Hardware & Technical Thrustmaster T.16000M FCS HOTAS official thread
- Thread starter Henkka77
- Start date
How are your main fire trigger buttons everyone? My FCS was bought 12/2016 and now, after approx 1000 hrs in, my main fire trigger is showing signs of wear.
Sometimes it takes couple of trigger pulls that the game registers it. Sometimes it makes a double fire when you pull it only once.
Its not that annoying yet and it doesnt occur every time, but undoubtedly thats something which will get worse over time..
I dont think theres nothing i can do to that but to consider sending my FCS to retailer for warranty service..
Well, I am an elite Explorer. My combat ranks still is at harmless with zero kills. I have no idea how this trigger is supposed to even work.
Lol. Im an explorer also and i use that main trigger for ADS and selecting stuff in menus.
Lol. Im an explorer also and i use that main trigger for ADS and selecting stuff in menus.
Maybe it stopped working in protest. It wants you to know that it was made to blow stuff up.
How are your main fire trigger buttons everyone? My FCS was bought 12/2016 and now, after approx 1000 hrs in, my main fire trigger is showing signs of wear.
Sometimes it takes couple of trigger pulls that the game registers it. Sometimes it makes a double fire when you pull it only once.
Its not that annoying yet and it doesnt occur every time, but undoubtedly thats something which will get worse over time..
I dont think theres nothing i can do to that but to consider sending my FCS to retailer for warranty service..
I bought mine around the same time and I've had some instances of double fire recently. Can be annoying when FD are so daft as to put a destructive UI button and its confirmation UI button in the same position.
I've heard that the micro switch for the primary fire button can get dirty. If you're brave enough to take the joystick apart you can clean it.
I recently got the FCS kit with Pedals included and love it. I had to buy the USB adapter for the rudder pedals in order to code the pedal actions in the TARGET software. You can't access all the functions without the USB adapter.
I don't use the pedals for rudder but love the toe brakes. With TARGET you can make them share an axis so with full range throttle set you can have the right pedal as forward thrust and left pedal as reverse thrust. Let go of either or both and you have 0 thrust.
I can still use the hand throttle for just setting a cruise speed if it's a long in system trip and I want to do something else while I wait. If both the pedals and hand throttle share the same axis then you whichever control you used last takes over. Takes a little getting used before you stop using the hand throttle by accident.
Easily my best setup. I have X52, and CH combos plus Microsoft Force Feedback II. Before the FCS my favourite combo was CH Pro Throttle with FFB2. Didn't rate the X52 that highly even with a bunch of mods to fix design problems.
I don't use the pedals for rudder but love the toe brakes. With TARGET you can make them share an axis so with full range throttle set you can have the right pedal as forward thrust and left pedal as reverse thrust. Let go of either or both and you have 0 thrust.
I can still use the hand throttle for just setting a cruise speed if it's a long in system trip and I want to do something else while I wait. If both the pedals and hand throttle share the same axis then you whichever control you used last takes over. Takes a little getting used before you stop using the hand throttle by accident.
Easily my best setup. I have X52, and CH combos plus Microsoft Force Feedback II. Before the FCS my favourite combo was CH Pro Throttle with FFB2. Didn't rate the X52 that highly even with a bunch of mods to fix design problems.
SO, I just got my T 16000M joystick/throttle, looking forward to using it, but their website is down! Does anyone have backup copies of TARGET or the driver?
You don't need either. You're best off without TARGET. The driver adds a useful deazone to the throttle mini-stick, but that's all.
You only really need them if you want to program the rudder pedals or have too many input devices. ED currently supports 2 devices I think, TARGET combines all the components into one virtual controller.
Only reason I use TARGET is to program the rudder pedals because you can't access them for adding extra functionality. If your just using the throttle and joystick you just use the options in the game to set your preferred scheme up.
I recommend Joystick Curves for an external dead zone utility. Makes it almost as sensitive as a mouse. Especially the joysticks with HALL effect sensors. Link to the thread is below even though the thread itself is locked. Have no idea why, though.
https://forums.frontier.co.uk/showt...Appreciation-thread?highlight=Joystick+Curves
I don't suppose you've got a link to more details on how to do that?
Thank you all for the replies, and the link!
I've used this HOTAS for a while and really love it BUT...
Today I logged in and when I pushed the throttle forward, nothing happened. It was very weird, I heard the noise of the engine throttling up (ieagle), but the velocity gauge on the right of the hud did not move. Very odd. Haven't filed a bug report yet. Thought I'd stop here. Any insight?
Today I logged in and when I pushed the throttle forward, nothing happened. It was very weird, I heard the noise of the engine throttling up (ieagle), but the velocity gauge on the right of the hud did not move. Very odd. Haven't filed a bug report yet. Thought I'd stop here. Any insight?
Here's a youtube video for a teardown. It's a bit long, but it has good hints. I found that the pin keeping the orange trigger piece is very difficult to remove without some kind of driver and hammer.
For anyone having issue with the twist yaw, he shows the potentiometer for that. Just use a knife to pop open that box and clean the "lid" to help with ghost yaw. It's not a permanent fix, but it helps for a while.
[video=youtube;OYwo5eGzxeI]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OYwo5eGzxeI[/video]
It sounds like you were stuck somewhere. The speed didn't change on the gauge, but did a horizontal line go up and down as you moved your throttle? If it did, then you were stuck. When that happens, toggle your landing gear a couple of times. That will usually clear you of being stuck. If you heard the thruster throttling up, then the game was responding. But if the ship is stuck, that's the only response the game can give; well, that and the set speed line moving even though the actual speed will remain 0.
ED supports way more than that. I have the FCS HOTAS (that's two), and my G27 racing wheel, plus I have three axes mapped to Joystick Curves, so by my tally I'm using four devices.
TARGET combines three devices into one (if you have the rudder pedals) but this does have drawbacks, as you're then limited to only eight axes (the maximum DirectX supports per device). This may well be fine for a lot of people but the FCS HOTAS comes with a total of nine (not including pedals) which means you'll always have one that can never be used.
Sorry, It's actually a 4 USB controller limit that is supposed to be lifted in the new Beyond update. I bumped into it when I had my HOTAS with pedals, mouse and head tracker all set up in ED. But I use TARGET for the forward and reverse pedals and Opentrack for the headtracking so it's no longer a problem for me personally.
Yeah, I don't use the rudder part of the pedals and both the left hand throttle and toe pedals share the same axis in my setup. Works great.
Oh, Oculus Rift. does that make six?
Oculus rift uses it's own drivers that are autodetected by compatible games. The limit is only for devices mapped in the ED control settings. Opentrack uses the Oculus libraries for head tracking in ED too. Will all be a moot point after Beyond is released anyway. Hope it's soon, I just finished all the engineer leveling I wanted.