all 3 are individual but connecting.
The left box:
This box has two button panels and holds the Saitek throttle.
Middle Box:
This box has two button panels and has room to hold my 10 inch table in the center (tablet runs the companion app for ED).
Right Box:
This box has two button panels and hold the Saitek joystick.
Not counting the buttons provided by the Saitek X52, there are 31 push buttons / flip switches and 5 rotary encoders also each box has several indicator LEDs for different conditions. Each of these inputs are wired into an Arduino Due board that is running keyboard emulation code. This allows a user to plug the Arduino Due into a USB port and the PC will detect it as a HMID (like a keyboard or mouse). I decided to use this approach because I would not be limited by the number of inputs allowed and I could use any type of switch , sensor , LED , encoder I wanted.


Initial 3D mock up:

lZpfVWX.jpg


Some building pics (1/8 inch MDF):

IUxcVgu.jpg


Glued, shaped, sanded,:

IHQL7DR.jpg


Filled / Primed (to seal the MDF and allow for Vinyl to better sick):

AIXsMGi.jpg


Face plates cut:

wOIN4wV.jpg
6lmafEs.jpg




Carbon Fiber Vinyl wrapped:

bR7GRXl.jpg
All Parts set in place (not properly mounted just set in place to get an idea of how it all looks):

jhQXnBl.jpg
 
Last edited:
Subscribed!

I'm seeing good things coming, nice job.




Thanks! currently my build is starting to stall out. I'm finding it difficult to route all my controls into a single Arduino Due, because of the need for 53 I/o Pins and the complexity of the code to drive Switches, rotary encoders and LEDs via one Arduino...... I have considered using diodes to multiplex the I/O pins and this would give me way more addition I/Os then i would need. However it would make a gigantic mess of the wiring and iv tried to design a few PCB's (1 sided as that is all i can make at home) and i just cant design anything reasonable in size or complexity. currently I'm searching to other avenues to wire everything up... I had chosen the Arduino Due b/c of its ability to act as a native keyboard..... perhaps I should invest in 2 more ? one for each box ? the biggest draw back i see to this would be the requirement of having to use 4 USB ports (one for each Arduino and one for the Satik sticks)..... any thoughts ?
 
Diodes and matrices makes it complex and tricky to debug for beginners. Either use more arduinos or start using IO rxpanders. A great tutorial is http://www.gammon.com.au/forum/?id=10945 also check his other pages for good explanations.

my tip: start small. Expand later.

get comfortable with a 8-button panel. Switches or buttons. Then experiment with rotary encoders and sliders.
 
I've played around on a small scale to make sure I could get the individual parts working... now I'm trying to figure out how to most effectively scale up... I'm leaning towards 3 boards... one or more for each box.... unfortunately the Arduino Due is not cheap... any suggestions on other boards to use ?
 
So, with those boards (linked in the above post by Cataclysm72) I would have to use at least 4 (I have 53 inputs ) that's a total of 5 USB cables... I can do that with a USB switch but would there be any noticeable performance issues running so many "keyboards"

- - - - - Additional Content Posted / Auto Merge - - - - -

I dig it! And like the way you think. Wish I could pull that off, but am happy with the setup I currently have :)

https://forums.frontier.co.uk/showt...vized-setup)?p=1473854&viewfull=1#post1473854

if I ever get more ambitious, though, it'll no doubt end up being closer to yours in concept!




Nice work Mossfoot! I like the way you think. The way you repurposed that equipment was very creative.
 
Last edited:
So, with those boards (linked in the above post by Cataclysm72) I would have to use at least 4 (I have 53 inputs ) that's a total of 5 USB cables... I can do that with a USB switch but would there be any noticeable performance issues running so many "keyboards
Maybe you are seeing problems that aren't there.

I have 3 pro micros hooked up with 4 or 5 IO expanders in total. The joystick and throttle have 32 switches (not all used) and my diy keyboard (nav computer) has 6x12 matrix. In total i have maybe 120 switches to check. Performance or response has never been an issue.
 
Maybe you are seeing problems that aren't there.

I have 3 pro micros hooked up with 4 or 5 IO expanders in total. The joystick and throttle have 32 switches (not all used) and my diy keyboard (nav computer) has 6x12 matrix. In total i have maybe 120 switches to check. Performance or response has never been an issue.



I see. This would not be the 1st time i have "Over Thought" something lol.


Also Cataclysm72, that tutorial you listed is very detailed! I'm going to mock something up using the techniques described there and post it here for peer review before making my purchase. but that may have been just the thing I was looking for ! Thanks!,
 
hey battlegrade whatyadoin here

Well, its a ED rig/build so poof, also adding content and jack'n threadz looks like your up to the same. :cool:

Thanks Battlegrade. i just checked out your build, I am very impressed if I ever get enough room to build a larger unit I will definitely be using inspiration from your set up !
Thx, its a forever WIP, I want to say there is an end-date but I don't really believe that.
And it looks big but isn't [yet] its the pics, they kind of distort that part but I do have it in the "cave" and its roomy down here.
Cat's and the CP1 have "bigger" ones, oh uh, wait what, lol. :eek:

There are some really great sim/chair/pit/panel builds, they are all inspiring and its cool to see what everyone comes up with.
Always love to see progress pics and the blogging that comes along with the builds.

Keep adding!
 
so quick update,


I believe im on the path to completing this project... (thanks to the help you you folks)

Attached is a drawing of my I/O layout using a Arduino Pro Micro and the MCP20317 IC(s) for one of my boxes (right side). with this i should be able to wire everything up, unfortunately i am still waiting for the parts to arrive so I wont be able to test it out for a few more days...:(


please take a look and see if you guys notice any issues (I tried to make as many notes as i could to keep it readable to others)....



WWDpJEA.png
 
You could save 6 pins by changing the connections for the toggle switches. Instead of

1 IO
2 Gnd
3 IO

you could do

1 5v
2 io
3 gnd

this will cause a digital signal to go high or low.
 
Last edited:
You could save 6 pins by changing the connections for the toggle switches. Instead of

1 IO
2 Gnd
3 IO

you could do

1 5v
2 io
3 gnd

this will cause a digital signal to go high or low.



I think i know were you are going with that, but I'm not sure if it would implement correctly for the switches I have (please advise).

The toggle switches i am using are on-off-on and are Momentary spring loaded to return to center (I toggle it up and then it returns to center when I release). I think using the method you described i would have to use NON-momentary switches right ?

link to my switches : http://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-DPDT-Mo...le-Switches-5A-1-4-on-off-on-a5-/261278996182

I went with this style to better emulate a "Key-stroke" I intended on using both directions of the toggle to emulate 2 different keystrokes (i.e up = lights on / down = lights off so in my mind i thought i would need to use to different Arduino I/O pins...).
 
Last edited:
In that case, yes i agree. It also saves you from weird 'state'.

you realize though, that there is no different key for 'enable lights' or a 'disable lights in Elite', but as an example it works.
 
In that case, yes i agree. It also saves you from weird 'state'.

you realize though, that there is no different key for 'enable lights' or a 'disable lights in Elite', but as an example it works.

Ya the lights were just an example, but also this way if I ever choose to reassign keys / buttons I won't have to rewire / add wire to anything... each state of my switch will be connected to the arduino for "future use"

Thanks for the idea though, that concept hadn't even occurred to me or maybe I would have gotten regular switches instead. I'll keep that idea in mind for future projects.
 
Last edited:
Good thinking ahead.

Too bad it doesn't work for me. I engrave the panels with their distinctive task. The buttons are mapped to a USB game controller (on off buttons), so i doubt that they'll ever get another purpose in life. My software developer philosophy is to build what you need right now, not what you might need in the future. Fix the hardware, fix the firmware, fix the configuration, something always needs updating eventually. I guess that deformation trickles through a little too much.
 
Back
Top Bottom