Hardware & Technical Thrustmaster T.16000M FCS HOTAS official thread

VerticalBlank

VerticalBlank
If anyone is experiencing stutter in the joystick trigger, as in a single trigger pull causing multiple taps (easily seen in joy.cpl), then this stuff fixes it by cleaning the electrical contact of dirt and oxides.

http://amzn.eu/d6r8Tyy

No need to disassemble, just unplug the joystick from USB as a precaution, then hold it upside-down over some kitchen towel, and use the red straw to squirt a little under the orange trigger into seating of the button that it actuates. Work it a bit and dry off with the kitchen towel.

Worked like a charm for me.
 

Spaceman Si

Spaceman Si
I've only just found this thread!

Being a bit new to the Thrustmaster 16000M FCS HOTAS, I've a couple of things that are puzzling me - apologies if this is old ground, I've had a look through the thread but can't find an answer to these things:

1: How to you add a "modifier", so that a button can do more than one thing? I've seen this referenced a lot, but not sure how to actually make it happen.

2: With the default bind settings*, the throttle mini-stick does both the Headlook and Vertical / Lateral thrusters. I often look around whilst thrusting, so is there a way of moving the thruster controls somewhere else (I assume so!)? And if you have done this yourself, what has worked best for you?

3: This is probably really stupid, but... How do you make the galmap move on the vertical axis? I can rotate it, move it in either the x or y planes, but not z. I've looked in the bindings file, but I'm not able to work out which control does this!


Thank you in advance :)


* Just as an observation, getting one of these as a complete newbie is quite overwhelming... There seems to be zero documentation on the default controls, and the in-game control list doesn't make it obvious whether "Joy1" is the first button on the Throttle or the Stick. Or indeed, what button "Joy1" is at all.
 

TorTorden_VR

T
If we are considering elite dangerous directly.
A modifier button is simply added by pressing two buttons at the same time when setting up keybindings.

I do not have a 16000m but on my setup I have a four way hat set for:
Target ahead, or in my case target what I look at, as well as cycle nexg ans previius nearest threat.

Using the same hat and pushing one of my modifier buttons. I get cycle next and previous hostile, direct module targeting, next and previous.
With a second modifier I have wingman selection.
So direct select for wingman 1-3 and select wingman target.

Using two buttons as modifiers I then get every hat on my setup to work as three hats, or have 12 different functions.

For other games this too should be possible but some seem to want to only want to use keyboard buttons as modifiers, which is somewhat useless.
But you should able to use software to then emulate the buttons.

But I'm this isn't needed for ED.

As for binding.
Take your time. Learn what functions you need in what situation.
And I don't even think about what buttons is number 5 or 16.
I think of physical position and hand access. And where would I want function x to be when my canopy is blown and my pants are on fire.
 

VerticalBlank

VerticalBlank
Yeah, I’m not a huge fan of the default bindings. Too much reliance on the buttons at the base of the stick, and some cases of adjacent functions where you really don’t want to hit the wrong one in the heat of combat.

Have a look at EDRefCard. There are quite a few bindings there, including my own. Ultimately the best bindings scheme is one you devise yourself, but this should give you some ideas.

To set a modifier in game, click the setting in question and then press both buttons together. Hope this helps.
 

TorTorden_VR

T
Not sure if this is a welcome comment or not since I'm not an owner.
But meh it's the internet.

I have personally just bought a thrustmaster warthog throttle.
And it is a glorious piece of kit, no doubt about that.
Haven't had a device with more tactile feel to the buttons etc and doing anything means you really want to.

BUT.
For elite I cannot fathom this being anywhere near good.
It's far too heavy, the buttons and hats work in ways not well utilised by the game at all.

For elite I honestly have a very hard time finding anything better for Elite or space combat games than the TWCS throttle.
Even if you quadrupled the budget.

I really don't think you can get better for Elite for the money than the 16000m HOTAS.

I bought it for getting into DCS though where you really benefit from the precision, long travel and the tactile feel.

Which is good, for flying the huey and maxing collective for 40 seconds will blow your engine.
Something I have learned very recently...
 

Ian Skippy

Ian Skippy
Well, I'm joining the TWCS club. :) Was using A T-flight HOTAS + 16000m as primary stick, but all controllers have tons defects after 2000+ hours: primary fire, pip management, weapon group selection and a bunch of others are borked and dont work reliably any more. This topic pushed me towards the TWCS, I might keep the 16000m as secondary stick.
 

Hesperusss

H
Hi all,
I've bought this HOTAS in April 2017, I had great times playing Elite with it.
Very ergonomic, precise, a bit too stiff maybe on twisting, causing some wrist strain in long sessions.
For its price it's very good.
Today the bad news: the Z axis, the twist movement, works no more correctly.

Random inputs everywhere, all way on one side. Probably a potentiometer broke.

It cannot be repaired, as stated by Thrustmaster support (very fast in replies and helpful), after checking the working condition using their calibration tool.
Luckily in EU we have two years of warranty, being on 2nd year I have the legal warranty.

Bought on Amazon, they asked me if I wanted to replace it or receive a refund. Having it break after 1 year and 5 months it will probably break again soon or later.
I use the twist a lot, especially during combat situation, but with no excessive stress or playing like a crazy. I've treated it very well.
Unfortunately, despite the magnetic sensor in the joystick, potentiometer (I suppose the Z axis is managed by a pot) are more delicate and more prone to break.
So now I have to decide if I would buy another t16000m again or going to x56, which costs more (+100€) and I've read bad and good experiences with it.
Luckily I've got a bit tired of combat actually so I'll do some passenger, trading, exploration, which I can do with keyboard and mouse (to rest my wrist a bit :D)
Suggestion apreciated!
 

TorTorden_VR

T
Hesperusss said:
Hi all,
I've bought this HOTAS in April 2017, I had great times playing Elite with it.
Very ergonomic, precise, a bit too stiff maybe on twisting, causing some wrist strain in long sessions.
For its price it's very good.
Today the bad news: the Z axis, the twist movement, works no more correctly.

Random inputs everywhere, all way on one side. Probably a potentiometer broke.

It cannot be repaired, as stated by Thrustmaster support (very fast in replies and helpful), after checking the working condition using their calibration tool.
Luckily in EU we have two years of warranty, being on 2nd year I have the legal warranty.

Bought on Amazon, they asked me if I wanted to replace it or receive a refund. Having it break after 1 year and 5 months it will probably break again soon or later.
I use the twist a lot, especially during combat situation, but with no excessive stress or playing like a crazy. I've treated it very well.
Unfortunately, despite the magnetic sensor in the joystick, potentiometer (I suppose the Z axis is managed by a pot) are more delicate and more prone to break.
So now I have to decide if I would buy another t16000m again or going to x56, which costs more (+100€) and I've read bad and good experiences with it.
Luckily I've got a bit tired of combat actually so I'll do some passenger, trading, exploration, which I can do with keyboard and mouse (to rest my wrist a bit :D)
Suggestion apreciated!
Click to expand...

I have not heard of a single stick with twist that didn't break down in some way, usually in the 2-3 years also they would all create wrist problems, simply because the wrist isn't meant to bend like that.'

Honestly the only real solution is rudder pedals.
I would personally take a new Hotas on warranty, and take the €100 and look at some proper rudder pedals like the new https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Flight-Rudder-Pedals-Playstation/dp/B015PII6YI
 

Rojo Habe

Rojo Habe
I bought mine in November 2016. It's done close to a million light years and some of the switches are starting to wear out.

I think I've had my money's worth and would gladly buy another. When the right deal comes along, of course ;)
 

CMDR MAIN SEQUENCE

CMDR MAIN SEQUENCE
Hi guys, the trigger on my T.16000M FCS HOTAS has become increasingly unresponsive over the last few weeks and now it's quite annoying - I have to squeeze it quite hard to get a response and then sometimes I will get a double-input. The 2 year warranty will expire in November. I've tried squirting compressed air in there. Is there anything else I can do? I'm loath to open up the stick whilst it's still under warranty especially if there's a chance I do send it in (although I have previously opened up the throttle to re-grease, but I imagine the stick is more complex).
 

Wasp0

Wasp0
MAIN SEQUENCE said:
Hi guys, the trigger on my T.16000M FCS HOTAS has become increasingly unresponsive over the last few weeks and now it's quite annoying - I have to squeeze it quite hard to get a response and then sometimes I will get a double-input. The 2 year warranty will expire in November. I've tried squirting compressed air in there. Is there anything else I can do? I'm loath to open up the stick whilst it's still under warranty especially if there's a chance I do send it in (although I have previously opened up the throttle to re-grease, but I imagine the stick is more complex).
Click to expand...

I am no expert on the specific T&C's of your stick, but i would say by opening it up you will have already invalidated your warranty, especially if you did not use exactly the same grease they use. Have you checked the 'Tube' to see if anyone else has opened up this type of stick before.
 

CMDR MAIN SEQUENCE

CMDR MAIN SEQUENCE
Did a google search on this thread and found...

NascentChemist said:
I've heard that the micro switch for the primary fire button can get dirty. If you're brave enough to take the joystick apart you can clean it.
Click to expand...

NascentChemist said:
Here's a youtube video for a teardown. It's a bit long, but it has good hints. I found that the pin keeping the orange trigger piece is very difficult to remove without some kind of driver and hammer.
Click to expand...

Will watch the vid and see how easy it will be for me to break something :)
 

ExecutiveDysfunction

ExecutiveDysfunction
So I've received my HOTAS yesterday and while I'm having a little bit of trouble getting used to it I love the build quality and how it feels compared to my previous stick. I've been looking for ways to mount it and I have a next level racing stands which you can buy an optional flight kit for. so today I pulled the trigger on that and I can't find any reviews with this Hodis in the flight can pack so I will be sure to post pics once it arrives on Sunday.
 

DMC831

DMC831
I've been using my T16000 HOTAS setup in Elite for the past year while playing with a DK2 and I've had no issues, but I just upgraded to a CV1 and now my stick and throttle won't register in the game if I'm playing in VR (it seems to still work in 2D). My bindings are still there, and my computer sees my stick and throttle and etc etc, but for whatever reason it's not working inside of Elite if I'm in VR.

Has anyone experienced something similar? I've tried the obvious solutions but I may have missed some-- I've unplugged and plugged back in, I've restarted, checked for drivers, have opened the game via SteamVR and also Oculus, I've tried different USB ports... any obvious things I missed that I should try?

I've made sure the Elite window is on top and I'm focused on it, so it's not a situation where I'm in another window or something. I'm not sure if anyone tracks this thread, but I figure it's worth a try to ask for help.
 

DMC831

DMC831
Ozram said:
So rift is best with usb 3? How many does it need? I use a T16000m fcs with pedals and there’s a Vive coming my way next week.
Click to expand...

I believe Oculus suggests/needs 3 different USB 3s; one for the headset (which also connects to an HDMI), 2 for the two sensors that come with the Touch package, and they recommend using a USB 2.0 for the 3rd sensor (which came with a 16 foot cable extender) that ya buy separately to get roomscale.

Getting Oculus to agree that my sensor placement was okay took longer than expected, but once it works it works. I luckily have a bunch of USB 3.0 slots so I didn't have to find space for everything, but my T16000 setup ain't working yet in VR so maybe Rojo Habe is onto something.

Frontier wrote me back about my problem and I'm trying a few different things; if it works I'll be sure to mention my problem is solved in here and also which thingy fixed it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom