My current system has a side window but nearly no RGB. I didn't use any RGB fans since I didn't want the lighting and would hate to do the cable management for them. Also no RGB on the RAM and the motherboard has RGB disabled. That leaves the white Nvidia logo on the GPU. I can disable that with a third party app, but have actually considered disassembling it to unplug the cable for the RGB.. It's the only thing lighting up the inside of my PC and I wouldn't mind to have it all in darkness. Don't mind the subdued red on my keyboard and mouse nor the red backlighting of the monitor, which is basically all the RGB present in my system.
Building a new PC for Elite: Dangerous Odyssey (hardware discussion)
- Thread starter Alec Turner
- Start date
Sorry. I didn't mean to derail this into a "I hate RGB" thread. Sincere apologies 
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Same here. Apologies.Sorry. I didn't mean to derail this into a "I hate RGB" thread. Sincere apologies
Thanks for the headsup, I'll be careful with that then!
@Alec Turner
You should just dump your build and buy this instead:
Dream PCs Flagship 3XS Watercooled Gaming PCs - 3XS
Flagship 3XS Watercooled Gaming PCs Limited Edition range of Promotional PCswww.scan.co.uk
5600MT/s memory is amazingly out of place in such a build.
Much of the loop is purely decorative as well. Hard tubing is annoying to work with, the giant reservoirs don't serve much purpose, and opaque coolant conceals potential issues that defeat any utility in having transparent components in the first place. Of course, anyone buying this system is paying ten-thousand GBP extra for questionable aesthetics and they know it.
You can usually turn off the RGB controller in the UEFI setup.
Since pretty much all of these drives are limited in performance by the USB connection, it's often more economical to purchase an enclosure for a budget NVMe drive than to get a purpose-built external drive.
I am guessing this depends on where your market is as well as how long you are willing to wait and how much to shop around; but when I bought my T7, it was actually cheaper than a budget NVMe and an enclosure, and I had it the next day. What you're suggesting was actually my initial plan, and then I ran across the 2TB T7 on Amazon for 113 Euro and thought: Why bother?
(and yes, it is genuine and actually holds the promised amount of data)
Your build choice seems solid, if even a bit overkill.
Elite worked fine for me on a Vega 56/Amd 3700X, and now on a RX6800/Amd 5800X3D.
The only issue with the AMD cards for me was the orbit lines, they are a bit broken, but there is a patch for that: orbit lines shader fix
FWIW, I paid 90E for 1TB about 6 months ago, blazingly fast when connected to usb 3.2 gen 2. Seemed cheap enough not to bother with assembling something else. I use it to synchronize audio recordings (band practice) between 2 systems. I'm surprised every time I copy 3-4 GB and it's done in a matter of seconds. I'll be getting a few of these or similar for backup purposes. Not so much for the speed, but more for the convenience.
I'm sure there are plenty of situations where the prices are competitive and the purpose-built external is the easier option. The T7 does have pretty impressive sustained write speed-- rather important for transferring files--and it can be difficult to identify which budget internal SSDs also have this feature.
One of the things that's turned me off to purpose-built external SSDs is that they tend to be completely integrated...you can't shuck them and get a drive that can be moved to a different system or enclosure, because it's all one board. I break a USB port on an external mechanical drive, or the enclosure one of my M.2 SSDs are in and all I lose is a ten dollar enclosure. I break the port on a fully integrated external SSD and I need to dust off my soldering iron or I'm out the entire drive.
Well, matching an M2 enclosure with a SSD that doesnt get to 70-80°C while doing a full image backup can be tricky.
Eventually i went for an A-Data EC700G and an WD-SN570 2TB m2, which is one of the coolest running M2 ssd on the market (while also being surprisingly fast in gaming, for a budget dram-less ssd) - and overall it was at about the same price i could get a similar offer from Samsung - in our stores that Samsung T7 was around €150.
I might have gotten lucky with 113 Euro shipped. Right now, the T7 is 140 Euro for me on Amazon.
That’s almost exactly what I have in mine - a 1TB “came with the PC” M.2 drive in the primary slot, a 2TB M.2 I added when I started running low on space for games and then a 2TB HDD for documents, mp3s, etc.
if you read the follow up books by Arthur c clark he goes on to explain exactly what the monolith is
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While its not optimal you can run a 4080 with just 2 x 8 pin feeds. Not ideal and i certainly would not recommend it with any of the heavily overclocked models that pull more than the standard 320 watts. One solution potentially in your case would be running a 4080 on 2x 8pins with one of the 8 pins daisy chained into the 3rd 8pin slot, provided you have a psu from a highly regarded manufacturer with high quality cable and connectors that can handle the extra power load on one of the cables.
Generally speaking a single 8 pin connector is certified for 150 watts but most can actually handle upto 288 watts. Though would not want to put such a load on a single connector as you are risking a fire. 2 x 8 pins therefore can handle 300 watts with an additional 75 watts from the pcie express slot. The 3rd 8 pin is effectively wiggle room for overclocking and voltage spikes, which if not accommodated can cause card instability.
Re the 12 pin power connectors nvidia now have on their premium cards. You can get adaptors for them for older psu. Just make sure you get one compatible to your psu.
Note this from Corsair plugs 2 x 8 pin connectors into your power supply and converts to 1 x 12 pin for your gpu . These 12 pins are rated for upto 600 watts. Note that the 4080 founders edition uses one of these 12 pin connectors
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They don't, certainly not at the PSU side of things.
The NVIDIA adapters require three or four cables for 450w or 600w because the official spec of the PCI-E eight pin connector is 150w, which is an extremely conservative figure from two decades ago.
Electrically speaking, the six thicker +12v terminals in two quality 8-pin connectors should have more current carrying capacity than the six smaller +12v terminals in a 12VHPWR connector rated for 600w, and most do. This is why many PSU makers include 600w 12VHPWR cables that attach to two eight pin connectors on the PSU...it's cheaper and safer than using an actual 12VHPWR connector.
I haven't had any issues pulling even 650w though two 8-pin connectors on my various PSUs.
None of the 4000 series parts will ever draw more than about 10w from the slot, without hardware modification. All the major VRM components are fed only by the 12VHPWR/12V-2x6 connector.
This is a quick run through a hot running area of EDO on an uncapped, watercooled, RTX 4090 with a moderate OC:
Peak power through the 12VHPWR connector was 612 watts. Peak power through the PCI-E slot was 6.6 watts.
I'm beginning to see why you need a quantum supercomputer from the future to play this game.. I don't understand it, but I do see it (and hear it and feel it as my gaming laptop turns into a jet engine with superheated exhaust).
Maybe I'll get a supercomputer too and hook it up to my furnace ductwork and use it to heat my home this winter, LOL.
Maybe I'll get a supercomputer too and hook it up to my furnace ductwork and use it to heat my home this winter, LOL.
setting it to bit coin mine when not in use an infinitum qubit beyondAI design should do nicely just ignor it if it mentions1x4x9 or 42 obsessions with the number 3 or go forth(being the 4 states) and multiply and run far faraway if it says In the beginning there was darkness, and the darkness was without form and void and don't turn around if schrodinger's cat has anything to do with it as religion & singularity's may ensue
spollier alert https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monolith_(Space_Odyssey)
Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h73PsFKtIck&ab_channel=ms
an infinitum qubit beyondAI design should do nicely just ignor it if it mentions1x4x9 or 42 obsessions with the number 3 or go forth(being the 4 states) and multiply and run far faraway if it says In the beginning there was darkness, and the darkness was without form and void and don't turn around if schrodinger's cat has anything to do with it as religion & singularity's may ensuespollier alert https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monolith_(Space_Odyssey)
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No you dont, your 2019* gaming laptop should easily do a minimum of 30fps in 1080p, default high profile, in a CZ (probably more, like 40-45)
Which i regard as playable.
*(iirc we shared a similar config for a while: i7-9750h, gtx1660ti 85w tgp, 16gb ram - and that config used to get like 45 fps in concourse back then in 2021 - U4-U5 period @1080p / high. It should do better now)
Technically 5 fps Elite on Commodore 64 is "playable", just like VHS tapes are "watchable", but 30 fps without any sort of motion smoothing is not my idea of an enjoyable experience these days. And yes, I admit I've been spoiled by a smooth 60 fps, just like I've been spoiled by HD TV over the years. I suspect I'm not alone, otherwise why does Alec need this monster computer "for Odyssey"? Maybe you should be giving him your lecture, LOL.
But on a serious note, it's too bad there isn't a version of motion smoothing for video cards like there is for image scaling (FSR). I actually find 30 fps with good motion smoothing to be acceptable for a lot of games. I'd much rather have this than the checkboard "fuzziness" that FSR brings. Maybe instead of buying a super computer like Alec, I'll buy an old CRT monitor, which comes with built-in motion smoothing thanks to the phosphorous. I wonder if an old plasma TV would provide a similar effect...