Community Event / Creation DIY Controller and Throttle

Cataclysm72 · Dec 3, 2015

Last few days I didn't make much progress. I am tired, and I am happy to use my spare time actually playing Elite!!

But I did make some nice updates to the seat.

First, I replaced the weak MDF floorboard with a panel of 'powerplex', as well as the back panel just below the central switch board. The powerplex is extremely solid, looks like real wood which gives is a good quality, about 1cm thick. The weight of the powerplex makes the entire frame feel (and look) much more solid.

Secondly, I modified the firmware of my USB devices so the leds get a nice animation when the PC boots or goes to sleep. USB devices usually stay powered when the PC shuts down, but now i can perform some nice stuff on boot! I haven't yet finished up all the animations but at least the concept did prove that it can be done.

Finally, I bought myself an in game set of Paint Jobs for my ASP.

With a cockpit looking this good I can't skimp out on the outside looks now can I?

Soban · Dec 4, 2015

Cataclysm274 said:
no screw, nothing designed as such, just good luck and friction.

Yes it looks crap. But the rough surface pattern gives some nice friction to the button. They were indeed 3D-printed. In fact they were rough prototype prints, at about 0.3mm scale instead of the 0.075 scale my printer can do. I never bothered to sand them down because they fit quite nicely. I actually forgot about redoing them, thank you for reminding me!

Thanks for answering, and you're welcome for the reminder

Again i'm coming with some questions :
Wich material did you use for the handles/stick and for the moving part of it, at the base (specifically that part, plus the stick itself) :

Was it printed too, and if so, are you happy with the solid-ness of the thing ?
Do you think it can handle long hours of simulation ?

Cataclysm72 · Dec 4, 2015

Soban said:
Wich material did you use for the handles/stick and for the moving part of it, at the base (specifically that part, plus the stick itself) :

Everything you see on that design is 3D-printed with PLA. That was before my move to PETG. I did do a few iterations on some of the parts. The current designs feel good enough.

Do you think it can handle long hours of simulation ?

I have no idea. I don't think it has anything to do with the number of hours, but more with the way you can control yourself from going 'CaveMan-Mode' on the stick when the going gets tough

It is all a matter of lever action. If I pull with my full weight on the top of the joystick it will snap no doubt about it. This isn't steel. And if the gimbal isn't going to snap some other bit will. "A chain is only as strong as its weakest link".

Currently, no 3D-printed part will be as strong as a CNC cut piece of aluminium if you catch my drift.

Soban · Dec 4, 2015

Well, on the durability of the 3d printed pieces I just realised how silly my question was...
I mean, it's *3D printed*, by your very own printer. So I guess spare part for repairs are not an issue, even if the pieces go broken or if the surface of one piece is "working" too much...
Wich lead to a question : I read that both PLA and PETG are used as both Injection molding, or thermo-sculpted.
Is the repeated friction of the parts in gimbal or base-of-stick can be an issue?
Did you use some Teflon coating on the moving parts?

Cataclysm72 · Dec 4, 2015

There's no plastic-on-plastic friction except for the centering plate and that has been sanded down. Some teflon coating would be helpful i think. The moving parts are connected with bolts and washers so that should not be an issue.

All your questions are valid, but most of the issues i haven't given that much thought really. I just solved them as i went along.

Cataclysm72 · Dec 12, 2015

Some things look better with a bit of paint:

Cataclysm72 · Dec 13, 2015

Today's work. Recut the panel mounts for better measurements and added a sweet little decal. Starting to look like a little blue christmas tree here!

Buzzsaaw · Dec 14, 2015

Looks great!..

Now.. you have to add an ejector and a gravity compensator.

Cataclysm72 · Dec 16, 2015

Buzzsaaw said:
Looks great!..

Now.. you have to add an ejector and a gravity compensator.

Actually now that I have upgraded my license to Horizons i'm noticing i may need to add a few more buttons

Cataclysm72 · Dec 25, 2015

Merry Christmas everybody

BigF · Dec 25, 2015

Excellent build you have there.

I'm doing something custom myself. I have got fed up with the retail sticks and their ability to wear out, added to the fact that none of them seem to have enough buttons.

Cataclysm72 · Dec 25, 2015

BigF said:
Excellent build you have there.

I'm doing something custom myself. I have got fed up with the retail sticks and their ability to wear out, added to the fact that none of them seem to have enough buttons.

Thanks!

My last design is holding up quite well, but still i have the feeling that the 3D printed gimbal may break one of these days. I am already thinking of another iteration with better design and hall effect sensors. I've learned a lot over these past few months, and the gimbal was one of the first components.

Cataclysm72 · Dec 27, 2015

Update:

This nice day I worked on an updated gimbal design for my joystick. The first version (3rd picture) had several weaknesses which I solved by moving the vertical segment a the center piece. The design is much stronger because it clamps a metal tube between 2 solid parts all along the shaft length (the actual aluminium tube is not shown in the design). Secondly, the axles are now rigged with proper flanged ball bearings. Last but not least I swapped out the potentiometers for Hall Effect sensors.

exploded view

old version

Oheck · Dec 30, 2015

By the end of this i'm expecting to see a fully built cobra around this seat/setup. chip chop!

Cataclysm72 · Dec 30, 2015

Oheck said:
By the end of this i'm expecting to see a fully built cobra around this seat/setup. chip chop!

Yeah there's no stopping me, as today I present throttle assembly v2:

Old design:

Again, much thicker parts, use of metal stick, hall effect sensors and a tension ring. 3D printer is doing overtime!

Cataclysm72 · Jan 1, 2016

Got them A1302 Hall Effect sensors working pretty well. The biggest issue was getting them properly mounted.

Cataclysm72 · Jan 4, 2016

Yes yes yes! Just installed the new and improved gimbal and throttle mechanics based on hall effect sensors! Other than a reversed input (up became down) and a short recalibration they work perfectly!

Very happy about the results!

BigF · Jan 4, 2016

Would you say they are more accurate than pots ?

Jypson · Jan 4, 2016

Cataclysm274 said:
Yes yes yes! Just installed the new and improved gimbal and throttle mechanics based on hall effect sensors! Other than a reversed input (up became down) and a short recalibration they work perfectly!

Very happy about the results!

Great to hear! So when are you ramping up production to fill some orders?

Cataclysm72 · Jan 4, 2016

BigF said:
Would you say they are more accurate than pots ?

They should be, on the long run anyway. The sensors have no moving parts and there is no pickup or center oint to wear out with heavy use. If you want better resolution, it all depends on the electronics. I'm using the built-in ADC from thr microchip which has a 10-bit resolution. Not using the entire range i come down to about 450 stops (225-687 or so). As i wrote somewhere earlier, my pilote skills are not good enough to notice a difference between 45 or 46 roll or pitch. For the needy, one could always add a custom 16-bit analog-digital converter and settle once and for all.

Jypson said:
Great to hear! So when are you ramping up production to fill some orders?

that all depends on the proposed sum

it'll probably stay what it is now: a one off. It took me well over 6 months for the entire build! I may not have the energy to go mass production. It would have to be cut aluminium to be honest.