T.Flight hotas 4 failure
- Thread starter fransoos
- Start date
The pots wear out over time, so it's best to set a deadzone. On my different stick I use the software it came with, but I think there are some ways to add deadzones in the game.
Just had to do that on all my DS4s.
I have also the T Flight hotas and this happening with me also from time to time.
Not always, sometimes a month or longer no problems and suddenly a couple of days this problem, and gone again.
My opinion this isn't an issue with the hotas but rather somewhere else. Server/client related?
Not always, sometimes a month or longer no problems and suddenly a couple of days this problem, and gone again.
My opinion this isn't an issue with the hotas but rather somewhere else. Server/client related?
I have two, one an older model and the current one. Both do it, it's a hardware problem.
Short term solution, have the calibration screen for the TFlight4 open all the time when playing Elite, when it starts to drift just alt-tab to the calibration and take 2 seconds to move the joystick in every direction while twisting the stick, alt-tab back to game and it will work again for an hour or two.
Longer term you can unscrew the stick/buttons and access the twist pot, clean with some kind of switch cleaner, wd40 doesn't work as it evaporates but something similar. Fixes it for a few weeks/months.
Longer term - well I just live with it, rather than buying an expensive stick
There are some Youtube videos on how to deal with this problem, which is basically down to the cheap pot on the yaw axis. I think one guy changed the pot to a better quality one, but the procedure was quite complicated.
Just had to do that on all my DS4s.
I get it intermittently on my x52 too, but I hope I don't run out of deadzones!
WD40 is not a cleaner and does not evaporate. It is a light oil that is designed to penetrate and will leave a residue.
A proper switch cleaner will evaporate very quickly and leave no residue.
I have a ps4, so I don't have this ps3 switch. I do have a ps switch but it is set to pc. thanks for responding.
FWIW, I upgraded from a T-Flight to a T16000M and TWCS a couple of years ago, and had the "drifting yaw" issue on both sticks.
The temporary fix is to remove the screws from the stick and spray the potentiometer with some electrical contact cleaner - usually sorts it for 5-6 months, then needs doing again. Takes about 5 mins all in...
A more permanent solution would be to replace the potentiometer with a more robust one, but that would require soldering, etc
As I said, had the issue on BOTH the T-Flight and the T16000M - tbh, the T16000M seems to be more afflicted than the T-Flight...
Yeah, that's right. I do have the drifting on both joysticks. But on my T16000M i'ts less notable.
May be I have to spray the potentiometer too
.Evaporate, not evaporate, I knew it was one or the other
This isn't so much a help - but an addendum. I have the Xbox version of the sticks and the yaw issues is a known hardware fault.
Depending how long you've had the HOTAS (and where you live) you might be able to get a replacement.
Deadzones didn't actually help with me, and the only working option was to open fiddle/clean.
So if the deadzone fix don't do right by you - It's not you, it's the HOTAS
Depending how long you've had the HOTAS (and where you live) you might be able to get a replacement.
Deadzones didn't actually help with me, and the only working option was to open fiddle/clean.
So if the deadzone fix don't do right by you - It's not you, it's the HOTAS
I also have the xbox version. it is undoubtedly a potentiometer issue.
Don't be frightened by that.
Once you get used to unscrewing it and cleaning the pots it becomes a routine bit of maintenance you can perform in about 20 mins. Open it up and get familiar with the insides. just be careful as you put it back together as the wires are very easy to pinch off. All you have to do is take it apart to gain access to the pots.. pull them out of their housing, rotate them to their full extent in each direaction a couple of times and clean away any grease or particles that may have collected.
I keep a bit of insulating tape to wrap the three connection wire points in after I have reconnected the pot to it's housing as this area is sometimes a little exposed near the area of hotglue that the manufacture has used to keep it in place.
All in all this fix will last about 2-3 months of heavy use before needing to be done again. It's not too bad once you get used to it and saves chucking an otherwise perfectly usable piece of kit.
This is what the pots look like:
The two pots for the roll and pitch are located in the base, the pot for the yaw is located in the shaft of the handle. This is in my opinion the harder of the pots to access as putting the handle back together is a bit more difficult. The top part of the stick contains a middle section that pops out when the two clamshell pieces either side are released from each other. A little tip to deal with this is to take a bit of tape and tape this third piece to one of the sides so it's easier to put bach together.
*N.B. There is a jutting out bar that slides home into a corresponding shaft when putting the handle back together that is very close to the wires and if you are not careful it's easy to pinch them off. But take your time, be careful and it will be no problem.
Hope this helps
Don't be frightened by that.
Once you get used to unscrewing it and cleaning the pots it becomes a routine bit of maintenance you can perform in about 20 mins. Open it up and get familiar with the insides. just be careful as you put it back together as the wires are very easy to pinch off. All you have to do is take it apart to gain access to the pots.. pull them out of their housing, rotate them to their full extent in each direaction a couple of times and clean away any grease or particles that may have collected.
I keep a bit of insulating tape to wrap the three connection wire points in after I have reconnected the pot to it's housing as this area is sometimes a little exposed near the area of hotglue that the manufacture has used to keep it in place.
All in all this fix will last about 2-3 months of heavy use before needing to be done again. It's not too bad once you get used to it and saves chucking an otherwise perfectly usable piece of kit.
This is what the pots look like:
The two pots for the roll and pitch are located in the base, the pot for the yaw is located in the shaft of the handle. This is in my opinion the harder of the pots to access as putting the handle back together is a bit more difficult. The top part of the stick contains a middle section that pops out when the two clamshell pieces either side are released from each other. A little tip to deal with this is to take a bit of tape and tape this third piece to one of the sides so it's easier to put bach together.
*N.B. There is a jutting out bar that slides home into a corresponding shaft when putting the handle back together that is very close to the wires and if you are not careful it's easy to pinch them off. But take your time, be careful and it will be no problem.
Hope this helps
One of the last times someone reported something similar, it was because they still had the mouse mapped to some flight controls, and the cat had knocked the mouse (only once) after the game was started...
The problem is different on an X52. All you have to do is unplug the USB and plug it back in to re-centre. I think the cause is when you jog a connection on either the USB or the joining cable it re-centres when crooked.
Tha's one feature of the X52 that's useful for your AFK pirate harvester. You tilt the stick, unplug and plug back in off centre, then your ship stays in a permanent yaw, roll or tumble or all three to stop the pirates camping in your blind spot.
I get this occasionally. Unplugging and replugging the stick from its USB port typically fixes it for me.