Competition is definitely a good thing, and most other things being equal, I'll favor the underdog's products.
Nepotism and unjustly inherited merit should be discouraged, but I'm only willing to go so far to personally subsidize corporate affirmative action. I'll support policies to increase competitiveness, but ultimately, I buy the right tool for the right job and try to spend as little as I can to meet my goals.
true, and as you explained my last build was over priced and I could have upgraded many times for the same cost, so not going to do that again, 8000 series CPU from AMD same with the GPU can run on the AM5 MOBO if I understood it right, so that's my aim, cpu/gpu can always be sold or reused in other projects if needed.
Yeah, current AM5 boards should support the 8000 series without issue.
Just don't spend too much on the board either; the arbitrary market segmentation here is getting insane. This goes for the whole motherboard industry in general, but is even more apparent on the AMD side, where none of their CPUs need a wild VRM to support their peak power consumption and where the flagship chipset is just another non-flagship chipset daisy chained to the first Promontory 21 part.
So, unless you need a bunch of I/O that is difficult to properly leverage, B650 is the chipset to get. A620 isn't much cheaper and mandates disabling far too many tuning features (artificial product segmentation), while X670 is senseless for most use cases. Likewise, most B650 boards, even in expensive ones, have the power delivery to handle any CPU you can install:
Of those 35 boards, only the ASUS Primes and the heavily cost cut Gigabyte B650M K had unacceptably high VRM temperatures when stressing the most power hungry AM5 CPU. Everything else ranges from entirely competent to total overkill, as far as VRM goes.
You can also save a bit by going with an mATX board, even if you have room for a full size board. Normally, the only thing you lose out on are a few slow expansion slots hanging off the chipset that will probably be blocked by the GPU anyway. North of that the boards are usually functionally identical.
For those wanting to jump on the AM5 platform while spending as little as possible, which affordable AMD B650 motherboards are the best? We'll be torture-testing eleven...
www.techspot.com
If you want to spend a little more than the cost of the ASRock budget board I recommended earlier so you don't have to add your own wifi card, I'd probably recommend the Gigabyte B650M Aorus Elite AX for most people as Gigabyte tends to have the best POST times and the best performance without extensive manual tweaking. As can be seen from the review above, Gigabyte provides a couple of quick settings to tighten up certain memory timings (which almost any Hynix based memory should handle with ease) that makes a meaningful difference in memory performance. Of course, that advantage disappears with full manual tuning, but most people aren't capable or inclined here.
The Riptide is also fine, but defaults to an unusually low temperature limit as well as less optimal memory timings, so needs some more tweaking to reach parity.
On a side note, don't consider two DIMM slots to be a disadvantage over four. The second DIMM per channel pair is mostly token, at least for anyone who doesn't need more than 96GiB of system memory. Two DIMMs is easier on the memory controller while omitting the extra two slots entirely allows the remaining ones to have more optimized trace routing or get away with fewer PCB layers without much side effect.
Yeah, but I'm angry my wife has been nagging me for along time to install filters in case of lightning, and I always said We will be fine, everything is grounded
The ground connection is there to keep
you from getting electrocuted. Sensitive electronics still need surge suppressors, and not just to protect from lightning, but even cumulative wear from much less energetic surges that occur due to other loads on the circuit or the vagaries of power transmission.
When you are spiked, it's time for a completely new box.
Well, at least time to pull everything apart and test pieces individually to see what was damaged. Some things are more sensitive than others, and somethings are more isolated from the PSU. But doing so is a lot of work and everything has to be suspect until it thoroughly demonstrates otherwise.