There old and you can get them off ebay, ive used many sticks in the past because im a flight sim hog but to me its the best stick out there. Also highly regarded amongst the flight sim community. Go post on SIM HQ, ROF, Benchmark Sims or team fusion and you will get the same reply as ive give.
Hardware & Technical CH Pro Throttle
- Thread starter NeilF
- Start date
There old and you can get them off ebay, ive used many sticks in the past because im a flight sim hog but to me its the best stick out there. Also highly regarded amongst the flight sim community. Go post on SIM HQ, ROF, Benchmark Sims or team fusion and you will get the same reply as ive give.
I got a used CH Pro Throttle on the way to add to my CH Fighterstick...
I really appreciate your help. I've set up my controls in Custom.binds according to this and they work now. I dropped a shortcut to CMStart in my Startup folder and do not have to manually run CM each time I fire up ED. Whew! Only thing that concerns me is that I made a copy of Custom.binds and renamed the copy -- but that renamed version doesn't show up in the drop down list under Controls. I've never had a problem with doing this before running CM. If you or anyone understands this, I'd appreciate an explanation and advice. I like to rename because Custom.binds can get changed if you forget to plug in your controllers prior to starting the game.
Here's a link to a helpful tutorial of CH Control Manager: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gm7JlkOBFrs
I believe there are five vids in his series. I learned enough from these to get me through.
Hopefully your's won't be faulty like mine
Should be a nice combo
Got it today, after a complete teardown and cleaning everything checked out fine... Have you opened yours up, might be a loose connection to the pot, or maybe a bad pot... But the nice thing about CH Products is you can get replacement parts... Not a difficult tear down... There is even a guide on the CH Hangar...
Just for the record, my CH throttle runs flawlessly on each boot up without having to run the CH software. There has been one instance of the throttle calibration getting a tad out of whack, but a quick recalibration with the software fixed it, and it has been perfect since.
My only dilemma now is what to replace my T16000M with. A smuch as I like it, I find the button placement annoying, I have too much stuff bound to the throttle, and too much of the stuck is bound with "shift" buttons, making it too easy to screw up in the heat of combat.
Shame the CH folk don't make a fighter stick with a twist. I'd be all over it...
Z...
My only dilemma now is what to replace my T16000M with. A smuch as I like it, I find the button placement annoying, I have too much stuff bound to the throttle, and too much of the stuck is bound with "shift" buttons, making it too easy to screw up in the heat of combat.
Shame the CH folk don't make a fighter stick with a twist. I'd be all over it...
Z...
I'd even go for a Warthog if it had a twist axis. Until such a joystick is available, I'll stay with my trusty, 20 year old, Microsoft Sidewinder 3D Pro Plus.
I didn't want to open it and risk the warranty, so it's already gone back, and a new one should be with me later this week.
Besides, I couldn't even see how to open it. Are the screws under the rubber feat?
Is it worth opening it to silicon grease it etc?
I have the throttle (bought the "Mac" version cheap from Amazon hahaha), and a Leo Bodnar adapted fighterstick (it was originally an Apple ADB interface). I keep all targeting, shooting, power management and weapon selection on the joystick.
All "admin" functions (menu scrolling, super cruise, boosting, thrusters) are on the throttle.
All "admin" functions (menu scrolling, super cruise, boosting, thrusters) are on the throttle.
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If you have a warranty, thats the way to go... But yes, just lift up the feet carefully so you can put them back on.
Don't know about greasing, mine didn't need that. I did add the fuzzy side of some velcro stips to add a bit more resistance.
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That is pretty much how I mapped my controls.
One interesting thing I have found is I set the mini thumb stick to the head look axis and the center push toggle head look. I could then assign the stick to yaw (axis) and pitch (up/down input since I have pitch axis on the fighterstick). Yaw works just fine this way, as does pitch down. But pitch up also moves the head up (even though head look is disabled )... Thought was to use the pitch on the mini stick to make fine corrections during docking.
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Did you just put some velco fuzz down one whole side of the slide? You don't need to open it up for that surely?
I did that in the shape of just a couple of mm for a middle detent effect. Seemed to feel OK. Obviously couldn't actually test it as it was busted so will try on the replacement
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I did... There are two plates that normally have a 2-3mm gap between them. The top plate you can see around the shaft of the throttle handle. The other is below it and what holds that sliding plate in place.Did you just put some velco fuzz down one whole side of the slide? You don't need to open it up for that surely?
I did that in the shape of just a couple of mm for a middle detent effect. Seemed to feel OK. Obviously couldn't actually test it as it was busted so will try on the replacement
When you open it up you can remove the lower plate. I put the fuzzy side of a velco stip on the underside of the upper plate. I put a ~25mm wide x ~70mm long strip along each side of the shaft opening. It basically fills that gap.
When you re assemble, you can't see the strips. I didn't do anything to define a center dimple, I have the trottle set to toggle rev to provide the full range of motion to forward thrusters. I can post some pictures tonight if that helps explain it.
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And this improves the tracking of the throttle how? Just by adding a tiny bit more resistance? I assume the plate is easy to remove? Do you add a big long length of fuzz, or just a patch to add the resistance?
For a center=zero, if you want to try it, just try adding a 3-4mm square of that fuzz on the inside the runner ontop of the unit, so the handle makes contact with it as it goes by. It's just enough to possibly add a nice little detent effect. Give it a go!
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I doesn't... But it does take a little more force to push/pull the throttle. Less of a chance for unintended movement.
OK, my second unit works fine, but there is a slight "groan" around the 3/4 mark when sliding the throttle slowly. It's not bad, but annoying. Is it likely this sound will simply go of its own accord being a new unit? Or is there a simple/easy/safe way to lubricate it with some silicon grease?
ie: If I open the bottom up, can I easy get to the regions/areas that are likely to be responsible for this "sound"?
If there's any risk that opening it up could make things worse, I'll simply live with it!
ie: If I open the bottom up, can I easy get to the regions/areas that are likely to be responsible for this "sound"?
If there's any risk that opening it up could make things worse, I'll simply live with it!
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Mine was quite stiff when i first got it, pretty sure its got easier with use, but it might just be me getting used to it. It helps if its firmly mounted to something though (i have mine G-Clamped on a VESA mount attached to my chair).
Love the CH stuff and the software is awesome. Best thing I like about it is you can make a map up for any game/sim using the its default settings as your template and you can then re-install/delete as much as you want and all you gotta do to make the game work is load the map. Especially useful in ED if you spark the game up without your controllers plugged in, you lose all your settings and have to put em back in again )p[ain) not with a map just start the map in CH manager and viola !