Hardware & Technical Saitek x55 rhino

Holy ghosting, batman!

I had an awful time at first. Cargo Scoop, Hardpoints, Silent Running, Supercruise, Landing Gear, I had the worst time with controls going haywaire. It almost got me killed a few times.

Fine tuning the controls and calibrating helped, so did the powered USB hub. The problems are mostly gone now, but still I get an occational ghost button press.

The next thing I'm trying is turning OFF the LED Lights in the software, so maybe it will draw less current?

Faling that I will need to try a powered USB 3 hub.
 
Hi aussiedroid. Thanks for the reply, but I've never mapped a key in x55 software before, also how do I put your profile for the x55 in my x55 software. Sorry I'm new to pc,s. Is there any other profiles in a picture so I can try to map. I've opened your picture of your profile but I don't know how to map using one joystick button to do two things. But many thanks any way.

Sorry was a little late getting back to you. Glad to hear it is all sorted now :)
 
All the ghost presses encountered when I had the issue all seemed to be related to the throttle controls. As high lighted in my original post on the matter I installed my motherboard vendor drivers for USB3 and disabled legacy USB in the bios. Both these solved the issue for me but not for everyone.

There's still no rhyme or reason why it effects some and not others and also why some fixes work for some but others have to go that extra mile to get a playable set up.
 
I thought I had the ghosting under control with a powered USB hub, but a couple of days ago it came back with a vengeance. Lights turning off and on, thrusters firing randomly, landing gear deploying itself in the middle of combat (fun!). The last straw came this evening when I was taking my brand new clipper in for its first landing and the throttle decided this would be an awesome time to test the boost function. Pancaked my brand new ship against the back of the station, 1.5M rebuy. Thank heaven it wasn't the python, that would have really stung. I'm throwing this flakey piece of garbage where it belongs and buying myself a thrustmaster.
 
I think the throttle may be the only device that needs the additional power. Might be worth only plugging that in to the hub and the stick direct to the pc USB port.

Not really much else to say on the matter.
 
This happened to me with Silent running/Cargo Scoop and Lights just turning on/off whenever they felt like it, unplugging the throttle then plugging it in worked ( as long as the game wasn't running) not long after though the F G H and I buttons failed so I had a replacement and all is well, maybe you have a faulty throttle.
 
How to get the X55 Rhino nailed like a boss to your desk

So after many months of notso ideal slippage of the Rhino X55 on my desk, even with none slip mats, I decided to take the plunge and get it proper bolted to my desk. If your looking at doing this, and you are as equally bad at DIY as me then here is a little guide.

You will need (sourced in the UK from Wickes):

A drill!
A 6mm Wood Drill Bit
Long Screwdriver and Hammer / Very long and thin pencil / pen.
8x M6x75mm (or your own equivalent - see below) Coach Bolt
8x M6 Dome Nuts

Before buying the above, measure the distance from the top of the X55 to about a cm or so below the desk. This is the length of the M6 Coach Bolt you will need to buy from Wickes.

Measure.jpg

Mine was 75mm, yours may differ depending on thickness of desk.

* Place the throttle and joystick where you want them placed and either mark through the holes with a very long pencil, or if one isn't available, get a Philips screwdriver in the center of each hole and hammer on it a couple of times to make a clear X mark on the desk.

* Drill with a 6mm wood drill bit straight down on each X / pencil mark.

* Each M6 Coach Bolt should drop down through the throttle / joystick and the hole you have just made

* Use the washer, and then a M6 Dome Nut to lock it in place, while keeping a rounded finish so you wont hurt yourself if your knee scrapes it!

Finito! Easy as pie, even for DIY noobs like me.

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Nice work!

I've used some non-slip matting under mine which works a treat on my setup. Little less permanent for me, but I am sure this will help others.
 
Yeah I tried the none slip mats for quite a while, and they worked up to a point, but the times they didn't it got too annoying for me.

I would have gone the chair attachment route, but for my chair not having suitable arms.

My post is probably facepalming simple for most, but I made a few errors in sourcing the exact right parts from Wickes a few times, so thought I would at least try and save others some hassle.
 
Nice work!

I've used some non-slip matting under mine which works a treat on my setup. Little less permanent for me, but I am sure this will help others.

Is there a specific brand you use that you've found is better than others? I have a laminated counter for my computer nook and the damn things slip around like nobody's business. I wish they were a bit more weighted. :\
 
It looks really solid man, good on ya.
My friend did the same, probably because he plays with a OR and gets a little too excited boosting into the mailslot I think. :)
 
Corsair keyboard is perfect for having a joystick, nice tight profile takes up so little real-estate on the desk; enough so as to allow keeping the hotas on the desk. When I had my old old G15 I had to pack away the joystick just to be able to enjoy a beverage.
 
x55 Rhino stick lost X and Y axis after "Calibrate Axes"

I hope someone here can help me out because I'm lost.

On my 2 days old, and in all other ways perfectly working, Saitek X55 Pro Rhino I decided to to a "Calibrate Axes" on the stick using the H.U.D. software. There were some deadzone issues that I hoped should get better by doing it.

What I surprise I got when both X and Y axis were gone after doing it. No response at all. All buttons and rudder still works on the stick and everything is fine with the throttle.
And it's not just in ED, the axes are gone everywhere.

I tried a lot of stuff to get it working without success...
  • Redo the calibration using H.U.D
  • Calibrate using the tool that is supplied with Windows
  • Reinstall drivers
  • Try another computer, with only drivers at first.
  • Try older version of drivers (on the alternate compute)
  • Calibrate with stick only connected
  • Powered USB hub
  • Another USB Hub
  • Different ports on the computer(s)
...are the things so far.

I only have Windows 7 x64 computers so there should not be any Win 8.1 issues.
I'm still waiting for a response from Saitek.
If anyone here could give me a hint on how to solve the issues I would be more than happy, otherwise I will have to return it.

Thanks in adv.
//Peter
 
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I have the stick, but have never bothered to use the software.

Try using just the driver and uninstalling the other HUD software junk to see if it's poor software or an actual hardware issue.

The joystick itself works fine for me on two different Windows 8.1 machines without the software installed.
 
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It's not the HUD software since I tried using just the drivers on the alternate computer but still no axes.
Then I installed the HUD, after.
And it was working fine with the HUD software up until I did "Calibrate Axes".
From what I can tell, the HUD uploads setting to the stick and something must have gone bad there.
The process of calibrating takes about 10 seconds and when it was done the axes was gone.

I was hoping there might be some way of, for the lack of a better work, "re flash" the firmware of the stick but I haven't found any.
 
Have you accidentally unassigned it ?

I had this issue with the throttle while remapping the buttons on it, i must have moved it enough to register and it unmapped the throttle control from it.
 
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