Account transfer?

Slawkenbergius

Slawkenbergius
Steve50 said:
as for my PC, some people asked the problem, well it was fine and I seemed to have no problems at all, I shut down for the night and went to bed, when I came to power on the PC in the morning its dead, nothing at all. I spent the best part of 4-5 days messing with it, I tried another PSU, I tried pulling the GPU out, I tried swapping ram, I tried another HD. nothing worked. I suspect the motherboard is dead. but who knows.
Click to expand...

Did you make sure the power was turned on at the socket?

And why not take Dryza's offer? As a serial upgrader, I've quite often found myself in the situation where I'm happy to offload a PC... I'm sure he wouldn't offer if it wasn't something he wanted to do.
 

Variform

Variform
Do other appliances work on that wall socket?

It seems you tried pretty much everything to fix it. All I can think of, and I am not electrician, is that the PSU died and damaged your main board. If the PSU is alright, then you main board needs replacement.

I got nothing like that lying around at the moment.
 

thor-god-of-thunder

thor-god-of-thunder
dead motherboard

hi steve.... before my illness 6 years ago I was MD of my own computer company and spent many hours in the service bay ....

I don't know what type of motherboard you have so the following is my best advice

you will need :-

a good power supply of the right specs
A good external plug in video card
motherboard handbook
a good known working hard drive

take everything out of the case and place on a table free from any metal... REMOVE any spacers from the MB it needs to be free of anything...

does the power supply work if NOT plugged into the MB ? if not hence a known good one is needed...

DO NOT attach anything other than the power supply and a known working video card to the MB

power up .... does it come to life i.e the power supply works and the video works ???? if not

look in the handbook for the cmos reset jumper ( if no handbook use a friends pc and get this online or in some cases this info is etched on the MB )

reset cmos settings power up ( the video wont work yet ) .. power down ... reset comos back ... power up ... does this work ???

if not then your MB has blown ( sorry ) .... however if yes ....

power down take video card off and plug into the original video... power up if this still works....

plug the Hard drive onto the MB ... power up ... if this does not work then this MB I/O bus has died ... plug the HD onto the other I/O bus and power up ... if this does not work ....

plug on a known good hard drive and I/O cable and repeat .. if still not working then the I/O can be replaced with a plug in I/O card not expensive ....

if at this stage you have a working " system " add other components one at a time doing so will / not identify the problem.

assuming you have a working system .... put back the plastic M/B spacers and place back in the case ( DO NOT screw it down yet ) and power up .... it still works power down screw the M/B down ... power up ... if it does not work use leather washers to isolate screw points both under and on top of the screw points this should cure the shorting .... now assemble back all working components one at a time again until rebuilt ....

if you live anywhere near Colne Lancs I will do this for you...

good luck... hope this is of some help
 

Steve50

Steve50
Variform said:
Do other appliances work on that wall socket?

It seems you tried pretty much everything to fix it. All I can think of, and I am not electrician, is that the PSU died and damaged your main board. If the PSU is alright, then you main board needs replacement.

I got nothing like that lying around at the moment.
Click to expand...

Yes they do and obviously I tried the PC in other sockets :p
 

Steve50

Steve50
thor-god-of-thunder said:
hi steve.... before my illness 6 years ago I was MD of my own computer company and spent many hours in the service bay ....

I don't know what type of motherboard you have so the following is my best advice

you will need :-

a good power supply of the right specs
A good external plug in video card
motherboard handbook
a good known working hard drive

take everything out of the case and place on a table free from any metal... REMOVE any spacers from the MB it needs to be free of anything...

does the power supply work if NOT plugged into the MB ? if not hence a known good one is needed...

DO NOT attach anything other than the power supply and a known working video card to the MB

power up .... does it come to life i.e the power supply works and the video works ???? if not

look in the handbook for the cmos reset jumper ( if no handbook use a friends pc and get this online or in some cases this info is etched on the MB )

reset cmos settings power up ( the video wont work yet ) .. power down ... reset comos back ... power up ... does this work ???

if not then your MB has blown ( sorry ) .... however if yes ....

power down take video card off and plug into the original video... power up if this still works....

plug the Hard drive onto the MB ... power up ... if this does not work then this MB I/O bus has died ... plug the HD onto the other I/O bus and power up ... if this does not work ....

plug on a known good hard drive and I/O cable and repeat .. if still not working then the I/O can be replaced with a plug in I/O card not expensive ....

if at this stage you have a working " system " add other components one at a time doing so will / not identify the problem.

assuming you have a working system .... put back the plastic M/B spacers and place back in the case ( DO NOT screw it down yet ) and power up .... it still works power down screw the M/B down ... power up ... if it does not work use leather washers to isolate screw points both under and on top of the screw points this should cure the shorting .... now assemble back all working components one at a time again until rebuilt ....

if you live anywhere near Colne Lancs I will do this for you...

good luck... hope this is of some help
Click to expand...

Hi, thanks for the help. its much appreciated!

okay, I tried what you said. (my gaming room now looks like a scrapyard with bits all over the place. haha)

The mobo is a Gigabyte one. I spent over an hour this afternoon following your instructions to the letter, I went slow and double checked everything.

I guess we can confirm a dead motherboard. Tried my PC's psu, my spare psu and even borrowed one off my brother in law. no response from the mobo with any. Yes, I reset the CMOS according to the manual.

again, thank you for the help! I think we know the problem now
 

Aewarin Jameson

Aewarin Jameson
Steve50 said:
I guess we can confirm a dead motherboard. Tried my PC's psu, my spare psu and even borrowed one off my brother in law. no response from the mobo with any. Yes, I reset the CMOS according to the manual.
Click to expand...

If your hardware is compatible with your brother-in-laws system try your parts in his 1 at a time to see that they are OK .. would be a real bummer if a couple of your pieces failed at the same time but you didn't know.
 

schmerg

schmerg
Steve50 said:
Hi, thanks for the help. its much appreciated!

okay, I tried what you said. (my gaming room now looks like a scrapyard with bits all over the place. haha)

The mobo is a Gigabyte one. I spent over an hour this afternoon following your instructions to the letter, I went slow and double checked everything.
again, thank you for the help! I think we know the problem now
Click to expand...

If you post the spec of the rest of the system (ie m/board size: ATX or uATX, the CPU model and RAM spec), you might get an offer of a replacement m/board from someone.

I know I keep old hardware lying around after an upgrade ("just in case" - looking at a stack of at least 12 hard drives on shelves etc) and it's not unheard of me to have 1 or 2 m/boards and CPUs in drawers - barely worth ebay-ing them, but I'd happily give them away as spares rather than chuck them in the bin or leave them gathering dust.

So I have an AMD 5050e CPU (AM2, only dual core, 2.6GHz but better than nothing) that anyone is welcome to should they need it (great for HTPCs as it's only 45w TDP).
And I may well have an AM2+ uATX m/board and 8Gb of DDR2 RAM to fit going spare in a couple of months :)

There's no shame in asking if anyone is about to chuck out an old m/board of a certain spec...
 

Steve50

Steve50
schmerg said:
If you post the spec of the rest of the system (ie m/board size: ATX or uATX, the CPU model and RAM spec), you might get an offer of a replacement m/board from someone.

I know I keep old hardware lying around after an upgrade ("just in case" - looking at a stack of at least 12 hard drives on shelves etc) and it's not unheard of me to have 1 or 2 m/boards and CPUs in drawers - barely worth ebay-ing them, but I'd happily give them away as spares rather than chuck them in the bin or leave them gathering dust.

So I have an AMD 5050e CPU (AM2, only dual core, 2.6GHz but better than nothing) that anyone is welcome to should they need it (great for HTPCs as it's only 45w TDP).
And I may well have an AM2+ uATX m/board and 8Gb of DDR2 RAM to fit going spare in a couple of months :)

There's no shame in asking if anyone is about to chuck out an old m/board of a certain spec...
Click to expand...

Athlon II X4 620 Quad Core 2.6ghz cpu
8gb DDR 3 Ram
500gb SATA HD
Asus GTX 650 1gb GPU
IDE DVD-RW
Trust 540 Watt PSU
 

schmerg

schmerg
Steve50 said:
Athlon II X4 620 Quad Core 2.6ghz cpu
8gb DDR 3 Ram
500gb SATA HD
Asus GTX 650 1gb GPU
IDE DVD-RW
Trust 540 Watt PSU
Click to expand...

OK, so we've got an AMD system with a suspected fried m/board.

The CPU is AM3 (meaning it'll typically fit an AM2+ or AM3 or AM3+ m/board but check the spec per board), but you have DDR3 RAM, so I think that means you're looking at an AM3/AM3+ board (AM2 and AM2+ were DDR2 only, AM3 and up are DDR3 only).

The PSU, GPU, SATA HD should be no issue with most anything, and many but not all AM3 boards keep at least one IDE connector for optical drives.

You don't say if the RAM you have is 4 DIMMs of 2Gb each or 2x 4Gb (or even 1x8Gb) so I'll assume 4x2Gb, meaning you'll need a mboard with at least 4 DIMM slots.

It's a nice low wattage CPU (45W TDP) so probably runs a very small heatsink but doesn't make any high wattage demands of a m/board.
The case, will it fit an ATX or just a uATX (uATX is physically smaller) board?
No point in someone volunteering an ATX board if it won't fit in your case :)
I'm guessing from the "cool-running" CPU that it's a small case so would suspect uATX.

And no mention of other cards, so I guess it won't matter how many PCI-E 2 x16 or better slots there are, you just want the one free high speed slot for the GPU card.

And given your posts about swapping bits and pieces over to test the PSU etc, I take it you'd be happy to try swapping the mboard yourself (remove and fit, reseating the CPU and heatsink and RAM, swapping connectors etc).

Given this is Windows world, you'll probably fall foul of Microsoft's anti-piracy checks on a m/board swap, but if so you just have to ring them on the telephone number that shows up and tell them, absolutely honestly, that the m/board died and you've replaced it and no, this isn't a 2nd machine running the same copy of Windows but the same machine with a m/board swap.

So, according to my tired old brain, the question is has anyone got a uATX (to be safe) AM3/AM3+ m/board with both IDE and SATA, and 2 or 4 DIMM DDR3 slots lying around spare?

Something perhaps like
http://www.tekheads.co.uk/product/A...-AM3-IDESATA-Micro-ATX-Motherboard_43812.html

(Dunno how good a board that is but it came up pretty quick on a search for something with the right sort of spec).

I'll ask around a few geek mates ... see if anything comes up...

--
T
 

schmerg

schmerg
Steve50 said:
Athlon II X4 620 Quad Core 2.6ghz cpu
8gb DDR 3 Ram
500gb SATA HD
Asus GTX 650 1gb GPU
IDE DVD-RW
Trust 540 Watt PSU
Click to expand...

Forgot to say, if you do have the model number of the old m/board, you never know, you might get ultra-lucky and find a like-for-like swap...

Is it a "standard build" PC (the Trust PSU etc implies so) or a "big supplier named box" such as Dell or HP or similar? Dell used to be ******s and use non-standard combinations of mboard sizes and PSU connectors etc although that was many years ago... like when Compaq had their own build of DOS and used different drive rails etc just to make sure you only ever upgraded a machine with them, not with 3rd parties...

--
T
 
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