Do you have the picture? I'm curious now.
DIY Head Tracker For A Tenner
- Thread starter Dead Fred
- Start date
Do you have the picture? I'm curious now.
http://forums.frontier.co.uk/showpost.php?p=401124&postcount=512
His case is the same height as yours basically, but you can see the button is well below the cover height.
Must be down to what brumster suggests... Yours is simply better endowed!
If you know anyone with access to a 3D Printer you can print one of these:
http://www.bld3r.com/tag/EDTracker
http://reprapdad.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/edtracker.jpg
I took a few to Lavecon to show off and they got snapped up!
I used something called amazing tape, it's reusable and is made out of the same material as the car tax disc holders that stick on your windscreen.
Its like a stretchy clingy cellophane material that sticks to it's self so you can wrap it around.
For some reason EDTracker isn't compatible with the Opentrack joystick plugin even though every other stick and gamepad I have works.
I did get it to work with opentrack to get 3dof though. Using a tool called Joystick Curves (for creating spline curves for deadzones and nonlinearity in flight sims). It creates a vjoy device and the opentrack joystick plugin is compatible with it.
It's still a little fiddly, For some reason the axis settings are not normal like other sticks.
JCurves EDtracker Throttle to vjoy Roll
JCurves EDTracker Pitch to vjoy Pitch
JCurves EDTracker Roll to vjoy Yaw
Then in Opentrack
Vjoy Device Yaw Axis#3
Vjoy Device Pitch Axis#5
Vjoy Device Roll Axis#4
You have to center both the Edtracker and opentrack simultaniously and possibly your game center head key too.
I tested in Edtracker and War Thunder. 3DOF works.
I also wrote to the opentrack developers, and one of them is very busy but is planning to write something that will take the raw data and work directly since there is source code it should be easy.
But since he is busy there is no ETA.
BTW you don't really need 6DOF in ED. I tried it when I was using opentrack with a IR Clip. ED doesn't really support x,y,z transforms well, the head is mostly fixed and moves a couple of inches. Not like War thunder where you can move your head till your face slides down the canopy in WW2 fighters lol, And you can look over and down the side of your plane.
A few inches in ED with the sudden halt with very little movement just breaks immersion since it is quite jarring and doesn't make sense visually with such small travel and so much space around your character.
Just like the Oculus Rift ;-)
I'm waiting on the STEM which should solve all the problems.
I can't afford to use headphones because of the wife,family, dogs etc. Have to keep an ear out for any problems. But the velcro strap is wide enough to hide the electronics while leaving the button easy to reach. I actually used an O-ring on each side to hold it in place and the velcro for security.
Pic in spoiler
I used epoxy on the USB socket to help hold it in place in case there is any jarring. Almost all epoxy is non conductive once dry and does a great job of securing the part. I have one of those flat rubberised noodle type cables which is pretty thin so you hardly feel it's there.
The velcro strap is long enough to wrap around most large headphones too.
If your going to try and glue the thing. Epoxy or liguid tape should do the trick.
Pic in spoiler
I used epoxy on the USB socket to help hold it in place in case there is any jarring. Almost all epoxy is non conductive once dry and does a great job of securing the part. I have one of those flat rubberised noodle type cables which is pretty thin so you hardly feel it's there.
The velcro strap is long enough to wrap around most large headphones too.
If your going to try and glue the thing. Epoxy or liguid tape should do the trick.
If you're totally against cutting a small corner of the board then yes but as I said you could just cut the screw post in the box. Then glue the cover on. The box is in my mind the right size bar the posts so wasn't worried about a bit of DIY on the PCB.
The area you need to remove is only 4mm x 4mm on that corner, which you could cut out as a square with a junior hacksaw if you wanted to.
When I went looking the only sizes they had in stock small enough were the N78BQ (50x35x17) or the N80BQ (80x40x17)
As a small side note I now only cut the one side of the PCB board. The side where the logo thats had to be removed for copyright reasons was. It wont affect the working of the board as any copper on that part isn't part of the circuit
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This is mine, the case is the same Maplins one just in black.....
That looks similar to OmegaHunter's? - http://forums.frontier.co.uk/showpost.php?p=401124&postcount=512
What part number is your's from Maplin? n78bq (5cm)? n79bq (6cm)?
How nicely does your EDTracker fit in that box? Did you have to chop bits off the box/ED Tracker?
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Ahh - I couldn't see the 5cm box in black before, but there it is! - http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/hammond-m...se-abs-box-1551-series-black-50x35x17mm-n78bq
How easy is it to cut the PCB then to make it fit? I don't have a dremel or anthing, just small saws/craft knives.
Easy just added it to the previous post.
All I was using were basic tools ie a craft knife, small files, and drill bits. Got a hole bradle but the job it done could be done with a drill bit and something to hold them ( I used a small hand vice that I made in school metal work many many years ago).
They sell the cases in black and grey. Bought two of each and only showed the grey one because it was the first one I made as its easier to mark out lines on the lighter grey than a black box.
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