Community Event / Creation Yet another gaming chair build thread

This is yet another gaming chair build thread.

Hi all,
I've been playing ED since premium beta. At the outset I knew I'd need a good HOTAS and invested in a Warthog, and soon discovered the delights of VR from the community here. After investing in a DK2, I'm now fortunate enough to fly with a Vive. Throughout this time I've been using a lightly modified dining chair for both work and play. The chair has a buttkicker transducer attached to its base, and a piece of angle aluminium supports the Warthog stick to one side. The Warthog throttle rests on a simple open-sided box that was put together from a single panel of material in about 30 mins after the nice man in B&Q made the necessary cuts. It holds the amp and separate PSU for the buttkicker.

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the mark 1

All this has been great, but the chair is now showing signs of wear and to be honest it's never been perfectly comfortable as the backrest gets in the way of my elbow and the stick should really be mounted a bit further forward - I had to compromise to avoid making the chair too unstable. It's time for a change.

One of the things about VR is that you don't need huge screens, and so I started to think about creating a gaming chair that could contain just about everything in its base - the PC, amps, vive breakout box, chargers for the vive wants and of course HOTAS. While we're at it let's have a cupholder too! There is nothing on the market like this - GameCab come fairly close, but their seat is designed to be used with a giant triple screen desk and doesn't have the storage I want. So, self-build it is.

My DIY skills are going to be challenged enough on this project, and I want the seat to be something that's comfortable to use all day, every day - I work from home a lot and don't have the space for a second chair. For these reasons, I figured a car seat would be a good start rather than attempting upholstery. After a trawl of ebay, I noticed that the seats from a Mazda RX8 looked perfect - the way the headrest cutout matches the Vive logo is just too good a coincidence to miss out on. After deciding on the RX8 seats, I also found this build for converting an RX8 seat into a HOTAS chair. My approach will be somewhat in between that and the amazing CP-1.

Yesterday I aquired a pair of lovely leather RX8 seats, and I'm setting about the driver's seat for this build. The passenger seat is surplus to requirements and I'm open to offers!

My first objective is to mount the seat to a bit of scrap plywood, so that I can figure out the ergonomics that will determine the height of the base cabinet. This involves quite a bit of work - I've already removed the seatbelt clip and cut back the airbag cable. Next, I'll need to grind the brackets from the seat runners, and drill holes for my own mountings - I plan to use anti-vibration bobbins to allow the buttkicker to shake the chair without having to also shake the cabinet. I'll then need to mount the buttckicker to ensure it doesn't foul anything.

Once that's done I will figure out how high the seat base needs to be, and from that the height of the cabinet (less the castors). I already know that it will need to be 800mm wide, and between 400mm and 600mm deep. I rather fancy the idea of getting a kitchen unit from ikea and cutting the height down. This will mean I can get reliable right angles and something that will be strong enough to take the weight, and have some nice choices about front panels. The back of the cabinet will be covered by another door panel, to keep things looking nice.

There will be a fair bit of work to do inside the cabinet to add fans for PC airflow, route cables, and install the power supplies for the seat itself, buttkicker, and vive. I'll need a 4-gang in there too just to hook everything up.

After all of that, it will be time to figure out the HOTAS mounts. At the moment I've very little clue on this - much depends on the vertical distance between the top of the cabinet and the ideal mounting position.

Today I've ordered an angle grinder and cutting disks - this will be a first for me. I also wired up the seat to my van's battery using some jump leads, so that I could move the runners fully back to give the best access for grinding without risking the mechanism. While I was at it I checked the current the motors draw, and happily discovered that they only need about 2-3 amps. Given that they come off a 30A fuse, this saves me a few headaches for working out how to power it from the mains. I've ordered an 8A PSU. Coach bolts, bobbins, castors and other bits are on order too. I'll post updates as we go.
20161003_204231_HDR.jpg
upgrade time!

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RX8 Seat base, before the grinding begins. I've already cut a piece off one of the brackets with a hacksaw, but all of it must go.
 
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Not sure if these have airbags in them, just be careful with yellow sleeved wiring! and don't drop it.

8A at 12V is fine, but just make sure you fuse it on the 12V side and use the right gauge cabling (i've loads of 8AWG cabling if you need any!)

Looking forwards to this.

PS if they have a heater in the seat, maybe some clever so and so can write some software to switch on at say 80% heat :)
 
Not sure if these have airbags in them, just be careful with yellow sleeved wiring! and don't drop it.

8A at 12V is fine, but just make sure you fuse it on the 12V side and use the right gauge cabling (i've loads of 8AWG cabling if you need any!)

Looking forwards to this.

PS if they have a heater in the seat, maybe some clever so and so can write some software to switch on at say 80% heat :)

Yes - the seat has an airbag. I've already cut back and taped up the airbag cable. Removing the airbag would be tricky as it forms half of the cushion so my current plan is to leave it there. I haven't heard of an airbag deploying when fully disconnected (correct me if I'm wrong!).

I love the heater idea, but heat generation isn't a big issue when sat on a VR-capable PC.
I was planning to add a fuse holder, yes - I thought I had one from a prior project but must have chucked it. ho hum. I expect the motors will suck more current with me sat in the seat.
Between the available slack on the seat's cabling and what will come with the PSU I should be fine for wiring - thanks for the offer though :)
 
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Yes - the seat has an airbag. I've already cut back and taped up the airbag cable. Removing the airbag would be tricky as it forms half of the cushion so my current plan is to leave it there. I haven't heard of an airbag deploying when fully disconnected (correct me if I'm wrong!).

I love the heater idea, but heat generation isn't a big issue when sat on a VR-capable PC.
I was planning to add a fuse holder, yes - I thought I had one from a prior project but must have chucked it. ho hum. I expect the motors will suck more current with me sat in the seat.
Between the available slack on the seat's cabling and what will come with the PSU I should be fine for wiring - thanks for the offer though :)


No worries at all.

Out of interest what is the weight distribution like on that? Are they (pardon the pun) bottom heavy enough not to tip back when in full immersion!?
 
No worries at all.

Out of interest what is the weight distribution like on that? Are they (pardon the pun) bottom heavy enough not to tip back when in full immersion!?

I haven't weighed the seat yet but I'd guess at around 20Kg, with most of the weight in the base. The passenger seat is quite a bit lighter - no motors and narrower runners. I'm more concerned about it tipping forwards - the weight of the hotas and supporting armrests will be out the front, and when I'm working I'll lean forwards. The runners are about 400mm long, and so if I go with a 600mm deep cabinet (reducing woodwork effort and giving me plenty of storage) then I'll get some flexibility in where I site it for good weight distribution.
 
it's been like Christmas here today - rubber buffers, seat PSU, angle grinder and a few other bits and bobs all arrived.
No pics tonight but instead of eating lunch today I did angle grinding - yay! It turns out that when you spend your day job sat in front of a computer, spending an hour or so grinding metal into sparks is tremendously therapeutic. I only had one small fire too, which was nice.
Most of the grinding work is done. The seat PSU works too - I rigged it up temporarily to move the runners around as this is more convenient than using jump leads to the van.
Some careful thought and/or metal grinding will be needed to make sure the bolts for the buffers don't foul the runners, but that's for the future - bolts are still on their way.

I also think I've sussed the basic cabinet structure - two kitchen units, one inside the other should do the trick. If Ikea have the stuff in stock I might get to play at the weekend.
 
Ok, grinding and drilling the seat is done, save for mounting the buttkicker. I got to sit in it properly for the first time, and was surprised by how much the seat can move - in height as well as forwards and backwards. This means that when in 'office mode' I'll have the chair fully up and forwards, and when in 'flight mode' it will be lower and further back. This means that I can mount the HOTAS lower and further back than I was thinking, which will keep it out of the way when I'm working and reduce the size of the base cabinet. The bare metal surfaces are now covered in hammerite, and I've wired up the lumbar motor and added a fuse holder.

Photo:

20161008_164907_HDR.jpg

There's not much more I can do without a cabinet, and that's probably going to take 3 weeks or so to arrive. The cabinet will probably be 80cm wide, 60cm deep and 40cm tall, with the seat base mounted 30cm above the cabinet base. That will leave *just* enough space for the PC on its side underneath. I was hoping to mount it in a drawer but there won't be space. With 80cm of width, there will be about 30cm of space for the power gubbins and the BK amp. It's going to be tight, but it should all go.
 
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These two photos show the range of movement. The blue box lid is roughly where the shelf that supports the throttle will be. When the seat is back and down the throttle will fall nicely to hand, when it is forwards and up it will be well out of the way. It is *really* comfortable and should be a big improvement on the mark 1.
20161009_163336_HDR.jpg20161009_163412_HDR.jpg

I have a small concern with stability. The front of the tin is where the front of the cabinet will be - any further forward and it would hit my legs when the seat is fully back. The back of the cabinet will be just behind the seat when it is fully back - a total of ~600mm front to back.

When the seat is fully forwards and I sit in it and lean forwards, there is a tendency for the whole thing to tip forward. The cabinet will be much more stable than the recycling boxes I'm using in this test setup, and it will also have the weight of the PC out the back to counterbalance. I'm pretty sure at this point it will be fine, but will validate this once the cabinet arrives.

My base will be an Ikea METOD unit:
http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/products/...cabinet-frame-wood-effect-black-art-40246123/
With high gloss turquioise panels to the front and rear:
http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/products/...front-high-gloss-grey-turquoise-art-70322827/
The seat will sit on a reinforced shelf, with further shelves used to construct the sidepods for the HOTAS.

I should be able to keep exposed rough edges to a minimum, but it is inevitable that the sidepod tops will require some nice finishing. I've not finalised this aspect of the design yet, but my current favourite option is to wrap some pieces in alcantara, perhaps with a thin layer of memory foam for cushioning. The left side will be lower at the front to accommodate the throttle, the right side will contain a circular cutout for the joystick, the PC start and reset buttons, and a spot for my wireless trackball. The rear part of the sidepods will remove or hinge up to reveal some useful storage bins.

Airflow in the base will be important - so I'll fit a pair of 140mm fans (intake and exhaust). I'm hoping these will recess into the side panels to leave maximum space in the cabinet. I'll bond them in with gap filling adhesive, and add a dust filter to the intake and some nice grills to both.
 
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Quick update - my smartphone is dead so no photos, but cabinet construction is underway. There is less space under the seat than I was hoping for - nowhere near enough to fit my PC case. Integrating the PC is still possible, but it will be a future project that will probably involve hacking a cheap, slim case to take bigger fans. For now I'm focusing on creating a functional HOTAS chair. In that regard things are moving - I have a basic cabinet built that supports the seat at the right height on a reinforced shelf and will roll around my garage quite happily on its 8 castors. I also have the buttkicker installed on the chair - this required some rethinking of how the chair mounted to the cabinet as it needed more clearance. My original plan was to cut a slot in the shelf that would allow the BK to protrude into the cabinet below, but this would have weakened the structure far too much. I settled on using some connector nuts and having coach bolts protruding from the underside of the shelf.

The next jobs will be to prepare the inner set of sides for the HOTAS, then disassemble and cut down the outer sides to match. I'll also tidy up the seat and BK wiring to use an integrated connector, so that the seat is easier to remove.

So far, I've learned that my jigsaw can't cut straight even with an edge to cut against, and it will chip the laminate edge quite badly. My circular saw can cut a straight line, and seems to only rip up the laminate edge on one side. If ever you're going to buy a tool for woodworking, get a router! Fortunately, the edges I've cut so far are mostly concealed by the design.
 
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Excellent! Am a great fan of these projects and that's one smart looking pilot seat.
Good luck with it Cmdr, looking forward to seeing how it develops, and subscribed!

+100
 
I got about 10 hours in on the chair over the weekend, and things have moved on a little bit:
- the front panel has been removed, trimmed to improve the quality of finish and reattached
- seat support shelf has been reinforced with an aluminium rail
- external sides have been cut down and shaped to accept the HOTAS
- internal sides have been prepared, throttle side secured.
- joystick support platform has been prepared and secured to the outer side
- sidepod tops have been prepared - throttle side is secured, stick side temporarily secured
- a 'keyboard house' slot has been added to the stick sidepod top
- power 6 gang and buttkicker amp+PSU have been fixed into the lower cupboard
- cable access holes have been drilled through the shelf
- The seat has been shimmed upwards by an extra washer thickness, as after the reinforcement beam was added the buttkicker was gouging the shelf when moving the seat backwards and forwards.

Still to come:
- Wire in the seat properly, with a plug+socket for easy removal - then connect the BK speaker cable and install the seat PSU neatly in the base. This will involve drilling another hole in the shelf.
- Shrouding for the keyboard slot and a middle shelf will be added inside the stick sidepod. There will be storage for the two Vive wands.
- modify the throttle to have the cable exit underneath
- a USB hub will be installed, together with USB soundcard. This will mean the chair will just need USB+Power to run all of the systems (hotas, speakers, headphones, mouse, keyboard, buttkicker, and vive wand charging - I may also add a media card reader)
- The sidepod tops will be fixed in place and will be covered with double-thickness hardboard wrapped in alcantara. The stick side will include a recess for my wireless trackball and a slot for a compact bluetooth keyboard. The throttle side will have a cupholder and a recess for the buttkicker remote.
- The sidepod front panels will have cutouts to accept my speakers. Some dremelling of the speakers will be necessary to make them fit. The front panels will be made from board wrapped in alcantara
- doors will be added to the rear of the sidepods. These will be made of board wrapped in alcantara, with piano hinge and a magnetic catch.
- a rear fold-down cupboard door will be made from a high gloss turquoise panel, using piano hinge, magnetic catch and gas strut.
...and more!

I'm past the point of no return now - I've recycled the mark 1's throttle box and bolted the stick to the chair. No flying for me until it's done - good job there hasn't just been a major release recently!

Photos time. This is a top down view with the shelf off. You can see the BK amp on the left, with it's PSU behind it and the 6 gang fixed at the front of the cabinet. There's plenty of space for a PC. The two ali support rails are also visible - these came with the kitchen unit and I cut slots in the sides to accommodate them. The additional rail I added this weekend was attached to the shelf so it's not shown here.
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This is the bottom of the seat - the old brackets have all been ground off, and the BK is clearly visible.
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This shows the intended layout - the roll of tape is in place of the cupholder, which is yet to arrive.
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This is how it looks now. The keyboard slot can be seen on the right, together with a shelf that I'm part way through making - it will need cutting to avoid fouling the keyboard slot. More fabrication will be needed to properly shroud the slot so that the keyboard doesn't become lost in the void.
The throttle and stick are both very solid and the positioning is great. It will be worth the effort and the wait.
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I'm hoping for a big weekend on the chair which might see it ready for a flight test on Sunday - woo!
Photos and full build log are now over here: https://goo.gl/photos/ENbocpJBCVXGW9bd7

I've got almost enough stuff now to finish the build - but my cupholder still hasn't arrived. It's stuck on a slow boat from China and might take another couple of weeks. Without that I can't finish the woodcutting on the throttle side.
 
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