X52 PRO Yaw Issues

Kapton

K
New computer, windows 11, new X52 pro problems...

All drivers installed, windows controller test program shows all buttons and axis work correctly. My bindings for HOTAS are correct in Elite Dangerous (yaw axis not buttons).

In Elite, there is a permanent 100% yaw to the left. A few days ago I had a little success swapping around USB ports, with the best case being no permanent drift BUT only binary yaw (100% left, 0%, 100% right). Which isn't much better and makes it almost impossible for me to land shots on goids. Now, however, I can't even get to that level by swapping usb's. I'm stuck with the permanent yaw.

I'm almost certain this is some software issue with the drivers and recognizing power delivery through USB. I'm tempted to buy a powered USB hub and giving that a shot. Anyone have any new ideas? I've seen like 1 other post from a few years ago and the answers where generally "just swap USB ports until it works".
 

Felix DiCestria

Felix DiCestria
Kapton said:
New computer, windows 11, new X52 pro problems...

All drivers installed, windows controller test program shows all buttons and axis work correctly. My bindings for HOTAS are correct in Elite Dangerous (yaw axis not buttons).

In Elite, there is a permanent 100% yaw to the left. A few days ago I had a little success swapping around USB ports, with the best case being no permanent drift BUT only binary yaw (100% left, 0%, 100% right). Which isn't much better and makes it almost impossible for me to land shots on goids. Now, however, I can't even get to that level by swapping usb's. I'm stuck with the permanent yaw.

I'm almost certain this is some software issue with the drivers and recognizing power delivery through USB. I'm tempted to buy a powered USB hub and giving that a shot. Anyone have any new ideas? I've seen like 1 other post from a few years ago and the answers where generally "just swap USB ports until it works".
Click to expand...
More likely the twist sensor is faulty. On the Thrustmaster you can prise open the stick to get a bit of WD40 on it. That might work with the X52. Beyond that you're looking at a replacement stick.
 

StuBaDub

StuBaDub
I don't believe the HOTAS hardware is the problem here. I've had similar behaviour as the OP, not stuck at 100% yaw but a dithering about the centre of the axis. It looks a lot like digital interference, or picking up signal from a different sensor channel. The issue arises on both of my X52 Pro controllers. It could be related to the differences between USB port types (USB 3.1 Gen 1, USB 3.1 Gen 2, etc, etc), but I suspect Oddysey is the chief culprit. These problems only occur in Odyssey and 4.0. They don't appear in Legacy or any other game I play.
I've managed to stop it by going into controller settings and cycling through the full axis ranges before the start of each game session. It's fixed my yaw issues, but nevertheless, I'll get button and toggle ghosting after a couple of hours in Oddy/4.0.
 

Jack Schitt

Jack Schitt
The X52 Pro is a flaky beast. In my experience powered hubs have not helped with the various issues because what I gained in power stability I lost in USB reliability, but many others have had more positive experiences so it might be worth a try. If you have space in the case, I've found that a separate USB card (ideally 2.x; the X52 drivers can be a bit temperamental with 3.x) with nothing plugged in except the X52 gave the most consistently good experience. It provides maximum power with the shortest / cleanest signal path.

Of all the issues I've had with my X52 over nine years, the most statistically successful fix for intermittent operations has been replacing the PS/2 cable between the stick and throttle. I've done it three times now and each time it has cleared up the current intermittency. The cable that comes with it is not great quality (nor are the sockets themselves) and replacing it with a tight fitting well manufactured lead made all the difference on mine. Might be worth a consideration, especially if you can confirm that it's a factor by giving it a waggle both ends as you test your yaw.

In the meantime I'd do as Felix has suggested and, if you're confident taking the stick apart, give the encoders a bit of a squirt with contact cleaner or similar. That you're only seeing these issues in ED is odd and might suggest it's not a hardware problem, but these sticks are so capricious that I'd want to eliminate or at least minimise the possibility of a hardware fault before I ended up chasing my tail looking for a problem elsewhere.

These sticks are just odd. No two behave in the exact same way.

Aside: after years of various problems, fixes and workarounds, mine currently functions perfectly -- on its third PS/2 cable! -- except that when the PC wakes from sleep the LEDs on the stick always light up even though they're configured for minimum brightness. The ones on the throttle behave as expected. I've tried everything; different USB port, different/reinstalled drivers, you name it. The only fix is to disable and re-enable its HID/USB entry in the Device Manager each time, but that can't be automated. So I have a macro that launches Controller Properties and presses virtual keys to turn the lights on and then off again after every sleep/wake. It's bizarre. It's like a religious ritual I have to go through to appease the controller gods every time my computer wakes. As far as I know nobody else has an X52 that does this. But I also know that if I found a more elegant fix, chances are something even worse would come along to replace it. Just one of the joys of owning an X52.
 

StuBaDub

StuBaDub
Jack Schitt said:
It's bizarre. It's like a religious ritual I have to go through to appease the controller gods every time my computer wakes. As far as I know nobody else has an X52 that does this.
Click to expand...
More bizarre than you know. My X52's on waking keep the correct light level, but reset all the stick (not throttle) buttons to green and mess with all the axis ranges. As a result my ritual is very similar to yours but with some key differences to its focus.
The current challenges with Oddy resemble ones I had in earlier (~pre 2.4) iterations of ED, when it would corrupt the registry file. After 2.4 I never had those problems again, except in CQC where they never abated.
I suspect Logitech drivers, Saitek firmware*, Microsoft OS', Elite Dangerous and USB protocols form some sort of unholy gaming pentagram.

* - Who puts firmware action triggers on button combinations for a controller?!
 

Kapton

K
Update: Powered USB hub has fixed the permanent left yaw. However, yaw is still binary (0% or 100%). It is set to an axis in the settings, and it works correctly in the test window. This is some Elite Dangerous software issue...
 

Kapton

K
Malic said:
Do you have a screenshot of your setting in game, including the expanded page showing deadzone?
Click to expand...
Screenshot 2022-12-26 112608.png
 

Kapton

K
Update: Tried a few things of note. Validating files did nothing. Unchecking Xinput did nothing. I moved my twist axis to pitch, and the problem translated to pitch instead of yaw.

So ED is reading the X52 Pro twist axis as a binary input on windows 11.


As a side note, by binding left yaw to twist left, and right yaw as twist right, I got expected digital inputs with less sensitivity (10% instead of 100%).
 
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RadiCalvo

R
Guys, you are gona love this one:

Mine "disconnects" the joystick when I push to the up-left corner (registered as neutral in game and joystick properties)

All the leds turn off, even the T switches at the base ,except for the led for the mode that keeps working like nothing is happenning at all and the power led at the base.

The "disconnect" happens about 80%-90% of the push and blinks erratically (connecting and disconnecting seems), but if I push full top-left corner it stays "disconnected"

I'm thinking in dissasemble it to see if there is a shorted wire or maybe the joysitck is pulling some cables inside creating something like a short circuit.

Tested on Windows 7-10 and 11, also USB 2.0, 3.0 and superior with no other issues (I love it)
 

Ski'Thor

Ski'Thor
I used the X56 for over a year with Windows 11 and maybe the following might also Help with the x52...
1. Use a powered USB 2 (!!!) Hub. Not 3, Just USB 2.
2. Turn down the LED Brightness to a minimum
3. There are some side effects with other Input devices. Disconnect every other Input devices except Mouse and Keyboard. I've had huge problems because of a connected Xbox Elite Controller and with my Logitech Headset. Both had to be disconnected.
4. From time to time the drivers will loose their configurations. (Thanks Logitech...) You have to use the Software to recalibrate all axes and you have to do it in a Special way: Left/Right, Up/Down, save, Go to Twist Axis, note that the curve isn't shown. Click on another curve profile, the curve will appear, Go Back to original curve, note that it is now shown, move the Joystick's Twist axis and see the indicator moving along the curve.
Now all three Axis are working.
Save, Close, try.
 
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